This morning while driving cold a fuel leak started on my truck it's a very heavy leak wondering what are the most common leaks on an 2003 F250 6.0L are so I can start there.
View 3 RepliesI have a 03 250 gas 5.4 trying to find out the cooling system problem. I've found what I've read to be common oil leaking from back of passenger head. I had never noticed this before but it started very slight now overflow started bubbling over.
There is no coolant in oil no white smoke. My cooling system leak is just head gasket and gasket change could solve the problem or should I did deeper?
My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
I was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
View 6 RepliesMy f250 felt like it had a flat as in it was "swaying" while I was driving today. as I'm pulling into my neighborhood it felt as if i had a flat. There is fluid leaking from what looks like a control arm or possibly a canister that's part of a vacuum system. I'm a carpenter obviously by my terminology used in this post. Its dark so ill take another look in the morning but what I'm talking about..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 V10 CC 4x4 long bed. The rubber fuel line that has a quick disconnect to attach to the fuel filter along frame is leaking. This is on the filter side going to engine. Ford tells me fuel line not available. Dorman products tech assist can't tell me which connector of there's will fit my truck.
View 2 Replies2003 f250 5.4 86000 miles. When I start the truck, "especially after it sits a day or more" it starts to fast "Rushes". Like the gas pedal is all the way to the floor. I have taken it to the Ford dealer and they say they can find nothing wrong. They say all fords start up fast but I know this cannot be right. If I start it and let it run awhile then start it again it starts much slower. It only rushes like that a second or two and slows down. Today I noticed that when it started all the gauges pegged out. The speed indicator went up past 100mph sitting still in park. Then they all dropped down to zero then back to where they should be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic cannot figure it out nor can a Ford mechanic. About every one to two weeks, only in the morning, after I drive about a half mile it starts running rough and stalls at idle. It behaves like it is flooding out. When I can get it started black smoke pours out until it clears. I can hold it above 2000 rpm but, as I lower the revs, it starts stalling again until it stops. I've tried blowing it out on a long stretch but at normal speed it does it again. After repeating this several times it suddenly runs right and won't happen again for a couple weeks, the longest being four weeks. I thought it might be the remote start but that theory was busted. I've searched here and in other sites and replaced the IAC but it still did it. Replacing the O2 sensors did not work. I don't want to keep throwing parts at it.
'03 F250 FX4, 5.4 gas....
Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
I have 03 F-250 with a 5.4 in it. Recently noticed the gas gauge is not moving much and seems like it will not go below half a tank. The gauge will go up however when i put gas in it. I just put techtron in it last night to see if this might work. Wasn't to sure if i did a battery reset on the truck if that may work as well.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
I have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
View 12 RepliesHad the rear passeneger side brake line burst today in rush hour traffic ..wasn't much fun. Is it a easy to do it yourself deal ...it is a 2003 f250 v10 triton .
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
I have a 2003 F250 Ext Cab 158" wheel base, 5.4, auto. 2wd
Last week I noticed a squeak squeak squeak while driving through town, sounded like the u-joint. I got home, jacked it up and pulled the rear shaft. Unfortunately I, bone-headedly, did not mark it when I pulled it. I took it into town and had a shop put in two new U-joints from autozone.
I got home and, forgetting to mark it, put the driveshaft in 180 degrees out. This caused the whole assembly to get out of balance and tear up the carrier bearing.
I replaced everything, pulled the complete shaft and disassembled it to put the new carrier on it...again, for some reason I didn't mark it. I knew I was supposed to.
It destroyed the carrier bearing again. So I limped it to my mechanic the next morning. He went through and replaced the front u-joint and carrier and called it good. I picked it up that afternoon and it was vibrating again.
I took it back and they kept it overnight and fixed it again. The problem they had was the driveshaft was coming back on the 'flex' and rubbing into the carrier instead of sliding back and forth, it was sticking.
They got that all fixed up and the wife picked up the truck while I was at work Friday. I called her at lunch and she said it was still squeaking like before I took it to the shop. I get home that evening and drive it and, sure enough, it's squeaking like it has a bad u-joint.
But the squeak didn't start right away, I had to drive it about 5 miles for it to start, and then I didn't hear it until I slowed down enough to get rid of the wind noise.
I took it back to the mechanic this morning. He called me around 4 and said they drove it about 25 miles around town and on the highway and couldn't duplicate the noise.
He said they went ahead and hit the grease zirks on all 3 u joints(even the ones they didn't install on the rear shaft) and they couldn't hear any squeaks. So I pick it up, drive through town a bit and start heading home. No squeaks.
I get about 20 miles out of town and slow down going over a bridge with the windows down, and there is the squeak again. Still sounds like a bad u-joint. But I didn't hear it until I drove it about 25 or 30 miles. What this noise is or what I need to be looking for?