2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2000 F250 7.3L Diesel. A few years ago we switched out the auto hubs for manual Warn hubs. We've had no problems with 4x4 since that time, until now!! The 4x4 Hi light is on and the transfer case is engaged. Since the hubs are manual we have them unlocked, however we can't get the 4x4 to disengage. At one point, tried changing to low and it hesitated but finally went in to 4 Lo, then we had a hard time getting it out of 4Lo and back to 4 Hi. Here's what we've tried--checked fuses, checked and replaced relays, checked wiring connection at the transfer case. Husband used volt meter to test power at transfer case wiring connector--showed 0.5 volt of power with the key on. No change in reading. Checked power at relay--about 14.5 volts there. Took truck to repair shop but their computer could not communicate with the GEM.
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 King Ranch 4X4 Diesel and now experiencing an issue with the front seat belts
The problem is while being worn sometimes they will not let you lean forward- they act like you have a foot on the brake pedal and are locked-you have to lean back and forth several times to get them to let out if reaching for something on the dash etc..
I have searched the forum and found many issues where the seat belts stopped retracting- but my issue seems to be unique in that the seat belt will at times 'Not Let Out" when you lean forward.
My 2000 SD 7.3 has developed a quirk. For some reason the trans has decided to shift late in all gears. This only happens once, then resumes shifting normally. However the OD indicator on the shifter blinks from that point forward. Once the engine is shut down and restarted. The sequence starts again. Late shift, through the gears, once, then shifts normally with light blinking. Fluids are up and clean.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
I've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
I have verified that my AC clutch does disengage (and re-engage), but it seems like the AC is on all the time. Normally you don't notice this in the Northwest because I always overpower it with the heater, but now that it's above 70 on occasion, in vent and full cold, it still blows 20 degrees colder or more than outside air temp.
Is it possible that the clutch disengages but that the bearings are bad and its somehow still turning the compressor? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose this or would I just have to throw money at buying a new compressor? My first indication should have been that I get about 15-16mpg when I used to get 18+ occasionally.
For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
View 2 Replies2002 F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel.Transmission trouble. Came off interstate - took foot off throttle at yield and hit gas as turn was clear. Did it fast and felt like hit wall. Immediately lost transmission engagement. Trans did not reengage until below 20 MPH. Tried to speed up and disengaged at 20 to 25MPH - just free wheel - engine wine. Went to 1st gear and would come up normally. Shift to 2nd and could get up to 30MPH and probably higher - didn't push. Shift to drive and trans disengage. No trans fluid leakage and level looks good and clean. What to look for? 126K miles.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 f350 with the power stroke I went through the hole vacuum system all new hubs, seals, vacuum actuator and fixed it all now I'm having the reverse problems everyone has my hubs are locked all the time as soon as I plug in the vacuum actuator the transfer case is still in 2wd and will switch 4x4 and work and disengage but the hubs are always in unless I unplug the actuator ...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
View 11 RepliesI bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
I have an '03 F250 Super Cab, 7.3L PSD, 4WD. I've started getting a large vibration between 40 and 60 mph. Started after driving on the PA highways towing a trailer with a car and hitting several deep pot holes.
I have had the wheels balanced, rotated, balanced a second time by a different shop and had them perform an alignment - Still No change.
The garage I took it to said the hubs were shot so I had them replaced - supposedly with Moog, lifetime warranty hubs. Still - No Change.
The tie rods and steering linkages are a year old, so unless something was damaged (visually, they look good, and feel tight) it probably isn't them.
I replaced the ball joints around 80,000 miles and now the truck has 155,000 miles. They appear to be ok, with maybe just a little movement in the Passenger side upper.
If there is any movement at all in the ball joint, will it cause a vibration?
I plan to rotate my full size spare through all 4 corners this weekend to eliminate the possibility of a bent rim.
I have another set of ball joints and seals on order which should arrive next week. Probably next weekend's project.
My '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
View 7 RepliesI just got 03 f250 with 6.0 and when shifting has a weird surge/lag thing happening. Reminds me a little of the old 7.3 surge when it was just started on a cold day. Seems to be worse in higher gears.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2003 5.4 F-250 ext cab 4x4. The speedo went crazy of a couple days, now it is pegged when off at 100mph. When I drive down the road it goes down to like 70mph. I replace the speed sensor on the rear axle with no success. Also the airbag light came home on the way to work today. Not sure if that's connected or not.
View 6 Replies