Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Turning Radius Isn't Safe?
Feb 27, 2014
Just bought a 2002 F-250. Truck came with 18" Rims with 275/70/18 tires. The turning radius is awful, almost unsafe. The stock rim and tire size should be 16" rims with approximately 265/75/16 tires. Would the larger rims have that big of an effect on turning radius? I have owned two 2006 F-250's, and they turned nothing like this truck. I have not really gotten into the front end to see if the stops have been adjusted and/or if the tires are hitting.
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I trying to find the distance/length of a 2005 4x4 onward front radius arm. I'm fitting a 2004 Cummins nv5600 and transfer case into a 1997 fzj80 Landcruiser. I'm also fitting front and rear diff/axles from a 2008 f350 however don't have the radius arms and late model f250 are extremely rare birds here as Ford don't sell them here. I want the distance from the rear bush in the radius arm(at the chassis) to the front bush (top and bottom) at the diff/axle....
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I drive a 2006 Ford F350 4x4 Crew Cab. I think the radius arm bushings on my truck are bad. I get a clunk going over bumps on the left side in the front end.
I'm assuming it is the bushing in the rear of the radius arm, but I haven't taken it apart yet because I want to have the parts in hand. I ordered a bushing, part number 5C3Z3B203AA. But it looks too small when I hold it up to it. What is the part numbers for the radius arm bushings?
Or am I looking at the wrong thing for the clunking in the front end? I just did the ball joints with Moog both sides top and bottom. The shock bushings look alright. I have replaced the front sway bar bushings thinking that was it. What else could it be?
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So after eight years my Warn premium hubs have taken a crap and developed major play internally. After speaking to Warn warrenty department and sending videos they will replace them according to the lifetime limited warranty. Problem is they sill not send out new ones until they receive the old ones, so I was told from time i remove mine and send them back and get the new ones it will be two weeks maybe a few days more, there is no snow in the extended forcast and im wondering what damage could occur with me funning the truck everday to work etc with the stub shafts just hanging there?
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I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
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2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3. I've read about this on here before but I've forgotten what the problem is. When the wheels are turned and the vehicle is going forward at some speed, there is a knocking sound, like a ba-doomp ba-doomp ba-doomp. Does it in both directions, sounds like its in the front hub area. I don't have the time to fix it myself, how much should I expect to pay a dealer and/or independent shop to do it?
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I have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
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Just noticed something funny yesterday while flushing my radiator. I have an 04 F350 with the 6.0. When I have the heat set to come out both high and low vents, the A/C compressor also kicks on. The pipes by the passenger side firewall get cold. If I set the heat to just come out high or low, it turns off. This is not with the defroster on. Why does this happen? Is it supposed to happen?
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Ok i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
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I'd like to be able to have the key in the ignition and still have the door open without the incessant dinging of the key alert. Is there any way of shutting it off without having to cut wires, etc.?
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Have my truck in signature making a very high pitched, annoying squeak from the front end. I believe it is coming from the right side because i just took the wheel off and it has a coating of brake dust on it (the 3 other wheels are clean). Only makes the noise when turning right at speed, and goes away when i straight it out or hit the brakes. I am not very good with brakes or the front end parts.. what could be causing this noise? Could the slide pins be frozen? i know that is a problem with these trucks... but not sure if these are the symptoms.
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Before I climb on the ground and go over the front (there is snow on the ground and I am still like 26 days from owning my first home and having a garage FINALLY.) Very recently the truck started to make a little low pop noise and you can feel it in the steering wheel a little bit, when I turn sharply, almost to the stop by not completely and it will start. Not dumb when it comes to vehicles, but new to these trucks so always good to ask for common problems first!
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All of the sudden ignition stays on aux when the key is removed. Starts and runs fine with key , also shuts off with key. However when key is removed all aux functions still work ie touchscreen reciever will not turn off, and door chime continues to ding. 2000 excursion 4x4
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So I've been having this problem that sometimes when I am turning the truck dies. It doesn't stutter or anything it just shuts off and will start right back up. It doesn't do it all the time either. Was also having an issue where the windshield wipers would shut the truck off too. But I don't think that's the same problem.
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My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
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Ok here is whats happening. 2003 F250. When the axle gets warm and I turn a slight left or right turn I get a bad vibration and Growl from the rear axle. I have changed the fluid and added two bottles of the Ford Limited slip fluid but the problem just keeps getting worse. The question is am I looking at limited slip clutches or do I have bigger issues. I had new Ford 4:30 gears installed about 3 years ago and don't know if they put new clutch pack in or not,
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1. Why does my front end hop when only turning right in 4 wheel drive?
2. O nly one of my back tires spin, so does that mean that when I put it in 4 wheel drive I only have 3 tires spinning?
oh I got a 2001 xl 5.4 f250 and is this normal
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Last couple drives I have noticed some front end noise on the left side. Back in May I also noticed grease all over behind the rotor. I believe this is the grease inserted via ABS hole into the unit bearing. I do not hear the needle bearing crunching while driving and did not here it in May either. I also attempted to move the unit-bearing up and down thinking the axle seal was toast but it seemed solid at the time.
Today I hear some noise while turning left which lead to the pictures below. Wet side is Driver side, dry side is passenger. Tomorrow morning I should have some time to take a look at this more in depth. Passenger needle bearing was changed last year and no issues since then......
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I have a 2000 F-350,7.3, 6 speed. Just the other day I made a turn and my passenger got her feet wet. It had been raining and I also had the ac on. A couple of days later the same thing happened, but it had not rained, just the ac on. What is causing this. I do see condensate discharging under the truck.
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So as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
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I have a 2004 f250 with some front end troubles. When turning right once in a while it will make a hard CLUNK noise and then trying to drive down the street it drifts over to the left and I pull the wheel back to the right and when I turn the wheel it feels like I like theres something hitting somthing else in the front end. I have checked ball joints and tie rods and they are all nice and tight. Some stuff I have done that probably isn't related to my problem is shocks and sway bar end links. What this could be? Hopefully not the steering box!
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