Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F450 Won't Start Cold - Minor Oil Leak
Feb 23, 2015
I have a 2003 F450 PSD which won't start cold. I leave it plugged in overnight and it won't start in the morning without starting fluid. I spray a little while cranking and it turns right over. It runs really rough for a few minutes but as it gets hotter it settles down and runs like it's brand new.
Once at operating temp it will start up again no problem. I changed the GPs, the GPR, the valve cover gaskets and GP harnesses, 2 brand new batteries, oil change, fuel filter, air filter. I can't imagine what the problem can be.
I know the icp sensor is bad, I checked it and it has oil in it, but it still won't start unplugged so that isn't the main problem. I noticed it has a minor oil leak, not sure of where it's coming from, but it seems to leak when the truck settles.
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03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
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My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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Got a 99 F450 7.3 with 190k miles, started acting sluggish. When cold, it wouldn't stay running, almost as if out of fuel. Would stall out when you pressed and released the accelerator but would idle fine. Now, it won't even stay running. Still acts like it's out of fuel. Changed the air filter, fuel filter, and added injector cleaner and conditioner. What else could it be? after warming up when shifting gears and letting off throttle it stalls and when restarted lets off blueish white smoke.
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Im working on a 03 f-450 that has a front end vibration, it starts when you hit 25 mph and its a humming / vibration that seems more to the passenger side than the drivers side. You can also hear it decrease when you come down in speed and it dissappears below 25 mph. Its a 2003 F-450 CC 4x4 DRW with the v-10.
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Attempting to debug the Horn not working on my 2003 Ford F450, The fuse is good (shown as #37 15 amps) so next I would like to check the Horn relay.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 coolant leak only when the truck is cold. Ive noticed it in the morning when I leaving for work. It looked liked it was coming from the passenger side yesterday and today it's on the drivers side when I'm sure is because my driveway has a small tilt to it I've looked everywhere I could under the hood and don't see it leaking.
I don't have any temp problems or white smoke and my coolant level has changed that much and for a few days the drip stopped now it's back. I tried to search for the answer but can't find it. I'm just wanted to make sure it's not the head gasket but I'm sure I would have a sign it it was. I will include where I saw it dripping from. It's parked on flat ground here ... That's where I saw a drip coming from driver side ....
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I have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
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Purchased new 2016 450 platinum. Has less than 800 miles on it and has a terrible vibration between 70-80 mph... Already have taken to dealer who stated there was a wheel out of balance and that they fixed the issue. But still present.
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I have a 99 F450. I have an ABS light on. No codes (at least not that my code reader can pickup), but I am also not having any issues. Brakes work fine. What to swap out or where to look?
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Can an f-450 with a blown 6.4 diesel received an transplant from an f-350 V-10.
How much would need to go over from the f-350 to f-450?
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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I have an 02 F450 with a dump bed an just under 45,000 miles (was barley used by the first owner). This maybe unrelated to my problem but is worth mentioning. This past week I noticed a small puddle where I had previously parked at a customers house so I checked the oil. I was about 2 quarts low. I followed the oil trail up and found a pool in the valley. One of the high pressure lines were loose and the seal was chewed up so I replaced it and tightened it. No more oil leak.
Now my new problem. Two days later, after about 45 minutes on the interstate driving about 75 mph the truck started to rapidly lose power as if it was running out of fuel. I heard a loud ticking sound coming from the engine and the more I tried to accelerate the worse it got. I pulled over and the truck stalled. I thought that maybe my fuel gauge had crapped the bed on me because it still read a little over 1/4 tank. I called a buddy and got more deisal in it and it started right up. We'll after about 5 minutes of 60 mph it started to happen again. So to fast forward... I opened up the tank and found the the strainer had crumbled in the bottom of the tank.
So I cleaned out the screens in the sending unit and replaced the strainer, replaced the fuel filter, and reverse blew out the lines. I read about checking the hpop reservoir for oil and it is present. So to sum up, as long as I stay under 60mph or so I can get about 5 minutes of run time before the truck starts to stutter and stumble. If I shut it off for about 5minutes I can go back up to 60 again but it the cycle continues. 5 on and 5 off. If I start the truck after say 30 seconds after shutting it off it sounds like it's going to die and has no power at all. I have worked on a lot of vehicles but none with anything like this and this is my first deisal. What do I do to get this beast back to normal?
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I have a 1999 F450 Diesel dump truck. Automatic. The problem that I have is that the truck will drive VERY SLOWLY while the rps go up.
You can hear the engine revving up, and a strong air sound when doing so (do not know if intake or exhaust, but its like a strong wind sound. And not like a hiss, so I do not think its a vacuum leak).
The transmission goes through gears fine, but it does the rev up thing through every gear. So I am wondering if something like the torque converter might be broken or slipping.
For example, if you go with the loaded truck up a hill, you have to really push it to keep any type of speed. Or when you get off a red light.
When I bought it used, I thought that it might have a really short final gear. But that would not explain the high RPM and no push.....
No codes at all.
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It's a 2004 F450 super duty, no power steering. The pump seems to function, no pump whine. I was told that it may be the steering gear box it's self.
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I've got a 2004 f450 6.0 diesel. This thing will start and run great when it's cold. Then when it gets to operating temp, around 190, it will shut down. This is getting worse and worse.
A little history, it was doing this for awhile and a had a few other issues before this. Puking antifreeze, stiction issues, and bad exhaust manifold. Since it wasn't running great I figured why not pull that cab and take care of these issues.
As of last week she got new head gaskets, new exhaust manifold, new injectors, updated standpipes, updated dummy plugs, new o rings on hpop (yellow on the bottom), and a new pipe to the oil pump. I have the old style it's not the stc fitting.
All that work, it still stalls when warm. I monitor with a scan gauge 2. ( Big diesel tech Ron's fan) ...
First thing, give here two second crank start right up, runs better then ever. Gets to operating temp, rev it up, then stalls. Ipc is at 85% ipr gets up to 180 psi.
Unplug ipc, shows 765 psi on the ipr still no start. Put shop air to her and I can't hear any leaks ( probably 15 mins or so).
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I have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
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