Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - OD Blinking / No Power / Truck Won't Go
Jan 13, 2015
I have a 2003 F250 5.4 auto trans and I live in Minnesota where it has been -15 and my truck won't go. It has only half power it acts like its cutting out and it won't even hardly move in Drive if I put it in 1st or 2nd it will go or reverse but the engine is only half power the OD button is flashing the check engine light came on and I pulled the codes and there is 7 of them. I think its electrical issue but don't know where to start! Here are the codes, P0443, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0135, AND (P1747) which my book doesn't go that high?
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My 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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Truck : 2000 F250 XLT A/T 6.8L v10 4x4
Issue : O/D off light is flashing on the shift lever. In a drive gear (R, OD, D2, D1) there is very low power when giving it gas, more so from a stop. In P and N, I can rev the motor with no obvious issues. In O/D, I can't even get forward momentum going from a stop when on a slight incline. When on flat ground and in O/D, flooring the gas only gets me going a few MPH and RPMs don't go above 1500ish. When selecting 1st or 2nd, the truck still struggles a bit from a stop but does get up and going.
What happened leading up to the issue : I was on the freeway driving about 80MPH without cruise control se,t and with O/D on as usual, when the blinking O/D off light caught my attention. Not knowing at the time that this was a transmission problem light, I started pushing and holding on the O/D on/off button to try and get it to stop. Probably about a minute later, I realized I was losing speed even when giving more throttle so pulled over to the shoulder. I shut the truck off and restarted it, noted the Service Engine Soon light was now on, then I put it in O/D and gave it gas but only got going a couple MPH which it sounds like the engine was choking/struggling. I then tried D1 and D2 and, while still struggling a bit from stop, was able to accelerate up to 35+ MPH.
OBDII Codes:
P0743
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Circuit Electrical
P0750
Shift Solenoid A
P0755
Shift Solenoid B
P1747
Pressure Control
Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0443
EvaPorative Emission
System Purge Control
Valve Circuit
P0135
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 1. Sensor 1)
P0155
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 2. Sensor 1)
Troubleshooting : Transmission fluid check looks good (full and red)
Checked fuse 23 of the Central Junction Box
Held a ground wire to bottom of Transmission pan and to the frame while I started the truck, O/D light still flashing
Wiring looks good coming to the plug on the driver side of the transmission
More info:
- No "Service Engine Soon" or blinking O/D off light prior to all this happening.
- I don't believe I'm getting 1st gear. I don't recall if I got my speed up to 30+ MPH while in D1, but while in D2 I never noticed a shift from stop to ~35MPH. At 35MPH, my RPMs were around 2500 I believe.
- While cruising at 35MPH in D2, shifting to O/D results in lost power. I had to stay in D2 all the way home.
To do (I believe):
1. Check shift solenoids (looking for DIY info)
2. Check shift solenoid pack (looking for DIY info)
3. Check TCC solenoid (looking for for DIY info)
It sounds like there are a couple shift solenoids to check as well as a solenoid pack (how best to check these out, I'm still looking for)?
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My truck is a 2000 f350 with a 7.3 init but when I shut it off and open the doors the power is still on in the truck and ac blows then shuts off. Relays are going crazy and I can not find the problem.
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I have a 03 F250 5.4 4x4 auto, last year I had a problem with the truck shutting off randomly. So after doing all the dumb stuff and research I ended up concluding that the FP relay was acting up and my understanding is that, it is located in the fuse block. So not wanting to replace it I wired up my own relay next to the safety switch in the passenger side kick panel and it has been fine ever since. I did put a new pump in it (Cali emissions) Now to present day-
Over the past month my truck would have a slight hesitation problem when accelerating on the highway/up grade. The issue was it would go away for a while when you would shut the truck off and be good for a while. Well then it started happening all the time.
I knew I was do for a tune up (215,000) so I did all the plugs, COP's, fuel filter and a PM. It got a lot better but was still there at the top end. So after doing a lot of research I found a lot of people having the same issues, so for testing purposes I cut the CAT out and installed a section of flex pipe. (Iwill be installing the cat back in)
So last night I take it out and its even worse...I went don to my buddy's place and hooked up a Versus and got no codes at all, no misfires on the counter..absolutely nothing. So I did what I should have done in the beginning and duct taped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and took off.
At idle I have 30 or so PSI, and when it was fine it would stay around that, when it started acting up it would drop to 5-2psi under load and go back to 30 or so PSI at idle. The other thing is now I only have 1/4 tank of gas.
