Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Died When Pulling Empty Trailer While Driving At 60kms/hr
May 31, 2010
A friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
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My 2011 F350 is shaking like a wet dog, all the time, loaded with a trailer and empty. It's the whole truck, not just the front end or rear end. It'll shake a Dr Pepper flat in 10 mins. No one can figure out why. Maybe y'all can think of something.
Here's what we've done
New tires, balanced
Alignment
Replaced ball joints and sway bar
Replaced carrier bearing
Replaced passenger front hub that got mysteriously locked and henceforth destroyed.
Replaced all 4 shocks
Where to look next?? Guess I should mention is 4x4 dually with 177,803 miles.
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My 05 f-350 6.0 is giving me some problems. I have 311,000 on my truck. It had had its share of problems, at 80,000 it blew its first head gasket. Ford fixed that one!! At 199,000 it blew its second one. I had head studs installed this time. At 299,000 I had to replace two injectors, a new turbo, a egr delete kit, a new oil cooler, power steering gear box, and while I was burning 1000.00 dollar bills I put a new edge cts on it. IOne the way out day one it was 95 temp out side, the truck ran great coolant temp and oil temp stayed around 202 to 204.
Day two 70 degrees my o temp hit 235 while the coolant temp went to 210. Backed off the throttle to 60 mph. Coolant temp dropped to 202, but the oil temp stayed around 217 to 220. I can not make the oil temp go above 198 with out the trailer. The other thing that scares me the most is my coolant level dropped about a half gallon!!! It is not blowing any white smoke, there is no coolant smell or leaks that I can see, and the holding tank has no evidence of being over pressurized. The edge system does not give me any codes except for the two for my egr delete.
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So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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My husband and I bought a 09 f-250 with 58000 miles. It used to pull our travel trailer with no power issues. Now the rpms go up & the power goes down. It never gets hot nor any lights come on. It's been in the shop twice. The first time nothing was found. The second time we were told it was dirty fuel filters. The truck only has 70k miles...
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TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
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On a 2003 5.4 f-250 XLT 4 door, long bed
Running 285 tires, none lifted, factory lifted for snow plowing? Did have a plow mount when purchased used.
Had the truck over a year now & love it. My only real dislike is the stiff/ rough ride when empty, which is 80-90% of the time for me.
I know my truck & year have leaf springs with shock dampeners on the front, vs the coil spring and shock dampeners that came in the later years for a much improved ride. Also my struts are "Rough Country" which from what I understand are cheaper shocks. Had a 04 Tacoma I replaced with Bilstein 5100 shocks after leveling it & it was an amazing difference. So that's my only real comparison in shocks. I've read of guys replacing their entire front end for the coils & springs. Not interested in going that deep into it for a better ride. If that's my only option, all be happy with the ride as is.
What are my options if any? Better shocks/struts? Other than my rough country that are on the truck? Purchased used a year back & never felt the "stock struts".
I did find Bilstein 5160' s for my model truck. Link : [URL] .....
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My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect the battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not a battery, won't even jump Battery is good, the power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
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I have a 2003 F350 V10, was pulling out of the driveway earlier with no issue, then as soon as I went up the road my truck started to sputter and it died. Went to start and it just clicked and wouldn't turn over? I tried jump starting it which worked, but once the cables were off within a minute the truck would die. Got it back home and now the windows won't roll up but the radio works and the door locks work.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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How does the truck know that there is a trailer connected?
With my cab-over camper and no trailer as soon as I go to reverse the back up alarm goes off. I thought I would wire in a marker light to the trailer brake circuit but that didn't do it, maybe not enough resistance? The truck still says no trailer.
How I can fool the system so that when I load the camper it looks like a trailer to the truck?
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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Well, it seems the cover on my trailer connector got broken off. The cover locks the trailer plug into the truck side. The connector on the truck is/was supplied by Ford. Now the dealer say NLA, only 2005 and up. Truck is 99 F250 SD. Plug is 4/7 way. Where can I locate a direct plug-in replacement? I do not want to be cutting and splicing.
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I am looking at getting my new truck, my 05 F350 6.0, with factory trailer brake controller, all set up for a gooseneck. I was wondering if there was an OEM kit to add a trailer connection plug to the inside of the bed? If there is, what are the part number(s)?
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Not working at plug.
I see there is right turn/stop relay.
Does this relay ever go bad?
All other trailer lights work.
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Went to hook up my trailer today and both the trailer plugs do not work. I checked the fuses and all is well. They worked fine the other day but now they don't work at all. I confirmed this by hooking up to another trailer and nothing. Also got another truck and went to trailers and it worked.
My truck has 19000 miles so it's practically new. I have never seen this. I called dealer but they can't see it til next week and I need the trailer brakes and lights. Where could I look or what could the problem be?
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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Just had my tires rotated (which I do ever 5,000 miles) and an alignment done. Alignment appears to be in spec, but she is pulling/drifting to the right. Dealer suggested I get the tires cross-rotated, which I had done yesterday, but she is still drifting/pulling... not sure the difference. Pretty sure I have to get it back to the dealer to address, but just looking for other possible causes to potentially prevent that trip.
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