Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Low Boost Inconsistently?
Sep 3, 2015
I have a 2003 f250 with a 6.0l that at random will only build 11 psi of boost and throws a low boost input code. The egr is disconnected but not removed. Ive checked the map sensor line and tube and replaced the sensor itself. The truck also has an air raid intake. Other than that it's stock. Seriously sometimes it runs perfect for a week than will be back to only 11 psi for a day. I'm not sure if it matters but it seems that it more commonly has the issue when I'm running the air conditioning.
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it).
Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
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So recently i blew a seal in my steering gear box. I replaced the unit with a reman and per napa put in power steering fluid. I am pretty sure i was supposed to use atf (my dumb fault for not researching that) so now my question is whats the correct way to flush the system? Also what fluid should go back in the system? This is a non hydro boost setup. Setup is a 2002 f350 v10.
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ok this is my first diesel ever its an 01 7.3 powerstroke 250 4x4 . with 4 inch exhaust and used to have a programmer on it but it is supposedly back to stock. so I can be driving say in 4th gear and just hit the on button for cruise control without cruise being on and my boost will go from like 15 to 30lbs pretty quickly.... why on earth would it do this the previous owner was an old man who pulled horse trailers and had no clue why either ???
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I may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
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2006 F-250 6.0... I'm getting a P0470 error code and no boost, The unison ring is free and clear, the Turbo will not create boost till about 2000 RPM on the road. If I unplug the VGT there is no change in the turbo.
When the vehicle is started there is no tone change in the exhaust. This just started after I replaced a dummy plug in the oil rail. I checked all the connectors as well. I cleaned the EBP and tube.
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I drive an 08 f-350 with 120k no tune or deletes..(yet). I was driving home yesterday when I all of a sudden I have a lack and power. I then notice i have no boost at all. I heard an exhaust leak and instantly checked my boots on inter-cooler pipes....
After farther inspection, the bolt fairy came and I am missing some bolts on my up pipe where it meets turbo. Is this break in vacuum system the reason I'm having no boost? What is easiest way to get to up pipes without removing cab? Where did the bolts go? I got to get this fixed because I need truck to get around town.
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2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
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I've had a large leak from somewhere in my power steering/brake boost system (the whole reservoir gone in under a week) and I want to finally get to the bottom of it. Instead of paying a mechanic labor, I figured I'll look at it myself. So I got under it and I think that the leak is coming from the power steering gearbox, or a line that goes to it, but how to figure out which. How to diagnose this HydroBoost leak on my 6.4L? Here are some pictures ....
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I'm have a 2011 6.7, 180,000. I have noticed a high pitched whistle, not an turbo whine, that disappears after the boost drops to less that the first mark on the gauge 5-10psi??? It stays consistent in tone, the mileage is good, power is good normal 6.7!!.
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I've had an ongoing issue with my fuel gauge reading incorrectly, and now I'm trying to fix it! Basically, it will change all over the place while I'm driving (not erratically, but definitely moves occasionally). I recently fixed my overhead display, but the "miles to empty" display doesn't seem to be very consistent. It will read 450 miles to empty, and then the next time I look at it, it will have dropped 100 miles or something (after minimal driving).
So I'm wondering where I need to begin looking to fix this problem. I've replaced the dash cluster using Circuit Board Medics, so I'm fairly confident that's not the issue. I've read that it can be the fuel pump or the fuel tank sender, but how to check if these are actually the problem or how much time it will take. Luckily, I've never run out of fuel and been stranded, but I need to fix this or it's only a matter of time!
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I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
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I brought my truck band new in 2003. My mechanic said to me he just replaced my ABS sensor on the passenger side of the truck. Funny thing is I never knew I had ABS all this time. So I drove home , about 1 hour away from my mechanic ,I notice the ABS light would come on than go out, than come back on, than go back out??? I never saw this light before in all my years driving the truck.