What I am concluding is that the pump is getting hot and weak, because when I had a full fuel tank it was better and now I have less fuel to cool the pump and it is happening faster. Should I just throw another new pump in it? Or go after a voltage problem to the pump?
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I recently bought a 2003 f350 7.3, I ordered a tuner for it and tried installing it, at one point while the ECM was still connected I did something and it sparked. Then the powertrain relay (302) started clicking really fast. It clicked in the on position. I switched it with another and it was also clicking. So since I sparke the ECM I figured I messed it up. I ordered another one and it's doing the same thing. Then I pulled fuse 45 (which was good) and put it back in. When I turned truck to on position it wouldn't click anymore, but it still won't start... What it could be? OV ruled out the ECM, powertrain relay (302) and fuse 45, I don't know what else to check.
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2003 E-550 7.3L with IDM codes clear all code, do in injector buzz test P1276 and P1275. Start truck and SES light comes on. shut off truck code IDM code go to KOEF and have P1272, P1273, P1275, P1276. just replaced valve cover harness ohm wires to IDM put new IDM in. Truck shuts off while going down highway, turn key off then back on an usually starts on it own ....
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2003 f250 crewcab 6.0 auto 4x4. I all of a sudden started feeling a vibration under the truck near the back when I accelerate and when I let off the gas no other time. No noises or clanking just vibration. I can wiggle the driveshaft inside the carrier bearing do you think that could be it or is it the rear end.
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I am trying to diagnose a problem with a friends 2002 f350 7.3L truck. the engine has approx. 140,000 miles and is all stock, no programming or aftermarket parts. Anyhow, he said driving down the road the other day the engine all of a sudden lost power and the truck wouldn't go any faster than 45mph. he said taking off from a stop sign, the truck has no power and takes forever to get up to 45mph. after this issue began, he has changed the fuel filter & screen, air filter and fuel pump. The check engine light if OFF, no active fault codes.
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I have a 2001 250 Super Duty. I am having an intermittent issue with the electrical system and transmission. I don't drive this vehicle very much so it sits for 7-14 days at a time.
Previously I had the od light flashing and had the transmission solenoid replaced. A few weeks ago I decided to drive it to the corner store. As I arrive home the od light starts flashing and the transmission starts shifting funny. I pull into my parking spot and turn the truck off. I sensed the shut off was weird so I tried to start the truck. NO POWER! None! I go back to the truck a few days later and it starts up without an issue.
Approx. 20 miles later it starts again. This time I have to jump the battery. I ran the truck and it drove without issue. Again a couple weeks later it starts in again with the light flashing and electrical dying. What it may be? I'm probably going to get rid of the truck as I can;t justify to myself to keep dumping money into it.
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I recently bought a 2003 F350 super duty dually automatic transmission 6.0 deisel 4x4. The 4x4 is not working. with the hubs in auto when i flip the switch to 4x4 high nothing happens.The same with 4x4 low putting the truck in neutral. I can only find 2 fuses using the owners manual that says anything about 4x4 and both of them check out good. Also the owners manual says when i turn on the key I should see a 4x4 light and a low range light momentarily. Neither of these lights are showing up. I don't hear any clicking or any noise of any kind when trying the 4x4.It acts like an electrical issue but not sure where to start.
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Here in the last week or so I have noticed what seems like loss of power in my 04 F250. When I get on the gas it doesn't seems to respond like it used to. When I turn off the truck i can smell diesel a little bit. could it just be a clogged injector, bad plugs or what?
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I am working on a 2006 f450 6.0l. My problem is when I take key out of the ignition the power stays on in truck. Radio stays on and windows. I swapped out relays checked door jam switch I am stuck. Looking for wiring diagrams so I can trace the wire.
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I have a 2009 6.4L F250 with 153k miles on it. Yesterday I drove from downtown Dallas north to McKinney (about 40 miles) and truck was running fine. Left approx. 3 hours later for dinner and the check engine light came on and truck ran very sluggish with hardly any power. Had it checked at auto zone today and got the P040D Exhaust Gas Recirculation temperature A circuit high DTC. I can get the part but not sure if I can replace it myself.
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Can get up to speed about 55-60 in my 2003 f250 6.0 4x4 truck and hit the brakes hard and the pedal gets hard almost like you cut the truck off and the truck doesn't stop well I can let off the pedal and hit it again hard and it works like it should. Also when it does this the power steering doesn't work. I was on an exit ramp and almost wrecked when I exited off the interstate I hit the brake pretty hard and couldn't steer I let off the brakes then hit them again and it worked fine and so did my steering. It would seem that the two are connected somehow. What's wrong?
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
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