Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 5.4 F250 Head Gasket / Misfire Code On Cylinder 4?
Sep 12, 2015
After replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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my 03 f250 has a 5.4 and i cant seem to get rid of a misfire in cylinder 3. i had a p0353 code but that no longer shows up. i replaced all the coils with Accel coils, replaced the plugs with motorcraft platinum. i have checked the wire all the way back to the PCM and it checks out. i replaced the pcm with one that has been reprogrammed. i have swapped the injector and coil with another position and still get misfire at #3. Replaced the coil connector with a new one. I have good fuel pressure. I no longer get the code but the misfire is still there, unplug the coil and injector while running and no change. Unplug a different cylinder and you can tell the change. I checked compression and its good. I am lost here!!!!
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I've been trying to figure out what is going on with my '99 F-250 V10, you can check out this thread for the back story
[URL]....
I did a compression check and the results seem inconclusive to me- see image.
Before I did the compression check I started to take the intake manifold off to change the gasket set and it's about 50% done. I'm at a crossroad now. Do you think I should finish switching out the intake gaskets or do you think it's more than likely a head gasket? I would hate to put it back together, it still smoke and have to take the intake and everything else back off to do the head gaskets.
Someone had mentioned a possible small crack in the cylinder wall that is closing up when the engine gets heat in it and obviously doing the intake and cylinder head gaskets would fix it if that's the problem.
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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Truck Specs:
2008 f250 super duty 5.4l
78xxx miles
4x4
Automatic
Issue:
P0300 (random misfire detected)
P0307 (cylinder 7 misfire)
Let's start from the beginning...
I was getting the notorious 5.4l ticking sound. After doing research on this issue. I found that it could be a few different issues including:
Cam Phasers
VCT solenoid(s)
Loud injectors
Valves
Exhaust leak
Loose spark plug
The list could possibly go on, but these being top concerns or issues to look into.
I took it to my mechanic and wanted him to research the ticking problem. This was my primary concern due to it was getting worse over time. I didn't want to do more damage than what was possibly already done. I told him to go ahead and change the spark plugs while you're checking into what's going on. (I know those plugs can break and I didn't want to do that.)
At any rate... the plugs got changed to motocraft brand (I know the trucks can be finicky with the parts you put back into them so I went with the motocrafts to avoid any complications.) After the plugs were changed, he told me that the ticking was caused from a blown exhaust manifold gasket (yay me... not internal parts or anything too serious. Sweet!)
I had to reschedule to get the gasket done, but knowing what it was now I wasn't too concerned about driving it. So I did. The new plugs are also in the truck at this time. I drove it the next day and right away.. I noticed a misfire. Thought maybe the plug was bad. I told my mechanic about it and he said... Sounds like a COP to me.
So I get a new COP. Okay.. easy fix. Installed it and still got a misfire. Told my mechanic and he said get another COP. So I'm thinking.. "Okay.. get a new part to fix a new part.. sounds logical.. lol" so I do what he thinks might be best. I replace the COP with another new one and it's still misfiring. The new cops are also motocraft brand as well.
Okay... next step.. he claims it may be a VCT solenoid issue. At this point I don't care.. I just want my truck fixed. So he replaces the driver side solenoid. Still misfiring..
So after doing some research on the scanner... we locate some issues that are the exact symptoms I'm having. Misfire.. at low rpm.. during cruise control.. and a sudden at idle.
This information states for this drivability issue.. to spray injector cleaner/carb cleaner into the engine and possibly clean it out. Makes sense. He did this as well as changed the fuel filter. Also did a pressure test on the injectors to make sure they were good. They were. After spraying and cleaning it out, it was taken for a test drive and it seemed okay... but not perfect. The next day.. the misfire came back.
He said that if the misfire returns, that I need to contact the dealership and see if there is a pcm update. The dealership said there probably is but can't tell me until the computer is hooked up to it. (Of course there is a charge when it's hooked up) again.. whatever.. I just want it fixed. The truck is scheduled to go in next Wednesday for that. If that doesn't fix it, my mechanic said cam phasers possibly bUT still not sure for sure..
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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how difficult is a in frame head gasket repair?
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Back Story: Ok so in my infinite wisdom I let myself get distracted when I was looking at an 01 F250 V10 Crew Cab. I thought, it needed all new breaks/rotor & 2 calipers. And new carpet and seats, then I would have a good hunting rig.
So I went and looked at the truck in the dark (first mistake). The guy was very honest with me and told me about all the body and interior issues. Even informed me of the caliper that he disconnected because he could not afford to fix it. He informed me that it did burn a little oil and it's been a while since he checked the oil. Well at that point I was going to look under the oil cap to check for any milky residue. Well I got distracted (Second Mistake).
So here we are 2 weeks after getting bringing the truck home. I already replaced the carpet and seats, breaks & rotor & 2 calipers. Well today I decided to go get some new oil and a filter, and do a quick oil change since who knows when it was done last.
Issue:While draining the Oil it seemed like there was an abnormally large amount of oil in this engine. (See photo of bucket full of oil from this rig.) Well didn't think much of it and swapped the filter. And went to add new oil to the engine and found that under the cap was some milky substance.
The V10 has 420K original miles. I have heard that is no big for the V10 but thought it would be good to note this detail. Questions I have: Should I get some kind of test kit to confirm it's a blown head gasket? If so what kind of Kit should I look for? Do you think this truck is worth replacing the head gasket?
