Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Vibration From Front Side - Spongy Brake Pedal - Front Hub Bearing?
Mar 11, 2009
Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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I replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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I noticed last week that my brake pedal seemed more spongy than usual. The next day the pedal would go down about half way to the floor before I had pressure. And then the next day the pedal would go straight to the floor. Pedal comes back up once released. I still have brakes pressure about an inch before the pedal bottoms out. Its been like this a couple days now. The vaccum pump works fine. I'm gunna try bleeding the brakes on it tomorrow.
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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2002 Ford F250 4x4 Superduty Lariat (4 door). Just changed the locking hubs to a new set of Warn manuals. I began to periodically hear what sounds like a rumbling/bearingish/howling kinda sound. Happens when you hit a bump at any speed...then howls till you hit another bump..goes away..then process repeats. Come to a complete stop, and the sound usually goes away till you hit another bump. The hubs are "free" at this time.
Heres the weird thing...when the noise starts...I switch it into 4 wheel drive on the dash...the sound instantly goes away. Click it back outta 4 wheel drive (hubs are still unlocked this whole time) and the sound is gone. drive some more down the road, maybe hit a slight bump, and the sound returns. Switch it back into 4x4...sound instantly goes away. Its not really in 4 wheel drive, cause the hubs aren't locked in...but that cures it till I take it back out. What could be causing this howling ? Its getting worse, and you can feel a slight vibration in the floor now when its doing it.
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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My 2008 ford f250 SD Powerstroke has a bad front passenger side brake rub/ dragging after offroading before off roading just rubbed a little now it drags a lot. what do i need to fix.
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I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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I'm not exactly sure what's going on but it feels like I'm missing some brakes - the pedal is extremely spongy, I have to push it nearly to the floor. And when they do engage, it isn't with the same vigor as they did before.
It's strange, it just sort of happened - I drove to a friend's house, everything was fine. But when I left all of a sudden, there's this problem.
It's not like the pads have come apart and destroyed a caliper - I had that happen to me a few years ago and I definitely felt it happen, plus once it did I lost almost all braking ability as the lines would just leak fluid.
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I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
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I own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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I have a 2008 F250 5.4 4x4 supercab long box (68,000 miles) that has a little bit of movement in the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Made it through inspection OK but it will need to be changed soon. Just asking for everyone's thoughts on brands they prefer. I have had great luck with Moog brand products in the past. I put SKF hubs on my wife's 2010 Explorer and they I would say are top quality also. Not interested in a conversion kit or cheap junk. I want a good quality unit. What brand has everyone had good results with? Are Moog or SKF the way to go?
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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I have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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