Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Leaking From Rear Of Passenger Side Head Gasket
Dec 6, 2016
So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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Have my oil leaking-passenger side head gasket replaced (along with the drivers side for preventative measures).
To ease my mind at such an expensive repair on a truck I just recently bought, I was wondering what else gets replaced with this repair.
Obviously the head gaskets along with head studs, coolant and oil, but anything else? valve cover gaskets? intake gasket?
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Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
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I have a 03 250 gas 5.4 trying to find out the cooling system problem. I've found what I've read to be common oil leaking from back of passenger head. I had never noticed this before but it started very slight now overflow started bubbling over.
There is no coolant in oil no white smoke. My cooling system leak is just head gasket and gasket change could solve the problem or should I did deeper?
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After replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
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1999 f250 with some mild upgrades. Trucks got 189,000 miles. Stole it from an older guy for 4k. In fantastic shape. As the weather got colder I noticed an exhaust leak. Took it to a muffler shop only to find that it's got an aftermarket header on the passenger side only. Is that common to replace only one side?. the gasket has gone bad and needs replacement. I wanna replace both headers?
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To all those folks that said I had a head gasket putting pressure into my cooling system and causing it to overheat, you were right. It is a 2003 F250 with 80000 5.4 l. I have had to replace mexhaust manifold bolts on left side (horrible job, couldn't get one out). Back fenders are rusted out, under the extended cab rusted, doors are rusting at the bottom. My friend/mechanic said it was time to get rid of it. I don't really have thousands of $$ for a different one, but also, replacing the head gaskets are in the thousands for a repair bill. I have looked at used 2008 250 4 door and they are 20000+++ sheesh, but a new one is out of the question. Do I get the gasket situation repaired?
It does not act up all the time, some times it never overheats, sometimes it will. Somewhat infrequent ( I had one mechanic look at it and he tried 3 different times, and it did not overheat. Temp gage will peg, coolant resevior will overflow, but is not hot (100 degrees). I dont have the really have the money to put into a newer model, but I am worried about being nickeled and dimed to death after dumping a couple of thousand into a head gasket, plus I suppose I need to have the other side manifold gasket/bolts checked too. It seems like low miles to be having issues, yes I realize all will rust, but this year, as evidnet in our area, was really suspect-able to rust.
Not worried about the body, is it worth it to spend 2500 for head gasket repair, or trade up a couple of years, less miles, etc. My worry is, I already had to fix 1 exhaust manifold gasket, know head gasket to fix a cooling issue, do I cut my losses and move to another truck, or spend the money for repairs. I don't really have money for either but want to make a good decision. Truck has not been abused and has been serviced as scheduled. Had to put on new brakes and rotors, as would expect, and ball joints too. Oil looks fine, no contamination, and coolant is clear. Will the head gasket get worse? As I said before, it is intermittent, but I don't trust it for long trips.
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I've been trying to figure out what is going on with my '99 F-250 V10, you can check out this thread for the back story
[URL]....
I did a compression check and the results seem inconclusive to me- see image.
Before I did the compression check I started to take the intake manifold off to change the gasket set and it's about 50% done. I'm at a crossroad now. Do you think I should finish switching out the intake gaskets or do you think it's more than likely a head gasket? I would hate to put it back together, it still smoke and have to take the intake and everything else back off to do the head gaskets.
Someone had mentioned a possible small crack in the cylinder wall that is closing up when the engine gets heat in it and obviously doing the intake and cylinder head gaskets would fix it if that's the problem.
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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I have a 97 with a 4.6 Triton motor I need to replace the head gasket on the passenger side number 3 is leaking nothing else is wrong with motor so I have it torn down to timing chain cover and ready to remove. do i have to take the drivers side valve cover completely off to take timing chain cover off or can I take to first 2 studs out of the drivers side front valve cover and side the timing cover off. I just want to replace the passenger side head gasket and get rid of truck.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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Working on a 2000 F150 with the 5.4 and as near as I can determine its leaking antifreeze externally at the front of the passenger side head gasket. Seems a little odd. The coolant is a nasty dirty orange color. With the truck running on the hoist it was dripping very steady off of the very front exhaust manifold bolt.
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
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Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F-250. The door locks don't work properly, the passenger side will lock the entire truck all 4 door locks actually lock. The unlock on the passenger side does not work and neither does the entire switch in the driver side. I attempted to switch the actual switches from the driver to passenger side thinking that it could be a switch that is broken.
After doing that still only the passenger side would lock and the rest of lock unlock buttons did nothing. I have checked all the fuses in my truck and actually took the door panels off today thinking I might find an obvious problem. I know the actuators are a common problem but because all the locks lock in the vehicle I was thinking it might be something else.
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I have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
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I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
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how difficult is a in frame head gasket repair?
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If you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
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