Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F350 - 4X4 Won't Engage - Light On The Dash Also Does Not Come On
Oct 24, 2015
This is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
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My 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
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Truck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
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I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
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How to take the panels off? I need to remove the passenger srs module for the light bulb repair. It's a 2003 F350 XLT SWR 4X4.
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2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
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I was using 4x4 High the other day and it was working just fine. Now today, I was at my first parking lot to plow and used the ESOF to shift into 4x4 High and it did not engage with the hubs being in auto mode. The lights on the dash show up indicating that I am, but I am still in 2wd.
If I manually lock the hubs, it engages 4wd high. I tried the same thing using the ESOF to switch over to 4x4 low and it does NOT engage either.
I also noticed that heater blower was switching over to full defrost even though I had it set on the floor setting (manual heat climate *****).
Does this sound like a vacuum leak? I haven't had a chance to test the lines yet. Btw, this is my second work truck and not the one listed in my signature below. It's a 2006 f-350 6.0 xlt.
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First off I want to say I love my 11 f350 6.3 srw she's a awesome truck. I pull a small 7x14 trailer for my biz..
(3600-400) is the usually weight, I always use my tow feature. One day last week I start out hit my button in go, but I notice the engine braking/down shifting wasn't working. The trans still shifts smooth n normal the light is on the dash but no tow engage.
I check the transmission wire plug to make sure it'd getting a good connection, it does. I take the rubber boot off next to the shifter look at those wires they look ok not pinch or nothing, so I'm stumped.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 powerstroke it is an automatic. It has the switch on the dash to engage the 4 wheel drive. When I turn the switch nothing happens.. no lights come on or anything. it has warren locking hubs. What my problem is???
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What this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
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I need to remove the panel to the left of the dash that has the headlight switch and AC outlet in it.
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I have an '02 F350 PS. Recently I have been hearing a crackling noise coming from under the dash on the drivers side sometimes at idle but more often when driving. Th strange thing about it is that the noise stops as soon as there is any pressure on the brake pedal. The noise sounds electrical in nature but I can't be sure. I want to crawl under the dash to try and ID the source but it is not consistent and I have not been able to do so when I hear it. What it might be?
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2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
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I did this years ago in my 04 Mini Cooper, although there were no vacuum lines, just about a 30 wire wiring harness. simple enough, extended each wire 1 by 1 so it reached where i needed it to be for the new location.
How hard would this be to move it? i haven't even taken the control panel out of the dash yet, i will do that tomorrow and see what's back there, it's been a while since i removed one so i don't recall what the wires were like, if there were vacuum lines, etc.
Until tomorrow when i can look for myself, if there is enough slack in the entire harness/vacuum lines/etc to move it slightly up/down/left/right, but in the same general area? I don't really want to move it, but here's the reasoning. my Joying android double din head unit doesn't fit. it fits in the opening in the dash behind the bezel:
And I've trimmed the little "lips/tabs" on the bezel radio opening completely off, there's nothing else to trim, and the plastic trim around the face of the radio prevents it from sliding in flush with the bezel, so the face of the screen is parallel with the face of the a/c controls, like the stock radio is.
kind of hard to tell but if you look close where the sanding marks are, it's completely flat with the main part of the bezel. normal double din installs in 99-04's i believe you only have to trim either the top/bottom, or the side tabs depending on the unit/stereo installation kit/trim pieces, but usually double dins will fit after trimming these tabs. this android unit is slightly larger due to the plastic trim around the screen (not removable, it's part of the actual screen) so that's why i'm having a hard time.
The only thing i can think of is to completely remove that plastic "bar" that's right in between the radio and the a/c controls, the one that's sort of rounded on the front. if i remove that, the radio will fit, but then it will cut into the a/c controls. now i'm not sure if i can maybe trim more bezel off directly under the a/c (there's not much of the bezel left directly under it to even trim) and move the a/c down just enough to allow the radio to fit right above it....or do something more in depth, and relocate it completely, either somewhere else on the dash, maybe in my future full length custom console i plan to build to house a subwoofer or two, as well as cup holders etc....or, which i think would be my favorite but the most work, and probably not even worth it because i THINK there's vacuum lines on the controls, is to move it to the overhead console like the same exact control is mounted in my excursion (which controls the rear air). i think i even have a spare excursion console that i could use so it houses the controls like stock and looks 100% factory rather than fiber glassing etc...i'd really like that option, it'd give me more space in the bezel to mount my clarion 1/2 DIN equalizer near the radio (which i probably can't if i leave the a/c in the dash) and it would keep me from possibly putting the a/c in the console, that's a last resort for me i think.
This is sorta neat how they moved it, i'd assume there may be enough play in the harness to move it here without having the cut/extend anything? that's what this thread is for essentially, so i can find that out .. I also don't know if i want to even put the a/c there because I'm not 100% sure yet, but i may bring my console (at an angle/curve) all the way up to that point on the dash where my console build will meet the dash. Not sure if I'm going to stop it below that point and retain the stock pull out cup holders and little cubby, or just remove that completely and bring the console to the bottom of the actual bezel. Looking for any pics of the back of the a/c controls (again, 2004 f350, non digital controls, same as in that last picture above). As well as info on how to go about extending things if it's doable without being over the top work to complete it.
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I have checked the fuses on my 2000 f- 350 for the dash lites. They are ok. I have turn signals n all but no dash lites ?
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Every time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
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4x4 dash indicator light stopped working on my father's 2002 F-350 V10 about 8 years ago and I'm trying to see if I can fix that problem.
Unsure exactly when this problem began, but when a mechanic replaced front wheel hub about 8~9 years ago, automatic hub lock stopped working. Back then, I thought that is why 4x4 indicator stopped working.
When I removed hub to replace ball joint 2 years ago, I discovered yellow O ring was not installed and that was the reason why automatic hub lock stopped working. Now I installed new O ring and vacuum seal, automatic hub lock works. However, 4x4 indicator on the dash still does not work.
I thought may be bulb went out, but when I tested dash bulbs with self test mode, 4x4 indicator light turns on. Also I believe that lamp is LED not regular bulb.
When I pulled DTC, I get P1879 - Powertrain Transmission Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure. From what I searched this indicates failure at vacuum solenoid for front hub locks, but it is working fine. What is going on?
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I have a 2004 350. Turn signals quit working don't come up on dash either but when I turn the flashers on the left turn signal on come on that's on the dash and the lights. I replaced the turn signal relay that's under the radio. The old one would buzz when I turned the turn signal on but nothing would come up the new one clicks as it should but I'm still not getting turn signals lights on dash nor the light it's self. The flasher is still like it was only the left one comes on.
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I have a F350 2000 crew cab srw with 7.3 diesel. I removed the HID that was installed by previous owner. The factory wiring harness was still intact but now I don't have running lights or dash lights. I still have head lights, brake lights and blinkers... I replaced the head light units with factory replacements......
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So I just purchased a 2011 F350 6.7 this week...I've had absolutely no problems until I drove it to the dealer just to get it detailed...I give the salesman my key and he comes back and says it won't start...we tried numerous time to start it...put jump boxes on both batteries and nothing...had full power to all accessories but when attempting to crank it would black out on the dash screen and give me a "stop vehicle" warning....does this deal with security?....also after hassling to get rental for a hour or so,we tried agian and it fired right up?!?...also it started double honking when locking. ..is that due to the hood being up?
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2010 ford f350 super heavy duty diesel...
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