Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - Reconnected Batteries Now It Won't Start
Feb 9, 2014
I pulled the battery cables this weekend to install a flatbed on my 02 f350, I did do some welding on the frame of the flatbed during install and the bed was in contact with the truck frame which is why i removed the batt cables in the first place, now after my project is finished i have reconnected batts only to have my gauges bounce around and an audible clicking under the hood when I try to start, gauges bounce back and forth several times, odometer comes on slowly.
2002 f350 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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How many Volts available at plug for charging FW batteries, and what can be don to trick alternator in to keep charging when truck batteries full, install larger wires? From alternator or truck battery, if yes which battery. 2015 F350 Lariat 200 alternator.
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2000 f350 7.3 .. I'm having a horrible time trying to figure out why my truck is draining down the batteries. I can charge my batteries over night and put hem in and the truck will run for a few hours but then it dies completely. The alternator seems to be running really hot afterward like it is being over worked. I put in 2 different alternators and 2 new batteries and it didn't fix the issue.
I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
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OK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
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I have a 2002 F350 with a V10, this just started happening where at times the truck will turn over but won't run... after a few times of trying to start it I pull the key out let it sit for 5 seconds then put the key back in and runs perfect..... now at the gas station the other day it started but ran like it was on 4 cylinders... I turned it off and restarted it and runs perfect. Heading to Kansas next week to pick up my boat and don't need problems....
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Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
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Just bought 2 new batteries as one was toast, and the 7.3 was really hard to start. After installing started like a new truck..This morning temp was 54 and would not start after several attempts, trys to run but after a few seconds stops. Just bought and looks like a new solonoid had been installed. What should I check??
2003 F-350 7.3
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I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
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I just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
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I have a 02 F350 V10 4x4. Tonight I went out to go to a friends house and the truck started fine but when I push in the brake it will not release the lock on the shifter. You can hear a click noise when you push in the brake pedal.
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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2002 F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel.Transmission trouble. Came off interstate - took foot off throttle at yield and hit gas as turn was clear. Did it fast and felt like hit wall. Immediately lost transmission engagement. Trans did not reengage until below 20 MPH. Tried to speed up and disengaged at 20 to 25MPH - just free wheel - engine wine. Went to 1st gear and would come up normally. Shift to 2nd and could get up to 30MPH and probably higher - didn't push. Shift to drive and trans disengage. No trans fluid leakage and level looks good and clean. What to look for? 126K miles.
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I have a 2002 F350 V10 and one night I turned the headlights on and when the ignition switch was turned to the off position the lights would go off. When the ignition switch is turned off the lights come back on. I changed the ignition switch but the problem still exists.
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My daughter came home a bit ago and told me the backup lights on my '02 F350 were on. Pretty odd because the keys were in my pocket at the time.
When I opened the door to the truck, I noticed a faint electrical smell and noticed the fan for the environmental controls was running as well.
I'm guessing the light issue is probably a sensor or something at the transmission but why would the blower be running as well?
Early last week I finally decided to try and figure out why my cruise control hadn't been working and discovered fuse F2.34 was blown. Replaced it and went through the test procedure described here: [URL] ....
No issues and the cruise is working again. I had to take it on a road trip for work the following day and didn't have any issues for almost 1,000 miles.
I drove it last night and didn't have the issue. I drove it again this morning to several places and everything was fine.
I've got a tuner with a code reader. Would something like the above problem register a code?
I've not stuck my head under the truck yet (it's cold and dark out.) What sensors I might need to check out? Is there a testing procedure available to ID the faulty component?
The battery is disconnected for the night, but I'd sure like to get this thing sorted before I hit the road for work again this week.
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