Just bought 2 new batteries as one was toast, and the 7.3 was really hard to start. After installing started like a new truck..This morning temp was 54 and would not start after several attempts, trys to run but after a few seconds stops. Just bought and looks like a new solonoid had been installed. What should I check??
2003 F-350 7.3
I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
View 14 RepliesI pulled the battery cables this weekend to install a flatbed on my 02 f350, I did do some welding on the frame of the flatbed during install and the bed was in contact with the truck frame which is why i removed the batt cables in the first place, now after my project is finished i have reconnected batts only to have my gauges bounce around and an audible clicking under the hood when I try to start, gauges bounce back and forth several times, odometer comes on slowly.
2002 f350 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto
I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
I have a 2006 f350 superduty 6.0l diesel and if one of the batteries are bad will it drain the good battery...had them tested and one tested good but I keep having to charge them both
View 2 RepliesI was told that I have to disconnect both batteries if I want to remove my seats by a car-stereo place. Is this true? They said it was because of the air bag sensors.
Gotta remove the center seat to get an amp out from under there and to do that, you have to remove or at least loosen both front seats.
Is there a way to do this without disconnecting both batteries?
The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
How many Volts available at plug for charging FW batteries, and what can be don to trick alternator in to keep charging when truck batteries full, install larger wires? From alternator or truck battery, if yes which battery. 2015 F350 Lariat 200 alternator.
View 14 RepliesGot 01 F350, 7.3
Started having issues with starter bogging down my batteries. Slow crank, it would catch anyway and runs great. I have spare used starter in the garage, threw that on and it cranks fast, but occasionally just free spins half way thru the cranking.
My question is, can I make one good starter from these two? Monday AM buyer is coming to get my truck, and I don't want to have to buy brand new starter if I can avoid it, but I want him to have reliable used starter.
What causes free spinning (not flex plate related), and what causes power drag and slow crank? I was thinking throw solenoid from fast starter onto slow one, since slow one doesn't spin out but it bogs down my voltage?
2000 f350 7.3 .. I'm having a horrible time trying to figure out why my truck is draining down the batteries. I can charge my batteries over night and put hem in and the truck will run for a few hours but then it dies completely. The alternator seems to be running really hot afterward like it is being over worked. I put in 2 different alternators and 2 new batteries and it didn't fix the issue.
I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
I drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
View 8 RepliesMy truck ran and drove then I changed my Steering Gearbox. After all that, I went to go start it, the trucked cranked and the batteries died. Hooked up the charger then and nothing, No start no crank. F250 2006 diesel 6.0 ...
View 14 RepliesOn my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
today I went out to start the F-250 2003 6.0L, and since I have a head cold and i was supposed to go to some job meeting and there's this weird beeping from a smoke detector in my house I can't turn off and it's keeping me awake= I was a total dip you know what and cranked the truck without warming up the glow plugs. So now it won't start. I don't know EXACTLY if that's why, or what. The batteries are fine. There don't appear to be any wires that jiggled loose. I drove home just fine last night.
I don't want to keep cranking it, obviously. Could this be because I forgot to turn the key and warm up the glow plugs? It's not that cold out, but, I know sometimes with my VWs you really had to do it no matter what.
Given that I may have made this stupid mistake, what are my options now? I don't smell diesel when I open the hood. Should I just wait a while, or should I try to open something up, or what?
I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change. Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect a battery and just clicking from under dash no start ?????? not a battery, won't even jump. The battery is good, power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
View 3 RepliesI have had this truck for about 3 weeks now, and twice on hot days (95F) it wouldn't start. Both times I had not driven the truck that day, so this would be a "cold start." No "idiot lights" came on to give me any indications. The Haynes Manual does me no good on this. Other than this issue, the truck runs and drives great.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauges were acting odd, and clicking under dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change
Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not battery, wont even jump
I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect the battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not a battery, won't even jump Battery is good, the power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 with 157,000 mile. Left the house last week and got about a mile down the road when I realized I had forgotten something. Pulled off to turn around and had no power to get back onto the road. RPMs wouldn't go over about 1500. Finally got it on the road and it completely shut off. Was able to get it home and have been tinkering with it. Stats from Scangauge are as follows:
Key on not cranking.
IPR 14.81%
FICM 47.6-48.0
Sync=0
ICP 32
Data while cranking.
IPR 43-47%
FICM 38-42
Sync=1
ICP 1532
I'm leaning towards a bad FICM but the ICP pressure seems to be high to me.
03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
I have a 2003 Super Duty 6.0. The trouble started almost all at once. It started fine, then I drove it for a while and on hot start, it cranked for a long time before starting. This went on for a few days, then today it wouldn't restart even when cool after not being driven for hours. I have a code P2285 and code P2285 P that has been on for a month or so. I know that the P2285 is the ICP. I don't know and can't find out what the "P" is at the end of the code. Anyways, I want to repair it myself. I have experience doing pretty major repairs, so it doesn't scare me. The problem is I am new to the diesel world. So come one and come all with possible scenarios and I will Go right down the list.
View 3 Replies