160,000 miles and cylinder 7 is dead and 3 is dying, valves probably with rings right behind. Is it better to rebuild or buy a crate motor? Buying a crate motor, will a 5.0 fit? Should I spend the 5 or so grand beefing up this one, dropping in a 302 or putting it toward a newer model?
View 2 RepliesI have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 7.3 with a dead pedal and gauges. This has happened to me once before checked fuse 45 and it was blown. I didn't know that the po used a 30 amp fuse when it should have had a 15 amp. I replaced it with a 30 not knowing. Well coming home the other night it happened again gauges dead and pedal. Checked fuses all were good. Found this site and read about the cause in the shifter. Took that apart and fixed the wire that was broken in half. My question is what else is fried now from having a 30 amp fuse in while it was shorting out since I have no gauges and gas pedal.
2002 f250 banks six gun
banks 4 inch exhaust
My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
View 14 RepliesI pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....
My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
View 5 RepliesI picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
I just bought a 99 f250 2wd with 290k on it and my only issues are brake shutter and steering play.
The steering has about an inch to two dead space at center while driving. The truck tracks straight and doesn't wander at all. I was wanting input on what i should look at first to fix the dead space in the wheel. Its a little iffy having to steer through dead area to get steering output.
I just need something good so I can do it once and not have warped rotors again.
I have a 2003 f250 5.4 with a couple of bad valves and low compression and a dead miss because of it... I just bought what appears to be a 2001 5.4 from an f150... I am worried now this engine wont work and cannot find anything online that can tell me yes or no....
View 12 RepliesMy battery light on the dash came on so I tested the battery and it's OK. The last time the truck was started it was 10 degrees and ran for about 3 minutes and shut off because I knew the alternator had to come out. Next I pulled the alternator and had it tested and found to be bad. It was rebuilt and put back in along with a new belt. The motor cranks over well but will not fire. I checked the fuel pump shut off switch and it had not popped up so it seemed fine. The fuses look ok. I ran the battery down a bit so I put the charger on it to bring it up to full charge. When I pulled the alternator I touched it's battery wire to metal for a split second. Sounds like I need to do a pressure test on the fuel system or listen to see if the pump is starting. The truck has 130,000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f250 HD with the 460 and auto trans lifted on 38s the motor keeps over heating Im not shear what the problem is I checked the water and thermostat water pump is good when I bout it there is a trace of stop leak in the radiator not shear if that can do any thing.
View 1 RepliesI'm new to the 6.0 fords but have bought 1 its already been bullet proofed. I've put all 8 injectors in because cylinder 3 was bad. this is my issue now you can start the truck fires right up run for 30sec to 1 min and shuts of like you turn the key off starts right back with no issues and runs fine the rest of the time until you shut it off again and there are no codes. What it could be ? I have already replaced the ipr, icp, cam and crank sensors, egr o rings and the blue spring upgrade and still does it...
View 11 RepliesAs I am driving everything goes dead radio, windows, dash, alarms, everything then turns on a usually 30 seconds later. is it a ground? is it a sensor that's getting to warm? is it a loose wire? where should I start??
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 95 f250 4x4 with the 460. The guy i bought it from had a trans slipping towed it to the shop when the shop went to pull it in they started it put in gear and engine died. The motor is now tight w no movement either direction with a bar obo it. Is it possible the trans is holding the motor tight? What can I do?
View 10 RepliesMy Blower motor is intermittently going on and off. After messing with it for a while it seems to stay on. Motor may be going out. Not real easy to change the blower motor on this 2008. Haynes manual says to take the 2008 and up trucks to the dealer.
2008 F250 4DR 5.4L
I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
View 8 RepliesMy 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
Have a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
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