I am working on a 2003 7.3 truck that I am having trouble starting, but once it is started runs well. I have installed manual gauges to both the low and high pressure pumps. The low is running 40 at an idle and 50 at 2000 rpms. The high is running 500 at an idle and 1200 at 2000 rpms. The low doesn't show pressure while cranking. Would you say the low or high pressure pump is bad?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
I have searched through the site but have not found anything like the problem I'm having. I have a 2003 F250 5.4. Three weeks ago I attempted to start my truck and it just cranks. The fuel pump was not coming on. I left the truck over night and the next morning the truck starts with no issues. It ran normally for the next three weeks then the same thing happened again. Towed to the mechanic but the truck started up and ran. It shows no codes after both no starts and both times ran fine the next day. When running fuel pressure is where it should be.
View 3 RepliesI just replaced my fuel pump to avoid another tow truck ride and now my fuel gauge is off. I filled up the truck today and the fuel gauge is only showing half a tank. I turned the truck on and off several times to try to reset it, but that didn't work.
Truck is a 2003 with the 5.4.
2003 f350 5.4... Is the fuel pump relay behind the radio? Under hood? Or built in the fuse panel and unserviceable?
View 14 Replies2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
Suspect I have a bad fuel pump. I checked for power thru the Inertia Switch. When I first energize the ignition I receive 12v after a couple seconds it drops to 7v. Is this normal? I checked at the connector to pump module and see the same reading. I swapped fuel pump relay and same readings. Just want to makew sure I dont have some other issue before doing pump.
View 2 Replies2014 f250 - tires call for 75 fronts, 80 rears. I have been running 60 in all four corners for 6 of the 7 months I have owned the truck. Just turned 8000 miles and yesterday morning the low tire pressure light came on. Checked tires and all good. What might be happening?
View 11 RepliesI am updating my efforts at diagnosing this.... The antifreeze never seemed to lose any fluid..... The truck lost all oil pressure and after draining the oil, It seemed to have chunks of ice in the pan ! (not anti-freeze then right ? ) The oil was totally slimmed up like a milk shake...... I pulled the oil cooler and took it to a radiator shop who pressure tested it and said no good news>>> No leaks >>> no easy fix..... Is there any way snow or rain water can get past the intake manifold and into the valley? I got a snap-on SVT cooling system pressure tester. The system holds 10 lbs for man hour without loosing a pound, while running under pressure the gauge does not fluctuate (The truck runs GREAT sounds like a nascar). I just did a valve and chain job 2 seasons ago (think I do good work like I give a rip about my own stuff )I put the right stuff gasket sealer around all the water jacket port on the head gasket....... Is there any other way water can get in this thing ? I am going to change the oil again,add sea foam and start driving it...
View 6 RepliesWent to leave for work this morning & got a "low tire pressure" warning...checked at work (isn't it always the last tire you check?), going to have to keep an eye on the left rear..was down to 45
with all the money we spend on these rigs, why can't put in a tpms system that would allow us to see WHICH tire is low?
Any aftermarket system that allows monitoring of INDIVIDUAL pressure? (ultimately, it'd be nice to get a 4 axle system that would "communicate" with the trucks (very basic) system, but also allow monitoring of my RV axles as well)
Carb rebuild and tune-up on my 370 and took for a test run. All of a sudden oil pressure was lost. I know catastrophic happened but was conned into dropping oil pan and put in high volume oil pump. now at 2000 rpm I have enough oil pressure to keep rods and mains from rattling but lifters are collapsed. At idle oil pressure drops to zero. It is a mechanical oil gauge. I know the tune-up had nothing to do with it but I did drive the truck about an hour before. A machine shop said the only way he knows oil pressure can be lost like this is for a cam bearing to come out [catastrophic].
View 3 RepliesOk here's the problem me and my dad just rebuilt a 7.3 in a 2001 f 350 we got everything running the got about 200 miles on the rebuilt the one day the oil guage starts freaking out we have replaced the sensor, pulled the cooler to make sure the plug wasn't stuck. the gauge gas the pressure is fine when the engine is revved up but when it idles it says it has no pressure. what else to look for. The engine is a rebuilt 7.3 turbo with oversized pistons everything else is stock.
View 2 Replies2004 super duty crew long bed 2wd, v10 auto SLT.
Manual says not in fuse block.
Looked behind radio, nothing, not even a space or the blue one there.
There are some on the firewall, driver side not marked. No pink wire.
Where else??
20 06 F350 6.0l ... Recently noticed when my climate control selector switch is on the off position, the a/c vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds then stops, then cycles, then stops.. Does this until it's changed to a different setting. Pulled the connector behind the selector and plugged the black hose and it stopped. Re-connected it and could hear site leaking so I kinked the white hose and it stopped. I have also lost my MAX a/c that is now defaulting to defrost. Is there a part number just got the hose selector, or a way to fix the existing one?
View 4 RepliesWill it be easier for me to drop the tank or to take off the bed of the truck does a 1990 F350 7.5 liter dual tank gas
View 1 RepliesI thought I needed a head kit my truck runs and drives great till I run out of coolant no smoke doesn't get hot I run out of coolant I lose my turbo. Pull over fill it up I'm back to normal I just noticed I have sweat marks on my water pump pulley.
View 6 RepliesSo my auto locking hubs have not been working for a couple years and I have just been locking them manually as needed. But now I have a boat and I like putting the truck in 4x4 at the landings just for added safety. It's difficult to manually put the truck in and out of 4x4 for just a few minutes when I know I have auto hubs. Plus I recently got aftermarket rims and they cover the manual locks, which can be accessed with a screw driver, but again, tough.
So today I bought the vacuum solenoid valve, whatever its called, and installed it, and they work! But the vacuum pump will not shut off while the 4x4 is engaged. The auto hubs work, my a/c controls work, everything works fine, the only symptom is the pump not shutting off. My a/c stays right where I put it, it doesn't go into defrost or anything, not even for a second, like it used to when my solenoid first started failing. Is the pump running normal? Or is there a leak on the other side of that solenoid? Should I even worry about it if everything else is working?
Got a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
View 9 RepliesMy a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
I was driving down the highway and the truck was in overdrive and under a load passing at about 20lbs boost and all of the sudden I lost all power, felt truck shake a little. The tow/haul light is flashing and got only one code P0730. The truck won't go into gear in either forward or reverse now, had it towed home and put a pressure gauge on it and found about 100psi at idle In neutral, in reverse and forward I got strange readings the pressure goes way up momentarily then down to 100psi, and increments back up to over 500 psi and seems to stay there but neither forward or reverse engage. I have no clue what could be wrong at this point. I am attaching a video .....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?