Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - No Power To OBD-II Port?
Jun 7, 2013
I have a 03 F-250, 5,4L / AT trans, FX4 4X4 with power Windows/Locks/ Mirrors. I recently had a problem with my windows and radio wouldn't work. When I would start the truck the windows wouldn't move and the radio wouldn't work. (Noticed the clock wouldn't even light up indicating no power). I was reading on here about the battery saver relay could be the problem and found out it was, so that is fixed. However, before I found this website I went to hook up my truck to my code reader/ diagnostic computer and it gave me the error code of no power from the OBD-II port. I made sure everything was fine on the code readers side by using on a different vehicle. I recently installed a trailer brake controller but that uses a cable/plug under the center of the dash.
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I posted this in the 6.0 section, but I thought maybe it should have been here since it's not really about the engine.
I bought a Kiwi2 BT OBD adapter and the Torque Pro app. Adapter does not power up when connected, key on or off.
Checked fuse #12 visually, looked good.
Verified power to booth the lighter plug and 12v accessory outlet.
Verified that the fuse I was pulling killed to lighter plug when I removed it.
I have not actually put a meter on the OBD pin because I am at work and have no meter. I did, however, connect the adapter to a co-worker's Tacoma and it powered up and I was able to pair it with my phone.
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So I just bought a 2003 f250 v10 and I've plugged in my code reader and it couldn't get any info, so I took it to auto zone and they got an error code. I took a test lite to each little connection on the port with the ignition on and only got power to some of the metal connections on the port. So I'm wondering if all the little connections should have power? If so where should I start to look to find the problem?
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I just got my truck recently, when I purchased it the power mirrors do not work. Already checked the 5A fuse and it is good. Tried putting in a new switch from O'Reilly's and still did not work. Are these switches supposed to light up like the window and lock switch? Thinking it might be a break in the wiring or motors are seized but I've read that is not as common.
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I have 03 f250 v10. just replaced the engine and got everything all connected and started it up and it idles great...the problem is that when you press the gas pedal it starts to drive but then it looses power and acts like its missing. cant get it to go 30 mph. While keeping it floored eventually it gets up to 2000 rpm and then starts to pick up speed.
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The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
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I have a 2003 F250 Lariat 6.0L Crew Cab. My wipers, radio and power windows don't work. I have painstakingly checked every one of the fuses to see if there was one or more blown. All were OK.
I removed the fuse panel under the dash and have disassembled it to look for obvious clues, burnt wires/heat damage etc. but everything looks fine. Have pushed all of the fuses in to make sure they were seated properly. No joy.
I recently replaced one of the back windows in my truck and had to detach the rear dome light and I remember one of the wires sparking. Where to start diagnosing this problem?
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I have a question for everyone out there with any insight of the harsh shifting with these trucks. I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 5.4l and 126,000 miles on it. The problem I'm having is some weird shifting that has been going on over the last six months and I feel like I am just throwing money at this problem. My truck shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th with the most violent shifts being from 3rd to 4th! Between shifts is where it Is sluggish I mean if I am not on the throttle from those shift points I switch from driving a truck to a geo metro it is night and day with the felling of loss of power!
I have had it scanned at my local ford dealership and had a full diagnostics done and all I got was "it's since truck and a nice bill to come with it" they couldn't find a thing. So far I have all new motorcraft plugs, cops, changed fuel filter, had my catalytic converter checked if it was clogged,run on two different power balance tests! Still nothing! So now I'm lost I have heard things about these trannys and the lock up but I was told this only had to do with overdrive and it wouldn't happen at other gear changes. I still drive it everyday I have just figured out ways to calm it down if I stay off the gas when it's about to shift for a couple seconds then get back on the gas it is like it never happened.
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2003 F250 extended cab .. I've only had the truck a couple of weeks... While I was check out some lighting issues I noticed that the power door locks are operating backwards (unlock is locked and locked is unlocked) is the a simple explanation or has someone wired them reversed???? If you wired the driver's door backward would that effect the passenger door??
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My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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As luck would have it I'm leaving out in the morn for 600 miles , Noticed a nail in my L/F tire yesterday went too Goodyear they pilled the tire patched it inside.. Then this morn went to fuel up my ABS light stayed on .. Did this last yr. went off after a few days but since the tire was pulled maybe its a bad connection ??? ..Jut want to be sure and scan codes
I want to scan it now to check and reset any codes But looked under the Drivers side dash can not find the OBD connection port looked on Passenger side nothing there either.. Looked under hood around fuse box did not see anything that kind of looked like a port with a cap I'd assume they cap them if under the hood .. Its a 05 S/D 6.0 locate this OBD11 port
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Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
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So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
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I bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
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I have an '03 F250 Super Cab, 7.3L PSD, 4WD. I've started getting a large vibration between 40 and 60 mph. Started after driving on the PA highways towing a trailer with a car and hitting several deep pot holes.
I have had the wheels balanced, rotated, balanced a second time by a different shop and had them perform an alignment - Still No change.
The garage I took it to said the hubs were shot so I had them replaced - supposedly with Moog, lifetime warranty hubs. Still - No Change.
The tie rods and steering linkages are a year old, so unless something was damaged (visually, they look good, and feel tight) it probably isn't them.
I replaced the ball joints around 80,000 miles and now the truck has 155,000 miles. They appear to be ok, with maybe just a little movement in the Passenger side upper.
If there is any movement at all in the ball joint, will it cause a vibration?
I plan to rotate my full size spare through all 4 corners this weekend to eliminate the possibility of a bent rim.
I have another set of ball joints and seals on order which should arrive next week. Probably next weekend's project.
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My '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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I have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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