Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 5.4L - Axle Leaking On Passenger Side Rear Rotor And All Over
Jul 23, 2013
Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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Ok I reinstalled the new rotors and pads clips and warning tabs. The rotors match the old rotors size , thickness and hub clearance. 2 questions
Vehicle still on stands ....
After tightening everything up on the passenger wheel and the rotor seem to have a lot of play or movement... Normal or not ??
Now drivers side hub and lug nut spindle is not moving , possible another issue ....
Passenger side spins freely ....
if I did not have bad luck I would have no luck at all with this truck
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I have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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I have a 03 250 gas 5.4 trying to find out the cooling system problem. I've found what I've read to be common oil leaking from back of passenger head. I had never noticed this before but it started very slight now overflow started bubbling over.
There is no coolant in oil no white smoke. My cooling system leak is just head gasket and gasket change could solve the problem or should I did deeper?
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F-250. The door locks don't work properly, the passenger side will lock the entire truck all 4 door locks actually lock. The unlock on the passenger side does not work and neither does the entire switch in the driver side. I attempted to switch the actual switches from the driver to passenger side thinking that it could be a switch that is broken.
After doing that still only the passenger side would lock and the rest of lock unlock buttons did nothing. I have checked all the fuses in my truck and actually took the door panels off today thinking I might find an obvious problem. I know the actuators are a common problem but because all the locks lock in the vehicle I was thinking it might be something else.
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Just got done rotating my tires on my 16 F250 ccsb 4x4 and I used jack stands on my rear axle while I used the jack on the front axle. When I brought the truck down off the jack stands (first time using jack stands on this truck) I saw that they left little marks/divits on the rear axle. I had them between the wheel and the shock support and I can feel with my finger where the jack stand was supporting the truck. It doesn't seem anything major but I can surely point out to you exactly where the axle and the jack stand met. I'm sure this is a non issue but just wanted to check in here to make sure...
No trailer attached (of course!) And nothing in the bed with a full tank of gas...so basically just the weight of the truck...
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I have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
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I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
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My truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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If you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
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Replacing the knuckle/axle seal due to my hub not holding a vacuum. I finally got the seal off the axle after several minutes of beating, but it finally came off. During the beating the metal shield that was in back of the seal took a beating as well and can not be reused. Is it really needed?
In this thread the pictures show that the shield was not installed after the seal was replaced. The shield does serve a purpose to keep crap out of the seal though.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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Have my oil leaking-passenger side head gasket replaced (along with the drivers side for preventative measures).
To ease my mind at such an expensive repair on a truck I just recently bought, I was wondering what else gets replaced with this repair.
Obviously the head gaskets along with head studs, coolant and oil, but anything else? valve cover gaskets? intake gasket?
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Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
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