Any chance this may just be a known issue for the V10 and I just need to replace some kind of valve? I could not find any you tube videos of a head gasket replacement on a V10 any thoughts where I should look?
My Skills: Just to be clear I don't know anything about the V10 motor. I have a 94 f-250 but have never had to dive in to a head gasket replacement before. I have done a head gasket replacement on smaller engines (IE: car and a jeep) but those were obvious that they had a bad head gasket.
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I thought I needed a head kit my truck runs and drives great till I run out of coolant no smoke doesn't get hot I run out of coolant I lose my turbo. Pull over fill it up I'm back to normal I just noticed I have sweat marks on my water pump pulley.
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2001 Ford F250 5.4 gasoline. At the most recent oil change my mechanic said there was an oil leak and he had dyed the new oil and cleaned everything up and to come back in 100 miles.I just did so and he said that it was a leaking head gasket. He said to do the head gasket replacement right or to put in a rebuilt engine would be close to same and he would recommend the replacement. He said it was not a heavy leak and probably ok to drive another 10,000 or so miles first. Just returned from a trip where we drove 15 hours straight (30 degree temps) and the truck ran fine and no overheating.There does not appear to be oil in coolant or vice versa. I took the cap off overflow coolant and cranked and revved and no disturbance whatsoever. I read somewhere where a mechanic was saying it was impossible for this Ford engine to leak oil from a head gasket failure .
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I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
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Have my oil leaking-passenger side head gasket replaced (along with the drivers side for preventative measures).
To ease my mind at such an expensive repair on a truck I just recently bought, I was wondering what else gets replaced with this repair.
Obviously the head gaskets along with head studs, coolant and oil, but anything else? valve cover gaskets? intake gasket?
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To all those folks that said I had a head gasket putting pressure into my cooling system and causing it to overheat, you were right. It is a 2003 F250 with 80000 5.4 l. I have had to replace mexhaust manifold bolts on left side (horrible job, couldn't get one out). Back fenders are rusted out, under the extended cab rusted, doors are rusting at the bottom. My friend/mechanic said it was time to get rid of it. I don't really have thousands of $$ for a different one, but also, replacing the head gaskets are in the thousands for a repair bill. I have looked at used 2008 250 4 door and they are 20000+++ sheesh, but a new one is out of the question. Do I get the gasket situation repaired?
It does not act up all the time, some times it never overheats, sometimes it will. Somewhat infrequent ( I had one mechanic look at it and he tried 3 different times, and it did not overheat. Temp gage will peg, coolant resevior will overflow, but is not hot (100 degrees). I dont have the really have the money to put into a newer model, but I am worried about being nickeled and dimed to death after dumping a couple of thousand into a head gasket, plus I suppose I need to have the other side manifold gasket/bolts checked too. It seems like low miles to be having issues, yes I realize all will rust, but this year, as evidnet in our area, was really suspect-able to rust.
Not worried about the body, is it worth it to spend 2500 for head gasket repair, or trade up a couple of years, less miles, etc. My worry is, I already had to fix 1 exhaust manifold gasket, know head gasket to fix a cooling issue, do I cut my losses and move to another truck, or spend the money for repairs. I don't really have money for either but want to make a good decision. Truck has not been abused and has been serviced as scheduled. Had to put on new brakes and rotors, as would expect, and ball joints too. Oil looks fine, no contamination, and coolant is clear. Will the head gasket get worse? As I said before, it is intermittent, but I don't trust it for long trips.
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2005 FORD F350 Lariat 6.0, 61,000 miles, and in prestine condition. Just got the news the head gasket is blown! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?!!! My mechanic says to scrap the whole engine because the 6.0 is the worst engine around. This truck should last for years!!!!!
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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I have a 03 250 gas 5.4 trying to find out the cooling system problem. I've found what I've read to be common oil leaking from back of passenger head. I had never noticed this before but it started very slight now overflow started bubbling over.
There is no coolant in oil no white smoke. My cooling system leak is just head gasket and gasket change could solve the problem or should I did deeper?
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OK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
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2003 F-250 SD 4x4 w/5.4L engine and 4R100 trans (pic in sig) . Truck has 280K on it with about 40K on a partial rebuild on the top end.
Took the truck out offroading and got about 4" from the top of the 33" tire in water (not mud.. water) . Someone with 6' tractor tore through the puddle.....
Well the truck survived through it ... albeit dirty as all hell and developed some issues soon thereafter. Codes for misfires on cyl 1,3,6,7, general ignition coil, etc etc etc
Power washed the underbody , washed the mud off the engine bay (yeah... with water but given it was caked with mud and water to fill the plug wells... no additional harm) .
Replaced all 8 COP and 4 plugs ( easier ones to reach), oil change, oil filter, new paper cone filter. checked most all the harness connections and cleaned with alcohol also. Reset the PCM/ECU and drove the truck for about 100miles and finally just after putting a full tank of gas (92 Octane) I throw a P0325...
The engine runs very clean, no hesitation, smooth idle, smooth acceleration on both light and hard acceleration. Just the damn code. Is it the gas I just topped off? After 100+ miles with new COP and plugs it threw nothing until this and runs great. Dont hear any knock/ping/detonation by ear and feels silky smooth at idle.
I really dont want to have to tear the intake off to replace bank 1 knock...
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