When the light came on, my truck would pull to the right and make the sound like the ABS was applied when I braked, same noise as in my little car makes when I stop hard. When the light would be off and I applied the brake, my truck would stop normal. The way I am used to it.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 6.0 it's srw lariat edition it has Manual hubs but electronic 4x4 switch I have changed all fuses and relays but still the light won't come on I've tried manually locking the hubs and still nothing....
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So I have a 2003 6.0L Powerstroke 1 ton. I just replaced the starter thinking the solenoid was the problem. But my luck it wasn't. I turn the key and the ding stops and it's quiet. Dash lights go off. I have the engine light and water in fuel light on. ABS is on I think aswell. I've run out of options.
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today I went out to start the F-250 2003 6.0L, and since I have a head cold and i was supposed to go to some job meeting and there's this weird beeping from a smoke detector in my house I can't turn off and it's keeping me awake= I was a total dip you know what and cranked the truck without warming up the glow plugs. So now it won't start. I don't know EXACTLY if that's why, or what. The batteries are fine. There don't appear to be any wires that jiggled loose. I drove home just fine last night.
I don't want to keep cranking it, obviously. Could this be because I forgot to turn the key and warm up the glow plugs? It's not that cold out, but, I know sometimes with my VWs you really had to do it no matter what.
Given that I may have made this stupid mistake, what are my options now? I don't smell diesel when I open the hood. Should I just wait a while, or should I try to open something up, or what?
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I bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
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Yesterday my transmission on my work truck decides to fail. 2003 Ford F350 7.3 diesel auto with 4wd, 85k
Started the truck to allow it to warm up. We have been getting 38 to 45 degree weather. Proceeded to drive the truck for about 8 miles and come up to a red light and stopped. When the light changes to green, I hit the accelerator and the motor just free revs. Look down to make sure that the truck is in drive. No go.
I did check the following, I have no leaks whats so ever. I checked the auto tranny oil level and that was fine. The check engine light did not come on. I checked to make sure that the 4wd system was not engaged nor sitting in neutral. No warning signs or noises, the tranny was pulling normal up until I stopped,' All gears are showing the same signs. When you move the gear selection to all the other gears, it seems as if it's disconnected.
Before when I changed from drive gear to reverse gear I would place my foot on the brake and change to a different gear. You would get a slight hesitation knowing the gear was selected. Now when I move the gear I do not get anything. This has me baffled. I really like this truck and has been pretty much been trouble free.
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I have a 2003 6.0 Auto that has an intermittent non cranking issue. Once it does crank it fires right up. Usually when it doesn't crank, I just keep trying the ignition until finally something connects and it will begin to crank and then start. Sometimes I can try it twice, other times I may sit there for 5 minutes fighting with it. My only issue is, I need to get this problem fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.
I don't think it is the ignition itself. When I am attempting to crank I can see the window switch lights and other things going off when I crank it which I though was normal when the starter is operating.
My first thought is the transmission range sensor which I am trying to locate. I looked on the transmission itself which seemed to make sense but I wasn't seeing anything familiar. Someone hinted it might be under the dash above the brake pedal but I am not seeing anything jumping out at me.
I also question the starter itself, but I hear no noise coming from it at all when the problem shows itself. No clunk or anything. Which makes me think something is causing the circuit to not function properly.
The other thought I had is a possibility in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a bad ground on one of the batteries? I have a brand new factory positive aux cable so I think I can scratch that off the list. The batteries are also charged as well, but cannot rule out the possibility that maybe one is bad since I did not install them. But I can make sure they are both charged, and the issue remains. Where I should check?
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I've got a 2003 350 7.3, with the zf6, approx 225000. I've been chasing a vibration that can be felt in the whole truck for quite a while. Feels like a wheel bearing danm near shot. But after replacing both wheel bearings and making over the whole front end it didn't go away. So I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing cause it was getting bad anyway. The vi ration is still there so I checked the harmonic balancer and it was bad so I replaced that. Still no dice. I know that it's coming from the trans, you can hear it in when jacked up and running in gear. Shifts fine in all gears. But the vibration/ clunking is there in all gears and it's getting bad. It feels like a bearing going out. Could it be input shaft bearing or pilot?
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