Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Addition Of More Power That Won't Break The Bank?
May 7, 2017
I've got a 2003 F350 dually and wanna add more power that won't break the bank. What are some cheap things to do.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2003 F350 dually and wanna add more power that won't break the bank. What are some cheap things to do.
View 8 RepliesLooks like a great option the Job 1 trucks missed out on. Looking into the feasibility of it. This is my first Ford so I am not really sure how the factory plans these things out.
View 14 RepliesMy 99 super duty crew cab A/C does not cool the inside of the truck very well when sitting in stop and go traffic like I always do, in south Louisiana. I recently rebuilt the whole a/c system and it works great when I start rolling. I think my fan clutch is working correctly. I have been thinking about a way to convert to electric fans and take that huge weight off the water pump snout but I haven't found a way to do it, that I like. I was wondering for info to install a pusher fan in front of their a/c condenser that comes on with the a/c system. I would imagine it causing any problems while driving, seeing as a bunch of cars have pusher fans and I could only think it would support the cooling system.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2014 F-250 with out upfitter switches, how hard it would be to add them now? and if the wiring is there?
View 7 Repliesthe stealer says that since I already bought the truck that it would cost a lot for them to put one on for me. i figured it would be a cheap mod for a stealership to do on a new truck. i guess it shouldn't be too surprised. thoughts?
View 14 RepliesI just bought an 2015 F250 4x4 6.2L (gas) I am thinking about buying a programmer/tuner for it. I am planning on taking the truck pulling a 28' camper to Florida this summer. My goal is to get the most gas mileage I can out of the truck.
View 7 RepliesTook my truck in to get the wheel bearings replaced (driver's side was singing pretty loud). Decided to have the ball joints replaced at the same time since they were still original at 133,000. Got the truck back and the steering is just not right. At high speeds it acts like an old F100 wandering back and forth and the steering is pretty tight when you try to correct the wandering. I have taken it back to Ford and had the alignment checked twice.
They adjusted it slightly and "loosened" the stearing gear box. Truck is better at low speeds but still not right at highway speeds. Ford is telling me there is a "break-in" period for the ball-joints. I don't remember my friends F350 having a break-in period when he replaced his ball joints. Truck tracked fine before the work was done. Tie-rod ends also checked out. Truck is a 99 350 CC SRW 8ft bed.
What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
View 5 RepliesWhat may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
2001 f350 7.3 Changed front injector drivers side inspected all 4 glow plugs on this side turned motor over my hand 5 time reinstalled plugs put back together hooked both plugs back up started truck and no of the cylinder on drivers side are firing checked them with temp gun!! what did i not do or do wrong.
View 4 RepliesI keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
Today I either broke timing chain or it fell off on the passenger side bank of my 08 F250 V10. Put a hole in valve cover. What to expect for repairs. Is this engine Zero tolerance.. unsure if I should expect bent valves or not and just how far I may have to go with this.. best way to test. I have a bore scope camera and mechanical abilities.
View 14 RepliesSo I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
View 5 RepliesMy Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 5.4 auto trans and I live in Minnesota where it has been -15 and my truck won't go. It has only half power it acts like its cutting out and it won't even hardly move in Drive if I put it in 1st or 2nd it will go or reverse but the engine is only half power the OD button is flashing the check engine light came on and I pulled the codes and there is 7 of them. I think its electrical issue but don't know where to start! Here are the codes, P0443, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0135, AND (P1747) which my book doesn't go that high?
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2003 6.0 that's got a rough idle and low power situation. Doesn't matter hot or cold it has a hard start issue but when it finally starts it has a rough idle, sometimes it has low power on take off but not always. FICM has 48.8 volts coming out, exhaust just had a new y-pipe (had a cracked bellow) absolutely no smoke coming out. When I drive it hard it's like a rocket no rough spots just did oil with filters and fuel filters, blue spring upgrade, and cleaned out the turbo.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 e350 with a 6.0 lt. diesel and an automatic trans. The problem is when its cold there is no power ( 10 mph max ). When it warms up it does just fine. The other problem witch I think is connected is when it shifts I lose all power to my gauges and radio for a split second. I am thinking transmission but not sure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 F-250, 5,4L / AT trans, FX4 4X4 with power Windows/Locks/ Mirrors. I recently had a problem with my windows and radio wouldn't work. When I would start the truck the windows wouldn't move and the radio wouldn't work. (Noticed the clock wouldn't even light up indicating no power). I was reading on here about the battery saver relay could be the problem and found out it was, so that is fixed. However, before I found this website I went to hook up my truck to my code reader/ diagnostic computer and it gave me the error code of no power from the OBD-II port. I made sure everything was fine on the code readers side by using on a different vehicle. I recently installed a trailer brake controller but that uses a cable/plug under the center of the dash.
View 2 Replies2003 F350 6.0L ... 171,000 miles ... 5,100 since oil change 15W-30 at the shop ...
I was driving on the interstate (50 miles of driving) struggling to maintain 70-75 mph at 2,200RPMs. I would accelerate and RPMs would go up to 3,000 but no speed. Before I could pull off speed slowed to 50 before dying. Sat on the side of the road 30 minutes before I could get it started. Had to give it gas. No misfires just quietly started. Couldn't go over 30 mph. Towed it to my destination 135 miles.
Volts on 7Pin FICM read fine.
Checked the fuel fulters. Air Filter. Tank for debris. Nothing.
My coolant reservoir was lose and I noticed a lot of coolant in the driverside front wheel well and down the left side of the undertruck. Reattached after checking FICM. Hope that was all it was cause I couldn't find any leaks.
I had Planned to have the oil changed before the return trip before this all happened. New to Diesel engines but I like a challenge. Where do I go next?
I have an early 03 f350 with a 7.3 liter 298,000 miles on it
Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .
I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.
Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change
Checked driver side wiring harness -- no damage chafing found -- did a fuel can to pump test no difference - and today after I reinstalled the fuel line right after I ran my can to pump test I let the system prime . Started the truck and it ran for about 40 seconds and died and wound not fire back up and would just miss and spit and sputter -- lots of gray smoke though- but it fired up a few hours later after I let the batteries sit on charger .
Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.
Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...
On a 2003 Ford Superduty, 4x4, 5.4, supercab; where is the fuse for the power seat?
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