Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Intermittent Power Loss / Bogs Down To 40 Mph Then Starts Missing
Oct 18, 2014
My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
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I have a question for everyone out there with any insight of the harsh shifting with these trucks. I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 5.4l and 126,000 miles on it. The problem I'm having is some weird shifting that has been going on over the last six months and I feel like I am just throwing money at this problem. My truck shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th with the most violent shifts being from 3rd to 4th! Between shifts is where it Is sluggish I mean if I am not on the throttle from those shift points I switch from driving a truck to a geo metro it is night and day with the felling of loss of power!
I have had it scanned at my local ford dealership and had a full diagnostics done and all I got was "it's since truck and a nice bill to come with it" they couldn't find a thing. So far I have all new motorcraft plugs, cops, changed fuel filter, had my catalytic converter checked if it was clogged,run on two different power balance tests! Still nothing! So now I'm lost I have heard things about these trannys and the lock up but I was told this only had to do with overdrive and it wouldn't happen at other gear changes. I still drive it everyday I have just figured out ways to calm it down if I stay off the gas when it's about to shift for a couple seconds then get back on the gas it is like it never happened.
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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I have a 1999 ford f250 with a 6.8 liter v 10 engine. At about 40mph the truck will start missing and lacks power to accelerate further. This problem is intermittent. Some days it runs great and others the miss appears. Well I scanned and the code reader said that I had a misfire on cylinder 7. I took a chance and replaced the COP and the boot for that cylinder . Ran great for a day and then the miss came back. Same code again. What else might cause this? Are plugs difficult to change in these engines?
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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I have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
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On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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About 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
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When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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When passing or going up small inclines on freeway, my F250 seems to make the shift to the passing gear but then almost a complete loss of power. Jerks around for a few seconds and finally provides enough power to at least get back to the original speed. (It feels kind of like the lurching, etc. I used to get when those stinking GM diesel injectors would act up in the 1990's.)
It also stays in first/second as I punch it while entering the freeway and doesn't want to make the shift. I can put it in neutral and race the engine, so I don't think it is an engine problem, unless the transmission is electronically controlled. I have a lot of computer dashboard gauge resets after falling to zero and sometimes have to set and release the parking brake to get the auto door locks and windows to work. (That started after a car break in where the door electronics were apparently pinched, but that was a couple of years ago.)
Does it sound like the transmission or electronics? In the old days replacing an automatic transmission filter seemed to fix a lot of transmission issues. Not an option now, but would I expect to see any results doing a transmission flush and fluid change? It's probably been about 60000 since I had that done. (157000 now).
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I have a 2003 F250 with the 5.4 and I believe I am having a fuel delivery issue. I took out yesterday and stopped to get a drink at the gas station, came back out and the truck wouldn't start long enough to idle. It would start, barely bounce off zero rpms and die out. I checked the fuel interia switch and it was down. I tried turning the key back and forth thinking it might reset the fuel pump or something and that didnt work. I get the truck towed home and couldn't get it to start last night. I go out this morning and it starts, come home from work and now it won't. This happened about 2 years ago and I never did anything about it, but it took 2 years for it to happen again.
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I have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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2003 F350 6.0L ... 171,000 miles ... 5,100 since oil change 15W-30 at the shop ...
I was driving on the interstate (50 miles of driving) struggling to maintain 70-75 mph at 2,200RPMs. I would accelerate and RPMs would go up to 3,000 but no speed. Before I could pull off speed slowed to 50 before dying. Sat on the side of the road 30 minutes before I could get it started. Had to give it gas. No misfires just quietly started. Couldn't go over 30 mph. Towed it to my destination 135 miles.
Volts on 7Pin FICM read fine.
Checked the fuel fulters. Air Filter. Tank for debris. Nothing.
My coolant reservoir was lose and I noticed a lot of coolant in the driverside front wheel well and down the left side of the undertruck. Reattached after checking FICM. Hope that was all it was cause I couldn't find any leaks.
I had Planned to have the oil changed before the return trip before this all happened. New to Diesel engines but I like a challenge. Where do I go next?
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I have an early 03 f350 with a 7.3 liter 298,000 miles on it
Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .
I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.
Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change
Checked driver side wiring harness -- no damage chafing found -- did a fuel can to pump test no difference - and today after I reinstalled the fuel line right after I ran my can to pump test I let the system prime . Started the truck and it ran for about 40 seconds and died and wound not fire back up and would just miss and spit and sputter -- lots of gray smoke though- but it fired up a few hours later after I let the batteries sit on charger .
Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.
Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
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I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
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Just got a 2008 F-250, truck has the center console jump seat and the console lid is missing. Can you just buy a new lid or do you have to buy the whole thing? Cost? Places to buy?
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