Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Heater Blend Door Not Working?
Jan 19, 2016
My ex-has the electronic temp control. I've noticed there is very little difference from full hot to turned down less than 1/2 way.
(I'll convert to Fahrenheit here) Example - lowest temp setting is 60. If I am on heat, turning it from 60 to 66, gives me almost full hot. A slight difference is felt turning it to 68 and 70, but basically, 70 is full HOT. Continuing to turn it up to 88 makes zero difference.
I figured the blend door actuator might be toast, but it is in fact moving. I pulled the heater core cover off and here is what I noticed.
At 60, the blend door is fully open (correct, pulling cold air from outside) turning it to 66 the blend door almost fully closes. then the last little bit gets closed when going from 66-70. Anything hotter than 70 is of no use because mechanically it IS on full hot at 70. So basically I get full cold, or full hot, nothing in the middle. I pulled blend door actuator out, cleaned all the built-up crud around the shaft, took it apart and cleaned it, (no broken gears) no effect.
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Over the last few days I have read several threads about heaters not working and blend door replacement. My '02 4.6 F-150 has 250k+ miles and I've always done regular maintenance on it. With the cold front moving in I've noticed that the heater is not blowing hot air. I flushed the radiator and flushed the heater core several times to make sure the core was not clogged. I also replaced the upper radiator hose because of the "crunchy" sound when squeezed. I also replaced the thermostat. Still, the heater is not blowing hot. I assume like many others that the blend door needs to be replaced. My question is do I need to replace the door only or the door and the motor (actuator)? I guess I need to test the motor before buying a new one. I saw a video where you remove all the components on the transmission hump and can actually stick you finger in the motor opening to see if the shaft has come apart.
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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sitting at a redlight with radio off, sounds like heater door or something under the dash is moving. Thing is, all the controls for heater and a/c were off.
2009 f250 5.4.
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Ok, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
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I have a 07 F650 crewcab with a Cat engine. The air-condition and heater fan work intermittently no rime or reason to it, be driving down the road and it quites, then maybe a few hours later and it will start. A few days ago my wife turned on the key and the fan was working and then yesterday she turned the key on and it wasn't. When I bought it I watched them replace the fan and it worked for a few hundred mile then stopped, for the rest of the trip it was on and off. I replace the resistor and spliced on a new electrical connector, but still have the same problems....
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I bought the wife a truck a few weeks ago and she said the heater wasn't working well and was noisy. So I hoped in it at lunch today and she was right, barely any heat output and its noisy coming from behind the passenger airbag.
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Very strange things happening with 2009 F350 Gas, first the heater blower only is now working on high, progressively has gotten worse, low settings started not working a while ago, now only high works. Just recently the strangest thing, start the truck OK, turn on radio OK, turn lights on then the radio goes off. Will bring it to dealer in a day or two if I can't figure this one out.
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I know there is a motor or switch that I can remember the name of that is in the dash somewhere that controls the Defrost and regular cabin flow. I am not good with A/C, and was wondering, what is the name of it, and is it something I can get to behind the glove box or is it very complicated?
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
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All 4 crew cab door locks are not working...I see and hear them moving a little but not enough to get the job done.....Ive read a good fix on this forum but have a few questions...... 1. Could the problem be in the switch or wires ... 2. If I try to fix---do I need to fix all doors or is one door somehow messing the other up.
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All my door locks stopped working in my 2008 F250 Crew Fx4. Locks do not work from a driver or pass. door, key fob, or door keyless pad. When you hit any of the switches you can hear a relay type sound in the SJB.
There was some sort of failure because we could smell it. But I am not sure if it was the SJB that failed or a wire between the SJB and the lock motors.
Looking for a wiring diagram of the door lock circuit? And/or know how to troubleshoot to find the bad wire or if it is the SJB that failed.
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2008 F-250 Lariat with EATC climate controls... My truck suffers from the knocking/buzzing/clicking that is apparently associated with faulty blend door actuators. I have been putting off getting them replaced because of the hefty price tag associated with tearing apart the dash and whatnot that is required to get to the lower actuator that sits right on the transmission tunnel. Anyhow, today was the first day I really needed A/C and it just wasn't cold. Cool yes, but not cold. Is there a way to determine if this is a function of the blend door(s) not doing their thing versus the system A/C needing a repair/recharge? I don't have access to any A/C equipment myself, how to determine if it's a blend door issue?
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2008 F-350 Lariat, 6.4L, dual climate control. The passenger side blows ONLY hot air whereas driver side seems to blow whatever is called for. Is it right to assume this is the passenger side actuator, and this actuator is the "easy" one to replace (i.e. not pulling dash)? I read in another thread that there might be a question on determining the correct one to replace, so therefore I ask for clarification. How to verify if my assumption wrong?
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Two nights ago I got into the truck at night and realized the interior lights don't come on. I tried the rocker switch it will only dim the dash gauges now. It did work before guessing its a bad rocker switch. I can turn them on manually front and back....
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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My door locks stopped working new battery in fob, I can hear them trying to work. 2000 f250 crew cab .....
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Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
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I bought a 2002 f250 Crewcab bout 6 months ago. A couple of months back I noticed that after driving it and turning off ignition and opening door my radio would stay on and doors would not respond to key fob or switch on doors. Eventually it would reset and radio would turn off and key fob would work. It also makes the locking sound when press on brake. It doesn't happen all the time though and that's only issue. Truck is in awesome shape only 106,000 on it, belonged to an old man who only used it to tow camper twice a year. I've read a few posts that have similar problems and have heard could be gem or vsm.
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