Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F350 - Minor Coolant Leak
Dec 31, 2013
03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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I have a 2003 F450 PSD which won't start cold. I leave it plugged in overnight and it won't start in the morning without starting fluid. I spray a little while cranking and it turns right over. It runs really rough for a few minutes but as it gets hotter it settles down and runs like it's brand new.
Once at operating temp it will start up again no problem. I changed the GPs, the GPR, the valve cover gaskets and GP harnesses, 2 brand new batteries, oil change, fuel filter, air filter. I can't imagine what the problem can be.
I know the icp sensor is bad, I checked it and it has oil in it, but it still won't start unplugged so that isn't the main problem. I noticed it has a minor oil leak, not sure of where it's coming from, but it seems to leak when the truck settles.
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I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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I bought this truck used several months back and have ran it extremely hard. It's supposedly studded and EGR deleted. The whole engine was replaced at 183,xxx by some diesel place. Anyways, while I was driving I smelled coolant and thought that was funny so I ignored it. Anyways, My livewire tuner started seeing a coolant and engine oil increase. I figured I'd go ahead and drive it home. It got to 153 F* and the coolant was around 129 F* The oil cooler has been clogging up and I just got my brand new Ford one in.
So that will be replaced sooner rather than later. When I got home, I checked the coolant level and there was nothing in it!! It was pretty much empty. So I put the water hose on it and turned the water on and after about 2 mins steam started coming out near the turbo. I mean a crapload of steam. I turned the water on again and saw that it was coming out right next to the EGR delete. It's hard to tell exactly but looks like the intake manifold??? What could it be? It's not the hose for the EGR. The degas bottle has never overflowed, there's no white smoke except on cold starts in really cold temps.
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I noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
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I got water leak after wash my f-350. My lock stopped work and when I opened fuse box I found lil water on fuse box cover. I'm wondering about any other solution before I try replace the seals on windshield
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When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
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Alright, after finally fixing my 4X4 issues, now I have a coolant leak. It's on the passenger side, just above the exhaust downpipe. I can't find any leaks in the hoses, and as far as I can see it looks like it's coming out of the back of the head and running down the back of the block. The odd thing is there's no oil in it, and no coolant in my oil (which obviously is a good thing), but I don't want it to get to that point of it is getting worse. Heat works fine, and it isn't overheating, only losing maybe a gallon a month. At some point the ford gold stuff was flushed and it has the compatible green, that is the only thing I can tell is not stock. I don't want to tear it down if I don't absolutely have to.
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My grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
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I'm a total beginner and am slowly nursing an '87 F350 7.5L back to running condition as a plow/farm truck. It regularly loses coolant, even on very short trips around the farm and I figured that radiator needed to be replaced. Today I was hooking a snow plow up and had it running for about 15 minutes when light grey smoke started to come out of the vents in the cab. Looking at the engine, I noticed a lot of coolant leaking out from below the heater housing. The coolant was dripping out of what looks like a protruding bit of pipe a where a hose should be attached. What am I looking at here?
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I recently did the water pump and hoses due to seeping around the water pump gasket. While there, I decided to replace the overflow reservoir as well - old and slightly discolored. I'm now on my 3rd overflow reservoir - they are all leaking at the front seam. I don't think I have a blown headgasket or injector issues - no signs of white smoke ever, and there isn't any oil or fuel in the coolant. I've also tried a new cap, but it's starting to leak before I build any noticeable pressure - I can back off on the cap and don't get much pressure released. So - just bad luck on parts from Ford? All were OEM from different Ford dealers.
Pics - hard to see on here but go to Imgur to zoom in. [URL] ...
1999 F350 7.3 CCLB Dually. Stock except for DP Tuner and Gauges.
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I have a 1997 F350 460 7.5 automatic two wheel drive. I am having a sudden issue with the coolant being instantly over pressurized. Even when the engine is cold and I start it for a minute and then shut it off, the coolant comes under great pressure. I noticed this starting when coolant was being forced out of the overflow reservoir. The truck does not overheat.
I changed thermostat and radiator cap. This is my moving truck and we are about to go almost 2,000 miles with the truck full of our "stuff" (this has a 15' enclosed box on it to, like an old Uhaul). Anything I can do from my own driveway. I know it may be the head gasket but praying it is not. Lastly, do I dare take off with it doing this and just bring a lot of coolant with me???
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I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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I have a 2002 V10 F350 6.8L that I recently purchased at auction and am fixing up. I've made good progress already and replaced many of the suspension components so that the tuck drives straight. It does however have an oil leak that seems to manifest of heavy acceleration.
I'm not sure exactly where from as I have not crawled under the car, but I can see a drip land right on the Y pipe coming out the exhaust manifolds. There is enough of a drip to create quite a smoke storm under the hood. Any common areas to look for?
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About a week ago I began smelling coolant after driving my 2012 F350 6.7. Yesterday I noticed a small amount of coolant on the ground and decided to take it to the dealer. As soon as I told the Service Manager what was going on he said......"You need to leave it......there is no doubt in my mind it needs a radiator". They pressure tested and and sure enough it does. He said they are replacing about 2-3 a month but there is no recall.
Here is where it gets fun. Apparently radiators fall off at 36,000 miles and are not included in the 100,000 Power Train Warranty. It gets better. The Radiator is on national back order for 5-6 weeks.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0l diesel. I just replaced the egr valve plus egr cooler and I was going to flush the coolant. I was filling the truck with distilled water to do the flush when I noticed a leak under the truck. When looked to see where it was coming from it looks like it's coming from where the cylinder head meets the block on both sides in the back by the transmission. Is this a sign that the head gaskets are shot or did I forgot to tighten a hose or something stupid like that?
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OK, I got the message, ran the tests, all is well. Now how do I clear the message? It's a 2013 F350 6.7PSD.
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2006 F350 6.0l dually. Head gasket replaced, racing studs installed, other assoc components replaced few years ago. Y pipes replaced two years ago.
3 weeks ago had oil change and service. Last week engine started making roaring sound. Hubby raised hoid and discovered coolant fill tank cap off ( sitting on battery). Shop owner came to our home and filled with coolant, about 3 gal in. We drive from Houston to Lubbock then Dallas this week. Added about another gal coolant.
Hubby thought he heard an air sound yesterday, but was slight. Today after driving for about an hour at hwy speed, after we slowed for an exit, when throttle depressed again, air noise very loud and turbo weak. Limping home.
Have had some of the flexible hoses replaced in the last year or so as well.
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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