Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - ABS Light Would Come On Then Go Out
Mar 25, 2015
I brought my truck band new in 2003. My mechanic said to me he just replaced my ABS sensor on the passenger side of the truck. Funny thing is I never knew I had ABS all this time. So I drove home , about 1 hour away from my mechanic ,I notice the ABS light would come on than go out, than come back on, than go back out??? I never saw this light before in all my years driving the truck.
When the light came on, my truck would pull to the right and make the sound like the ABS was applied when I braked, same noise as in my little car makes when I stop hard. When the light would be off and I applied the brake, my truck would stop normal. The way I am used to it.
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Long story short: I bought my 2003 F-250 super duty 6.0 used back in January. It had one Ford OEM battery and one Walmart special. I had them tested and they were both completely flat. Replaced the set of batteries the next day. Since then, upon cranking the truck, the battery indicator will be illuminated while the truck is running. It will stay on for a length of time that varies based on the day. It will eventually turn off after driving a while, but will come back on if I kill the truck and crank it again (like when running to a store).
The batteries have been tested 4 times and test just fine. No problems with the batteries. The OBD 2 computer/monitor I have installed reads a voltage of around 13 when the truck is running. What to do to solve this problem. It isn't a major issue as the truck always cranks fine and the batteries are not damaged or anything, it is more of a annoying thing. It bugs the crap out of me.
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OK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
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I have a 2003 f250 super duty with a v10
i was towing a trailer up and down lots of hills and the battery light on the dash came on. there was no effect on the performance right away. as i kept driving into town i was starting to worry if i would make it.
as i pulled into the carls jr parking lot, the ABS light came on, all the gauges shut off and the truck died just as i pulled into a parking spot.
i figured it was the alternator, had it tested at AutoZone (failed twice) so i swapped it out for a lifetime warranty AutoZone one (very small town, nothing other than an AutoZone)
the truck started after being jumped but the battery light was still on. i figured that the bad alternator killed the battery. the battery was 4 years old and they usually only last 3 years in the AZ heat so i bought a new duralast gold.
the battery light was STILL on after that. the Autozone guy ran his test--- engine off- battery tested fine starting---he said something was wrong with the starter (but it cranked awesomely!) running--alternator tested fine
i just can figure out why when i drive down the road i dash light will turn on and off at random times. the truck seems to run fine. I've even been under the hood shaking the wire while i had someone watching the dash and i cant seem to make the light go on or off
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This is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
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So beating the dead horse here. I have an 03 6.0 that the batt light comes on only after reaching operating temp. Using fords self test mode it shows 13.5V to 14.3V, pull the regulator plug light goes out, A circuit has batt V and I circuit has no V Key off and batt V with key on. I have wiggled wires in the dash and under the hood replaced the reg plug. I feel as though I have read every thread with not much success.
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I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
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What this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
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I have a 2003 F250 SD with 130K miles. I primarily use it to pull a race car, about 5000 lbs is all. It has all the upgrades, from studs to EGR delete. Ford replaced the automatic transmission in 2005. I'm looking at a truck newer than 2011, but thinking either a flex fuel 250 or diesel. I want it loaded and 4WD, but they seem expensive.
Anyway, I have bad front wheel bearings. I know this because of the low rumble noise and how it acts when I rock the steering. How tough are they?? I build my entire race cars, so I have a well-equipped garage and some ability to cuss, but I don't have a lot of time. A buddy wants to do it for $300 total for both sides plus parts cost.
Also, this is the bad part I really need input on. It has a whining when at light throttle load and above 50-60 MPH. This seems to come from the floorboard area behind me. Gear changes do NOT affect the pitch, but a change in throttle crowding makes it louder and weaker. It has no coast down noise at all, and the noise pitch seems to track the drive shaft speed. It is a whine much like the low gear set in an automatic trans, but it does it in any gear with or without 4WD on. The only thing that affects the level is slightly pushing the accelerator, speed, or weight I am towing.
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03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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I just bought a 2003 F250 from a used dealer. Unfortunately the service engine light keeps popping on and putting out the code P0401, I have replaced the EGR, cleaned the inside, and cleared the code. However it continues to keep popping up and then it will turn off after a couple of days. I mostly drive in the city and the code generally only pops on when I drive on the highway. I have also noticed a lack or delay of power, when I really hit it hard, I think its because the computer is keeping the egr valve open. What it could be?
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The problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
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this morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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This is 6.0 VT365 in an F650...truck runs just fine however the SES light stays on. I have noticed that with the truck running the SES light does not come on until the Wait to Start light goes out
I have read the codes using Snap on Scanner and have code 252 which is apparently configuration module (volts below norm or shorted)...but I am told 252 is an un document code...which is not very useful.
I have been working through the various connectors and checking the harness, but not yet finding the issue, as to the the SES light only coming on after the WTS goes out with the engine already running.
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I recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
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I have a 2010 f250 XL v10 6 speed 4wd. I was looking into adding factory fog lights to it. I have the factory plug by the headlight. I've read that some XL trucks just need the fog lights, wiring harness for the lights and the headlight switch with the fog light option.
So today my buddy (has an 09 f250 xlt with factory fog lights) and I decided to try his headlight switch in my truck to see if it would send power to the plug by the headlight. Plugged it in, turned the fog lights on and had no power. Actually the little fog light light on the switch didn't light up that I noticed either. So we compared wiring harnesses going to the headlight switch. Both trucks have 9 wires. #21 fuse in the kick panel is intact and good.
What else my truck would need in order to use the factory fog light parts? I know I could run new wiring and use an aftermarket switch but I'd rather it be factory.
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My Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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I just bought a 2008 f350 4wd with a 5.4... Check engine light is on. abs light also comes on sometimes. Since I plan on keeping this truck for awhile I have decided to buy a code scanner. Do they read the abs codes as well?
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So, I get in my truck yesterday and my ABS light is on. I ran the codes and there are none???? Not sure where to start.
2004 F350 V10 DRW 4x4 XL.....
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My ABS light is has been on for a while now, but I am finally replacing all the rotors, so its all apart now, and I would like to fix it while its still apart. my question is, is there a way to diagnose what part of the ABS is actually causing the light? at a glance, the wheel sensors and the wires going to them look sound. A few years ago, my father said he might have damaged the drivers side one, but I've inspected it in the past and didn't see any damage. I thought I saw a harbor freight ABS diagnostic tool, but don't know if it'll work, and don't want to spend the money on a tool ill prolly never use again...
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