I have an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat with almost 200,000. The other day my t-stat started sticking and popping at 220 and then would go back to normal. Now it won't pop and it's puking coolant in the front of the engine. Would just a bad t-stat cause this or do I need to do my water pump as well.
View 1 Replies06 6.0
Goes from max to min line on degaus bottle every couple months. No puking or white residue. Going to pull egr tonight and see if damp. Anything else to check besides obvious leaks at hoses/radiator/etc?
I bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
03 F250. Passenger window is stuck up. When I have the door panel off, I can feel the motor trying to move up. Won't go down at all. When I connect test light to the plug, it lights up correctly for both up and down. Thought maybe it was the motor so I got a new one but it only tries to go one way. It's like the switch isn't sending the signal for the window to go down even though the plug appears to be getting the correct signal.
I took apart the driver's side switch and nothing looks crimped, bent, etc. From some reading, it sounds like possibly the regulator is bad, does that somehow send a signal back to the switch? Is there a relay or something that could be bad? I find it odd that test light seems to work but when connected to a motor, it doesn't.
My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4L V8 with no heat. It wasn't missing, running funny or blowing white smoke out of the tailpipe and there were no coolant leaks nor did it overheat. Thermostat has been replaced twice, heater core flushed twice, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced and blend door works...Cabin airflow gets colder when turned from hot to cold. This thing is sitting in my driveway and I am about to push it over a cliff. Did I mention it only has 56,000 miles on it?
Coolant was drained to replace water pump and flush heater core (again, water ran through in both directions with no stoppage). 3 gallons of undilluted antifreeze was put into the overflow bottle to be topped off with water...the coolant went in and stopped. Engine was started to force coolant from bottle...coolant backed up into the bottle and out the top. Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet hose not very warm if at all. Upper radiator hose is soft. Didn't check lower radiator hose as I was a bit peeved and slammed the hood closed and called it a night. I have been throwing money at this thing that I do not have and am at my wits end with it.
I have a question on the 2012 F-350 with 6.7. I have found after mid to long drives when I shut the truck down I can smell coolant when walking around the front of the engine. Seems more so from the driver side but i have yet to see any leaks or wet spots on the ground. I had the water pump and lower rad hose replaced last year under warranty and though it might have been residue but after a year and still smelling it it has to be something else. I only have 30,000km's left under warranty so if I need something replaced it should be soon
View 8 Replies2003 F250 4x4 7.3L
While doing my brakes in the front, I tried to wiggle the front left, nothing. Solid. Then when I did the right, I was surprised to see it wiggle when I grabbed the tire. So I looked to see what was moving.
Not the U joint, not the ball joints, But it looks like what is a drive shaft.. (I am new to this stuff). On the right side a shaft comes out of the axle just before the U joint and the rest of the wheel assy. What is wrong?
I have a bad wobble/vibration coming from front end i think i replaced hub locking hubs u joints truck dont feel safe at all took it to ford they say its normal no way its not just starting doing it few month feels like the 4x4 is in use when hitting bumps when driving if you go slight left or right it seems too make act up more.
View 2 RepliesHave an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
View 1 Replies2003 F250 super cab, 335,000 miles. the seats are all in good condition except the drivers seat bottom, no rips or tears but the outer bolster area is worn. Looked at new replacement and no go. Is there a decent cover or a aftermarket replacement that looks good? The truck is not worth high end stuff, just would like it too look better
View 10 RepliesI've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
Ok so I bought this 2012 f250 and I had a couple questions.
1. I checked the Frame for rust n it was fine. I didn't look at the other parts until I got it home. It does have some light to moderate rusting on other areas under the engine compartment. Ex axle, drive shaft, some of the steering components. Exhaust Manifold is pretty rusty though. What can I do about that?
2. I noticed a little bit of oil, not dripping, on the underside of the front of the engine. I do have an extended warranty so i hope it will cover that. It's pretty extensive of a warranty. I took some pics of the area where there is oil. What could it be?
Most of the oil is focused around there ...
Top down view ...
I noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
View 1 RepliesI noticed a moaning from the front end a few weeks back and it seems to be slowly getting a little worse. It is only noticeable when I'm accelerating or maintain speed, but as soon as I let off the accelerator and start to decelerate, it goes away. Sometimes, when the truck hasn't been driven for at least a couple hours, I pull away and there is a really noticeable sort of "clunk clunk clunk" but then it goes away and it just moans. I can also hear some noise from the front end at highway speeds, but of course it is hard to hear much else other than engine and road noise from the cab. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and four wheel drive.
View 8 RepliesWe have a lot of snow and a lot of ice up here at the moment and my 2003 ford F-250 SC Fx4 isn't performing so well. The truck is stock other than a pair of 285/16R BFG A/T's
I have been noticing that my rear tires will spin while trying to go up hill on some ice or snow covered areas and my front tires just sit still while in 4x4 or 4x4 low. In the case I just described I remain stuck in place until the rear tires can get a grip then I continue up hill. I don't understand why my front tires are not spinning as well, to me this seems just like 2 wheel drive not 4x4. I have been using ESOF most of the time. I have mentioned in other threads that I do plan on upgrading to warn premium hubs, but I am wondering if its that my truck isnt actually shifting into 4x4 or if there is a reason why even in 4x4 my rear tires would spin while my front tires do not?
I am confused because when I shift on the fly while driving I can feel the 4x4 kick in because it just feels different than driving with 2 wheel drive, but then something like I described will happen and I start second guessing myself. What might be happening? It's not that I am opposed to switching to the warn premium hubs, but is that actually going to fix this issue or is my truck acting normally??
I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
View 2 RepliesMy father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
View 9 RepliesMy Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
View 13 Replies