Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F550 - Hubs Won't Stay Locked
Jan 26, 2017
Just got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
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Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
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2008 F350 hubs wont stay locked in when in auto position. everything stays locked while in manual and 4x4 works fine, but in auto the hubs wont stay locked while spinning. I was trying to find the problem when i noticed that one hub stays locked all the time and the other locks and unlocks as it should but it wont stay locked while spinning. My question is do I have two bad hubs or is their a leak that wont let the hub stay locked? Also on the hub that wont unlock is this a leak problem as well or a internal problem?
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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I bought a new Motorcraft door latch for my F550 because the door latch won't stay latched. You close the door firm and it seats well then pops loose the first bump in the road. I found all kinds of OEM replacment latches all over the internet but nowhere can I find any instructions or videos or any talk of the best way to go about replacing the door latch. I know they wear out from constant use on the drivers side.
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Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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But on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
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Had to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
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Ok so some one locked my hubs and put the truck in 4x4 4low i assume my aunt was driving it, truck wouldn't shift from 2 to 3rd is this normal since its in 4low. The shifter also seems pretty stiff and 4wheel isn't used much if there a way to know if 3rd gear toon a crap? Trans fluid seems fine not dirty or burnt...
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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Ok so my fire station has a 2003 f550 rescue truck with a rescue body with the round tail lights, we recently upgraded them to the LED ones that are much brighter but of course it flashes at the speed of sound. The question I have is:
1. the relay {flasher} is located on the driver side inner fender? I think....
2. does the same EP-27 relay/flasher fix the problem?
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F350 FX4 Dually with the 7.3L Diesel. It has locking hubs and electric shift in the cab.
I have had locking hubs before that you had to engage to shift into 4 wheel drive and I have had trucks without locking hubs.
My truck didn't come with a manual, so I am looking for instructions for the proper use of this system.
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2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
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Ok, so I am trying to get are 99 F550 all fixed up and have a few things to ask.
So we have had the ABS light on now for some time. I had it scanned at O Riley's and the scanner said the abs sensor on the passenger side was faulty. So I replaced that and the light was still on. We had taken the truck to ford to get it checked out for a rear end problem we have been having as some of you may know from a previous post I made.
Well ford said it was the rear sensor on the axle that was causing the abs light to come on. So I replaced that. Still have the abs light on. I disconnected the batteries to try and see if that would reset it and it did not. I hooked up the Scan Gauge II and ran to see if it picked up anything. It said it did not pick up any thing. I still did a code clear but it didn't work. If there a tricky way that you have to get the code cleared off?
2nd I was checking the fluid. I noticed that the tranny fluid is over filled quite a bit. Will this hurt it? Should I drain the fluid to where its at the fill line?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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OK, so I have the brake pedal downshifting, but there is no real exhaust brake. Can I have one installed, like the latter model 2015 or even the 2016, with the button?
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I have a 2008 f-550 diesel. Had water in fuel. Flushed the entire system. Replaced the fuel filters and injectors but still will not start.
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I'm working on a 2000 7.3 that was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start ...
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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I have a new 2013 F-550 Lariat 200" WB on order. I can and will increase the combination weight on the truck, to make full use of the 19, 500 gvwr. My question is how much will a current F-550 pull on a 5th wheel/gooseneck style trailer before it becomes dangerous? I plan to set the truck up with an 11ft aluminum Eby flat body, with a Holland FW6000 5th wheel placed under the body. I am considering a 35 or 40 ft flat gooseneck.
The combination weight would be changed based upon the axles I choose to put under the trailer. Two 12k axles will give me 44,000 gcwr, two 15k axles will give me 50,000 gcwr, and two 16k axles would give me a 51,000 gcwr. The truck will be able to carry about 10,000-11,000, the trailer needs to take the rest. I am confident that 44,000 gcwr will not be a problem, but the idea of 50,000, or 51,000 really makes me question safety. So, how much have you hauled with a F-550, and a gooseneck trailer?
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