Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Passenger Window Is Stuck Up
Jul 4, 2014
03 F250. Passenger window is stuck up. When I have the door panel off, I can feel the motor trying to move up. Won't go down at all. When I connect test light to the plug, it lights up correctly for both up and down. Thought maybe it was the motor so I got a new one but it only tries to go one way. It's like the switch isn't sending the signal for the window to go down even though the plug appears to be getting the correct signal.
I took apart the driver's side switch and nothing looks crimped, bent, etc. From some reading, it sounds like possibly the regulator is bad, does that somehow send a signal back to the switch? Is there a relay or something that could be bad? I find it odd that test light seems to work but when connected to a motor, it doesn't.
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1999 f250 passenger window went down but will not go up. Neither switch will make it go up. I was wonder if both switch could have went bad? Any way to test a switch?
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I have a 2004 f250 6.0 diesel and my passenger window switch died today and I switched it with a known good switch and it still does not work but will work from drivers side .the switch doesn't even light up. Looking for a diagram or know the colours of the wires to switch Soni can test to see if the switch is getting power??
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My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
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I have an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat with almost 200,000. The other day my t-stat started sticking and popping at 220 and then would go back to normal. Now it won't pop and it's puking coolant in the front of the engine. Would just a bad t-stat cause this or do I need to do my water pump as well.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F-250. The door locks don't work properly, the passenger side will lock the entire truck all 4 door locks actually lock. The unlock on the passenger side does not work and neither does the entire switch in the driver side. I attempted to switch the actual switches from the driver to passenger side thinking that it could be a switch that is broken.
After doing that still only the passenger side would lock and the rest of lock unlock buttons did nothing. I have checked all the fuses in my truck and actually took the door panels off today thinking I might find an obvious problem. I know the actuators are a common problem but because all the locks lock in the vehicle I was thinking it might be something else.
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Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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I have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
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I have a 03 250 gas 5.4 trying to find out the cooling system problem. I've found what I've read to be common oil leaking from back of passenger head. I had never noticed this before but it started very slight now overflow started bubbling over.
There is no coolant in oil no white smoke. My cooling system leak is just head gasket and gasket change could solve the problem or should I did deeper?
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I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
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Any easy way to disable the passenger window control? Being a 2 door supercab, I do not have the "window lockout" button on the drivers control. I would like to be able to control the passenger window only from the drivers side. The problem is, my 2 dogs will put there paws on the passenger arm rest to look out the window. Occasionally, they step on the window down button. Once he stepped on the window up button, while window was down and would have gotten his neck stuck in the window had I not pushed the driver control to stop the movement of the window.
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Just picked up a 2001 Gas F250 4X4 XLT. Everything seems to work except for the electric windows and ABS. I pulled both window switches and cannot find any voltage on the Blue/black cables. I jumped 12v to the drivers side switch and the windows work up and down even in auto. I have voltage at the 30a circuit breaker in the PDB but nothing at fuse #7 in the PCFP. I've checked for voltage at another connector with a Blue/black cable and found nothing. I'm thinking bad cable or GEM. I have noticed that the bell system doesn't sound when you have the key in the off position with the door open if that matters.
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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My defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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Finally finishing up my 2001 F250SD 4X4 project. Decided to pull down the front axle to replace the dust seals. I've got everything apart including the large knuckle seals. Tried to pull the passenger side axle out but it only moves about an inch to an inch and a half before it stops. Took off the differential cover to look for damage or something obvious but I don't see anything wrong. The axle is moving within the splines of the spider gear but that's it. Stumped and sitting on jacks!
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