Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Lost MPG After Exhaust Manifold Replacement
Oct 28, 2013
I have an 03 F250, 5.4, 4x4, with aprox. 130k miles. I recently had my exhaust manifolds replaced because 1 literally cracked in half. Ever since the replacement, I'm getting worse gas mileage! Im only getting aprox. 250 miles to a tank when before it was well over 325 (highway)...
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About to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
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Our F-450 with 102000 miles lost both turbos also broken exhaust manifold bolts. This truck carries tools fuel tank and sometimes skid loader on trailer. Heard lots of bad things about 6.4 liter motor now first hand experience. Asked dealer if 6500.00 bill could be reduced since so close to 100000 mile warranty and was told nothing could be done. Can not afford to sell truck now also have two other Ford F-250s newest one 2012. Is there any other approach that could be taken to get some relief from this expense.
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is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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I have a leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. Its a little tough getting at it to tell if its a lose bolt, crack or bad gasket. What would be the best way to get at this area? Should i remove the tire and wheel well or is their a better way. If i can get at it i may replace the manifold all together.
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Whats the best way to get at the driver side exhaust manifold? I have a leak and its tough to get at. Should I remove the tire and inner wheel well?
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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I went to replace a headlight bulb and now I lost electric in the cab. I have no interior lights, no power window or door locks, turn the key on, no crank, no cluster, no radio, no chimes, the upfitter switches work, the mirrors power fold and telescope. Have power to both fuse boxes and battery is fully charged.
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My '08 S.D. (5.4) has a cracked exhaust manifold, which I've heard is fairly common. Crappy Ford design. The local dealer has them in stock (imagine that, just like the 'non-bad' coil caps from some years ago, that they were instructed by Ford to keep at least 10 on stock at all times) for the passenger and driver's side. What are the part numbers?
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The exhaust leak is not too horrible, but, enough that I need to address it soon. Only on the driver's side; (today).
I'm planning on having a lot of PB blaster on hand, torch, broken stud removers, screw/stud extractors (easy outs), ...a hammer. Maybe a few cold Budweisers
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2003 6L 250 SD. Always smells of exhaust on the cabin. If there is snow it gets much worse.
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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Bolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
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Recently, I lost function of brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashers. All happened at the same time. Some threads discuss flasher relays, short steering column wiring (position of steering wheel), and fuse failures.
I checked #18 fuse and a few others. All had continuity. I assumed my bulbs were all good. My hazard push-pull switch did not feel right. There didn't seem to be engagement. At this point, there was a good chance that the multi-function column switch had failed so I decided to try replacing it. I'm happy to report that this switch was the cause of all the light function failures and now, all is well again.
Removal is done by prying the key lock switch cover off,, removing three 1" Philips head screws that attach the lower column shield to the upper shield. At that point the upper shield can be completely removed. The lower shield was not totally removed because the tilt lever was left on. The switch is attached to the column with two 3/4" Torx 20 fasteners. The upper is easily accessible and the lower fastener can be removed by pulling the lower column shield down so access can be achieved. The two wiring harnesses have a conventional harness lock to depress and the connectors pull outward from the switch. Installation is the reverse of removal, noting the dowel locator and small plastic dowel on the lower shield.
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Replacing the knuckle/axle seal due to my hub not holding a vacuum. I finally got the seal off the axle after several minutes of beating, but it finally came off. During the beating the metal shield that was in back of the seal took a beating as well and can not be reused. Is it really needed?
In this thread the pictures show that the shield was not installed after the seal was replaced. The shield does serve a purpose to keep crap out of the seal though.
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I have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?
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I got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
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