Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Changing Plugs / Boots - Grease And Water In C-O-P?
May 11, 2013
OK changing plugs and boots on 2003 f 350 5.4 (I have a bad miss and mis-fire code) First time messing with these things. When taking out the coil over plugs it looks like somebody put die-elect grease up underneath the boot at the top where the spring and the metal prong touches together. I thought I just needed only to grease the plug on the sides to keep the boot from sort of melting onto the plug. And some boots had maybe a drop of water in them is this common or any concern? Might be condensation and water does conduct elec, so not that concerned, but these C-O-P's are new to me and thought I'd ask. I've searched here and read posts about changing of the plugs and C-O-P's but don't remember any water boot coming up.
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My 2011 f250 has 92k miles, I want to change all 16 spark plugs.
Do the 6.2l plugs have problems breaking like the 3v engines did?
I think I'm going to pull the passenger fender liner to get to the lower plugs in the head.
How does the coil pigtail unclip? I looked at them briefly earlier and it looks like you pull the red tab back, then press down and pull on the pigtail but that did not work and I did not want to break anything.
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I'm gonna change plugs , hoses, belts and fuel filter on my 08V10. Hoping it works with the mpg.
Anything else I should look for or do? Is there anything I need to know about changing the fuel filter?
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Why am I getting oil seeping out around these boots? Is my turbo seals going bad?
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2003 F-250 SD 7.3L Supercab
Problem 1: Right rear
Occasional smell of heavy grease, white smoke billowing out from under wheel well (once), black fluid leaking from lower area of caliper. Told it could be axle seal or caliper. I'm leaning toward axle since the caliper is only 1 yr old (NAPA OEM).
Oddly, I also notice a loud, piercing screech when going around traffic circles or exit ramp clovers to the right. I thought this was my trailer until it did the same thing without it.
Axle or Caliper?
Problem 2: Left front
Local mech advised the bleeder valve is broken off in to the unit and cannot be simply replaced. Insists it needs whole caliper. If pedal is all the way up there is a temporary breaking capability then it slowly creeps to the floorboard, hits a brick, and keeps rolling. Replaced master cylinder a few months ago when it same. Drove it for the last 2 weeks and problem is back.
Removing broke-off bleeder valve instead of replacing cals?
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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2003 F 350 gauge indicates water in fuel. Second hand truck, the hex socket in the plug has be rounded out. Removing plug
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I need to identify these random plugs under my dash. I think they might be for some sort of alarm or remote start unit and they seem to be tapped into the ignition wires. Suspiciously like remote start plug wires but I can't figure out what unit they would be for?
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Went to hook up my trailer today and both the trailer plugs do not work. I checked the fuses and all is well. They worked fine the other day but now they don't work at all. I confirmed this by hooking up to another trailer and nothing. Also got another truck and went to trailers and it worked.
My truck has 19000 miles so it's practically new. I have never seen this. I called dealer but they can't see it til next week and I need the trailer brakes and lights. Where could I look or what could the problem be?
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Got a 2015 6.2. No where near time to change plugs, with alot accessories i have installed it would suck if the cab has to come off. Can the plugs be changed with the cab on?
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty 4 dr w/ full lenth bed. has v10. had oil cooler problem, motor oil in coolant. fixed that, then rad started leeking, replaced that. now blowing freeze plugs on block. replaced i on drivers side rear, now popped one on pass side. whats going on? i know oil pressure is more than water, did the oil cooler leak losen the freeze plugs? What size freeze plugs they are? no parts house around here knows.
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Have a 5.4l that has multiple issues.
1st, fouled spark plugs on passenger side. All of them have a carbon glaze. That side of the engine seems dead. I checked the pcv valve and its fine. I took the head off to have fixed a broken exhaust manifold screw. After reinstall when The engine started and there was a lot of white smoke from the exhaust. Then it quit smoking. I was hoping it was from the new exhaust manifold i put on, guess not. I took the intake manifold off and noticed that there is an extra hole past the back of the manifold that the manifold gasket goes over but not the manifold itself. The pictures Ive seen make me think the setup is correct, but what is the extra hole for?
2nd, high idling. Around 2000rpm's. I am guessing its because of the right side not working for smoother idling?
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I have an 01 F250 with a v10. Driving through heavy snow in 2013 a plug blew out. Should I expect this to happen again if I do some heavy hauling and should I do something preemptive?
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My '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
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The other day I was under my truck and noticed electrical plugs behind the front splash guards. What these might be for? I have a 00 F250 superduty XL model with the 5.4.
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Trying to change the pads on my 2003 F250. One of the boots is not retracting smoothly. Any recommendations?
I can't get the caliper to bolt back on and I think this is the issue.
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Bought a dealer demo last may. Truck has been wonderful. Had less the 1500 miles on it. Noticed when I was installing the lock on my tailgate that some of the plugs that cover up the holes in the plastic piece inside the tailgate were missing. Maybe some of the screws, not sure. Dunno if it's supposed to be that way or what. Just started to get a horrible feeling about it, Taft maybe something major happened. Any way to find out or round they have told me? Mebbe I'm over thinking this.
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I have erratic changing of directions of the air control. It'll be on ac it will then change to feet or defrost. then stay on that for a while and flip again. It'll then stay on that one( usually vents). I'm guessing the selector switch or the vacuum egr valve.
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I have now found a chit load of LED fog bulbs in my search. I don't want to change out the entire light, just the bulbs. How do the bulbs effect the side vision. Almost hit a deer a couple of nights ago with my F350.....don't want that
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
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