I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
View 1 RepliesI started having a issue with getting my 00 f250 power stroke to start. It started out I could move around the gear shifter in park and get it start and today I had several times I had to put it in neutral to get it to crank. I did notice that my shifter on the column seemed to have some play when in gear but then again my 99 F250 V10 also has some free movement when in gear. Is there a neutral safety switch I could replace or any way to adjust the shifter?
View 14 RepliesTruck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
Got an '01 f350 v10, auto. When using steering column shifter tends to be hard to find reverse and drive. Is it something in steering column selector or is it in tranny? The truck has 40,000 miles on it. Have a parts truck also so just trying to figure out where to start first.
View 3 RepliesWhenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 F350 6.0 King Ranch. My first diesel truck. Bought it in March 2016. One owner with 102000 miles on it. Has a Bullet Proof oil cooler and 4 inch exhaust. Truck ran great until a week ago. Now, under any hard acceleration it blows out blue/gray smoke and does not seem to have as much power. Coolant level is constant and I cannot find any traces of water and oil mixing.
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
View 2 RepliesI need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
2002 F350 5.4 . I did some plowing today, truck ran Great, but noticed the Auto Shifter starting to get some play in it, 185 k on it. I recall reading about how to tighten it back up.
View 3 RepliesI've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
View 12 Repliesi have a f350 superduty with a 7.3 turbo diesel and I pretty much hafta keep it plugged in to get it to start, i have installed all new glow plugs and both relays have been changed and the problem is still there, only other option i have not tried yet was changing the pcm controller but unsure if that is the problem ..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 7.3 2wd Dually - that only only produces cold air conditioing on hard acceleration only stays on for a few minutes then falls away.
The temperature is cold when its going. I've checked the levels and its gased OK. There is no voltage to the clutch on the compressor when it is not working. So I take it, that it isn't the clutch shim/spacing.
If I accelerate hard it comes back immediately. Whether I am going slow at 1500rpm or doing 70mph at 2500rpm - Uphill or downhill. Its seems to need a substantial amount of Turbo boost for just a few seconds to turn on.
I actually bled the system a little and its made it worse. Stays on for a shorter time and isn't as cold. However the low pressure side is still on the high side at 50psi when running.
Its done this for approx 2 years and its getting worse.. And now its really hot outside.
2015 F-350 diesel purchased Sept 2104. When towing my 16,000 lb 5th wheel the 6 to 5 downshift seems to have gotten much harsher in the last few months. About 10,000 miles on the truck, much of it towing. Is this an indication of a developing problem?
View 1 RepliesI have an 06' f350 6Ltr. Over 300 k. Good shape, i have owned it for about a year. My first diesel. Last week it wouldnt start, had a 1/4 tank. Read about problems with other trucks with a broken pick up on fuel pump. So i filled the tank and it started. Next morning used command start and it ran for 1 minute then shutdown. took about 5 minutes of manually turning it over and it fires up ran all day. Does this almost everyday since and now shuts down while driving after hard acceleration and surges under acceleration when on incline or underload. Changed fuel relay, fuel filters. Researched and asked around but getting mixed opinions. I am mechanically inclined but this is a little beyond my scope of trouble shooting and id rather not start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
View 2 Replies'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
I have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.
Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.
So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....
My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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