Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 V10 - Heat Shield Rattle That Sounds Like Exhaust Leak During Loaded Acceleration
Aug 16, 2013
I recently purchased this truck and have towed a couple of times with it. It has 98,000 miles and I do not know if the automatic transmission fluid has been changed. Should I have it flushed or drop the pan and change it? I have a lift so doing the change is no problem, although it might be worth it to pay a transmission shop to do it.
Also, I hear what appears to be like a heat shield rattle or something that sounds kinda like an exhaust leak during loaded acceleration. What to look for to locate the noise? One last question, the air bag light is on sometimes then off sometimes. Any known air bag light issues? I love the truck, hate the gas mileage!
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I've noticed that potentially my heat shield or whatever guard that is 1 step toward the front of the car from where the inlet pipe connects to the exhaust system may be the reason for my rattle at 2k and 3k rpms. i think its a heat shield but I am not sure. the thing is it seems properly mounted, nothing is cracked/broken/or loose. But when I do try and wiggle it it does make a slight creaking noise that sounds similar to the rattle I get. So I could foresee this as being my issue.
But, is there anyway to fix this rattle w/out just taking off the part? i figure its there for a reason and it looks like its held on in 2 places. But they're not nuts they almost look like spot welds or something. 1 on each side. What to do?
Something to get you all in here:
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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I've got a 08 f250 ext cab long box with the 5.4 gas. I know I know 3/4 ton gas. Trucks got NO power at all loaded and unloaded and really bad fuel mileage. Driving like a grandpa in town I'm getting 7mpg on the hwy unloaded I get 9 or 10mpg loaded on the hwy the trucks working way harder than it should and getting 6mpg.... I'm wanting to swap the 5 4 for a 6.0. Reason I saw 6.0 is my buddy's done egr delete. Bulletproof oil cooler head studs and a edge with attitude chip and has great power and reasonable fuel mileage. How hard is it going to be swapping the motors.
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I have a 2010 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L, and lately under slow movement (less that 20km/h it is sounding like there is a rattle. I can try to get a video of the sound later, now I'm wondering if the universal bearings in the driveshaft would be making this noise or if it could be the 4wd actuators failing? Would either of these make a loud rattle? (Sounds like a heat shield shaking but all are tight). Had a Ranger up until last year so just learning the ins and outs of F150 life.
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I have a leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. Its a little tough getting at it to tell if its a lose bolt, crack or bad gasket. What would be the best way to get at this area? Should i remove the tire and wheel well or is their a better way. If i can get at it i may replace the manifold all together.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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I have a 2003 f250 superduty v-10 -- 4x4 -- when turning with 4wheel drive disengaged I have consistent thumping sound coming from front end -- more so when turning to left but still prevalent on right turns -- I put new hubs in due to the grinding noise when driving slow to mid speeds -- like axles not totally disengaging and grinding on teeth. but this is a secondary noise -- replaced left front axle with dorman unit -- tried to replace u joints on oe axle but rusted so badly couldn't get c clips to separate from ujoints --
this one is kicking my butt and making me look like a novice -- don't think it is ball joints or anything suspension related but I could be wrong -- sounds like thump thump thump as turning in slightly tight circle or going around corner in the parking lot.
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4L V8 with no heat. It wasn't missing, running funny or blowing white smoke out of the tailpipe and there were no coolant leaks nor did it overheat. Thermostat has been replaced twice, heater core flushed twice, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced and blend door works...Cabin airflow gets colder when turned from hot to cold. This thing is sitting in my driveway and I am about to push it over a cliff. Did I mention it only has 56,000 miles on it?
Coolant was drained to replace water pump and flush heater core (again, water ran through in both directions with no stoppage). 3 gallons of undilluted antifreeze was put into the overflow bottle to be topped off with water...the coolant went in and stopped. Engine was started to force coolant from bottle...coolant backed up into the bottle and out the top. Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet hose not very warm if at all. Upper radiator hose is soft. Didn't check lower radiator hose as I was a bit peeved and slammed the hood closed and called it a night. I have been throwing money at this thing that I do not have and am at my wits end with it.
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About to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
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2003 6L 250 SD. Always smells of exhaust on the cabin. If there is snow it gets much worse.
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I have an 03 F250, 5.4, 4x4, with aprox. 130k miles. I recently had my exhaust manifolds replaced because 1 literally cracked in half. Ever since the replacement, I'm getting worse gas mileage! Im only getting aprox. 250 miles to a tank when before it was well over 325 (highway)...
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Recently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 that when you turn the heat on the trucks motor and exhaust bog down for a few seconds then comes right back up...
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I have a 05 f250 diesel 6.0 with 173k. Between 35-60 mph it has started a humming sound and when the throttle is released the sound stops. I still have power boost etc. Someone mentioned degas cap, turbo pedestal or turbo pipes cracked.
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I bought a 99 f250 super duty with v-10. Ran great then I decided to hose off engine compartment. No pressure washer just running water trying to get all the dirt off now the engine sounds like its missing. Could I have a coil pack that got wet or is something else wrong.
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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