Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Hole In Stock Muffler - Replace It?
Aug 22, 2013
I have a 2003 F250 5.4L crew cab with the 156"wb. She has just developed a hole in the stock muffler so it will need to be replaced.
I want something that is an easy-fit, has better flow, and maybe better sounding.
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How will a muffler delete on stock exhaust sound? I don't want to remove the cat because I don't want it to be too loud. I want it to sound good but not too much whistle (considering my truck is a 2003 the whistle would be very loud) Should I just to a delete pipe on the stock exhaust, or do a cat-back 4 inch straight pipe? what will sound better? Also doing the cat back exhaust will cost a lot more.. but is it worth it? What I should do.
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Just brought my 2006 f250 crew cab v8 to the garage. My muffler has a fairly large hole in it. My mechanic said the piping to the muffler is still in good shape and literally, the only part that requires replacing is the muffler itself. I told him I'd like a bit more of a "throaty" sound than the original stock muffler. He suggested the dynomax super turbo. I checked a few US websites and it's about half price there with free shipping. In fact, most mufflers are about half price in the States. There are so many to choose from, Which brand and model to go with. I'd like to keep it as close to a direct fit as I can seeing as all the pipes are still good.
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I like the stock rims on my 03 Super, any success story about this type of rim refurbishing? Or cleaning them up? Something like stripping all that chrome plating off them for a flat universal look? Nothing fancy.
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Actually the previous owner of my 7.3 Dually cut the muffler out and straight piped it, it's really not that loud but too much drone for long highway hauls.
What's a good replacement muffler for a 7.3? Wouldn't mind a little bit of sound, it already has an oversized tip.
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I'd like to replace the back bench seats with something that has a headrest. Can I swap out the benchseat from a 2004 model and place it in my 2003 model?
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I replaced my my front hub assemblies on my 2003 F250, 4x4, about two years ago and my driver side hub is leaking. I first noticed it the other day when I tried to shift into 4 wheel drive and my hubs would not lock in the ESOF system.
I used a vacuum pump and it leaked down pretty fast so I assume the knuckle/axle seal is the culprit.
I plan on ordering these three seals:
Amazon.com: f81z-1s175-hca
I am also noticing another # for the axle seal. It is 3C3Z-3254-CA. Which is correct for my 2003?
Are my questions would I actually need to replace all three? The dust seal is not leaking at the moment. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?
What type of grease do I need to use the seals? I have some disc brake bearing lithium grease in the cabinet. Will this work or do I need to get a specific type
Lastly, I've seen a post where members have made their seal seating tool out of the galvanized pipe, cap, and a flange. The flange is said to be too large and it would have to be ground down for the right diameter.
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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Have a knocking noise on my right front when I hit a hole or when the wheel comes up like when I turn I to a drive way that has a little hill the right tire hits and I hear a popping Boise sounds like its under the truck but I can't place it? I have a 2003 f250 crewcab 4x4 with 6.0 and 6inch lift with 37 inch tires....
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5.4L f250 is dead. Went through a small mud hole and the he truck just died. The muddy h20 was about 1/2 way up on my tires. After getting pulled out I checked the air filter and its dry. I did notice that the insulation on the hood was wet towards the back half of the engine. Guess maybe the fan sprayed it up there. Tried starter fluid with no luck. Just turns over. Also checked the fuel reset and its normal. Where should I start.
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2001 f-250 7.3 radiator. If you ever have to change the water pump think about removing the radiator first. Looks like they are paper thin and very easy to damage. Must be a problem since the local parts house carrys them in stock. Just thinking.
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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I have a 2004 F250, CCSB, 6.0L, Fx4, Lariat.
I am trying to replace the passenger side front hub. I either have a bad hub, or I am not installing it properly. I have it installed with the locking hub unlocked and trying to turn the hub, the entire passenger side axle spins. It is also very hard to turn it. I strapped axle, and the hub is almost impossible to turn, with or with out the actual hub installed.
This is the second hub that I installed with the same results. I''m not ruling out bad out of the box, but it is the second one I installed today.
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I'm replacing the passenger side manual hub on my '04 F250. I did a brake job last year and I'm sure I cleaned/inspected/lubed the hubs. I can't seem to get this one out. I have the snap ring out and with a rubber mallet, I can get it wiggle just a little. I've loaded up around where the snap ring went with penetrating oil.
Am I missing something? It's just a snap ring and the hub should just pull out, right?
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I am getting ready to make a set of front shackles for my truck for a temporary lift solution to fit my 35s until i can afford a complete suspension lift kit. I cannot for the life of me find the size of the hole for the bolts. I don't wanna drill it too big then have play in the shackle. My stockers are still installed so I don't have those to measure just yet. Need to verify the diameter hole i need to drill? and stock shackles look to be about 5.25" center to center, from what i can measure with them installed on the truck? so 2" lift, the new shackles will need to be about 9.25" center to center, right? (add 4", nets a 2" lift?)
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Fog Lamps. How do you turn them on. I have a new (to me) 2005 F-350 Crew Cab Long Box Dually King Ranch 6.0L with all the fixes, S/C Programmer, and a water filter system. 200,000 miles
How do you turn on the Fog lamps and what kind of towing MPG are you getting? My 28' 5th Wheel weighs under 7,000, and my 36 footer triple axel under 12,000.
This sure isn't my old '95 F-350 7.3L single axel XLT Crew Cab 4X4 Long Box.
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I have a 2004 F250 and would like to have more light in front of me. I looked under the front to where the stock fog light would get mounted but I don't see any wire harness in that area. What is involved if I pick up a pair of replacement fog lights like the offer at LMC Truck. Would i need buy a harness? And what about a switch?
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