I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
View 11 RepliesI bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
I have an '03 F250 Super Cab, 7.3L PSD, 4WD. I've started getting a large vibration between 40 and 60 mph. Started after driving on the PA highways towing a trailer with a car and hitting several deep pot holes.
I have had the wheels balanced, rotated, balanced a second time by a different shop and had them perform an alignment - Still No change.
The garage I took it to said the hubs were shot so I had them replaced - supposedly with Moog, lifetime warranty hubs. Still - No Change.
The tie rods and steering linkages are a year old, so unless something was damaged (visually, they look good, and feel tight) it probably isn't them.
I replaced the ball joints around 80,000 miles and now the truck has 155,000 miles. They appear to be ok, with maybe just a little movement in the Passenger side upper.
If there is any movement at all in the ball joint, will it cause a vibration?
I plan to rotate my full size spare through all 4 corners this weekend to eliminate the possibility of a bent rim.
I have another set of ball joints and seals on order which should arrive next week. Probably next weekend's project.
My '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
View 7 RepliesI just got 03 f250 with 6.0 and when shifting has a weird surge/lag thing happening. Reminds me a little of the old 7.3 surge when it was just started on a cold day. Seems to be worse in higher gears.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2003 5.4 F-250 ext cab 4x4. The speedo went crazy of a couple days, now it is pegged when off at 100mph. When I drive down the road it goes down to like 70mph. I replace the speed sensor on the rear axle with no success. Also the airbag light came home on the way to work today. Not sure if that's connected or not.
View 6 RepliesI have noticed that the cooling fan is coming on quite often lately. The first I noticed was yesterday when I was towing our boat up to the lake. However, this didn't really concern me because there is an almost 3,000-foot elevation gain from town to the lake, and it was around 90 degrees outside. But, when we got back into town, it seemed to be on often, and sometimes even when the truck is unloaded. Does the fan come on to assist with radiator cooling, or is it primarily for the AC? It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3. It also comes on most of the time when I first start the truck.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2003 f250 superduty v8 gas. I have a buzzing noise that comes and goes. It comes from the dashboard area around the steering column. However it goes away when either I press on the brakes, hit the signal or press my tow brake control.. And I could go days and not here it then it will be there for a few days and then it goes away again...
View 7 Replies2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
View 7 RepliesI posted a reply her a couple of weeks ago on how I fixed my '03 SD's squeaky doors. I went to AutoZone and bought 32 feet of 5/8 inch self-adhesive rubber (not foam) weatherstripping and mounted it around the outside edges of both doors, starting at the top. Presto - squeaks are gone, there are no more drafts and road noise is reduced a little. (I may remove the stripping I put on the side edges of the doors because I think the culprit is actually the rigid polyethylene bumper strip they've mounted on the upper door jam).
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 with 157,000 mile. Left the house last week and got about a mile down the road when I realized I had forgotten something. Pulled off to turn around and had no power to get back onto the road. RPMs wouldn't go over about 1500. Finally got it on the road and it completely shut off. Was able to get it home and have been tinkering with it. Stats from Scangauge are as follows:
Key on not cranking.
IPR 14.81%
FICM 47.6-48.0
Sync=0
ICP 32
Data while cranking.
IPR 43-47%
FICM 38-42
Sync=1
ICP 1532
I'm leaning towards a bad FICM but the ICP pressure seems to be high to me.
I bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 F-250, 5,4L / AT trans, FX4 4X4 with power Windows/Locks/ Mirrors. I recently had a problem with my windows and radio wouldn't work. When I would start the truck the windows wouldn't move and the radio wouldn't work. (Noticed the clock wouldn't even light up indicating no power). I was reading on here about the battery saver relay could be the problem and found out it was, so that is fixed. However, before I found this website I went to hook up my truck to my code reader/ diagnostic computer and it gave me the error code of no power from the OBD-II port. I made sure everything was fine on the code readers side by using on a different vehicle. I recently installed a trailer brake controller but that uses a cable/plug under the center of the dash.
View 2 RepliesMy steering is "loose", All front end parts are in good shape but I can move the steering wheel 4 or 5 inches back and forth without the wheels moving. Ball joints and tie rod ends are good. Truck only has 185000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesAbout to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
View 3 RepliesAbout 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
I just bought my first Ford. Its a 2003 F250 SD with 5.4L, 5 speed manual, extended cab, 2WD. The truck is experiencing intermittent problems with the clutch pedal.
If I depress the clutch pedal for a long time, then sometimes it does not retract all the way. It does this, for example, when I am at a traffic light waiting for the next opportunity to make a left hand turn.
The truck runs and operates as it should even when this does happen. The easy response is to place your toes under the clutch pedal and pull it aft to its completely released position.
The master and slave cylinder and the booster spring attached to the clutch pedal assembly have been replaced and this condition still continues.
OK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?