I have a 2002 f-250 7.3 diesel, i straight piped it but only by cutting muffler off and welding a piece of pipe in its place, it is pretty loud but id like to hear the turbo more like more of a whistle, it has a pretty good whistle once i get past 1500 rpm, is there a slightly bigger turbo i could put on without putting too much strain on the 180,000 mile engine?
View 6 RepliesAfter 225,000 miles, my turbo appears to have failed -- not spinning. This is a stock turbo that is unaltered. Yes, I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles.
My question is; what is a reliable after-market replacement part that will bolt up?
Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
View 2 Replies2002 F250 V8 Gas 4x4 210 000kms
Just the other day noticed a whistle noise or a whining noise while I'm accelerating. Sounds like its coming from from the front passenger side,not sure.
On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
Got a pretty much a bone stock 02 7.3 F-350 crew cab long bed 4x4. K&N panel air filter and 4" turbo back exhaust with no muffler or catalyitic converter/EGR sitting on 33" all terrians. My question is, i am looking to upgrade to a Garrett GTP38R turbo with a wicked wheel compressor. Will my stock injectors be ok to use or do i need to put bigger injectors in? Not looking at building a power house truck because the truck is my daily driver but want to build some good usable working power that lasts.
View 2 Replies I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
Found some oil and maybe coolant mix come out of one of my exhaust pipes. Trucks smoking pretty bad what is it?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
View 5 RepliesI'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
2015 with a 6.2 and 1200 miles. I have a whistle coming from under the hood. I didn't here it at first with the windows up and AC on but now that its cooler I have the windows open. I only here it at 2000 RPM or under while accelerating. Doesn't seem to matter how hard I am on the pedal or how heavy the load.
Dealer is going to have to fix it but would like to get a heads up for what it could be.
The engine was just rebuilt, 7.3L diesel. New bottom end, cam and turbo also new harness for valve covers and injectors, new #8 injector(#8 cylinder lost compression). The engine cranks and idles great. Run it up to 1800rpm - 2200rpm and you get a miss or skip. Almost like the engine turns off and back on very quick, and it makes a clank noise. No codes, reading it with a OTC Genisys 4.0. I also swapped the PCM and IDM with another truck and it still does same thing. Other truck runs fine. Year model 2000 w/ 230,000 miles
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
View 8 Replies2007 F-350 4X4 King Ranch... I have the 6.0 diesel. I am on the road to Houston, Tilden and San Antonio TX, and I am noticing a whistle on acceleration. I can change the tone by how hard I push down on the accelerator. I thought it was a radio issue and turned the radio off and got no change. Turned the a/c off, no change. Down hill or coasting, nothing.
View 3 RepliesI have a whistle from my 2000 f250 super duty when driving over 60 mph. windshield is new, seal around windshield is good (looks good to me).
whistle sounds like its on right side when driving, and left side when sitting in pass side. wife narrowed it down to the over head console sunglass pocket is where whistle is loudest.
Could the clearance lights be whistling? How does one tighten them up or add sealant to the bottom of them to seal them to the roof. Do I have to drop the front of the headliner to access them?
I have a 1999 F250 V10 SuperDuty. Just recently I had noticed some gray foam material laying on my passenger floor. Then about a week later my air vent near the passenger window is whistling really bad when I have the air on. I normally have that vent closed. Is there an easy fix for this? My guess is that the foam inside has deteriorated and broke apart.
View 2 RepliesI noticed a slight whistle last year coming from my front left hub. I pulled the hub and greased the gears as best I could and it sort of went away. Now this year it is a little louder. It only happens when the hub is locked. Is starts around 20mph and goes away at 40. Is the bearing in the hub shot or is this normal. 4x4 works fine and there is no visible excess wear on the gears. The truck has 93k.
View 6 RepliesI have a '13 6.2 with 11k on it and it's started making a weird noise since the temp has turned cold. At first I noticed a slight whistle at certain rpm's but the temps were around 0 so I didn't think too much of it since stuff gets noisy the colder it gets. Today the temps were in the upper teens and I'm noticing a new sound. From around 1000-1500rpm I'm getting a whining sound that is noticeable in the cab. It's coming form the engine since it does it while sitting and I can make the sound appear by getting the engine at the correct speed. It's louder when the engine is cold but I can still notice it a bit after the engine is at operating temps. Below 1000 and above 1500 rpm there is no noise. I never really noticed it before, but since I heard the slight whining last week I've been listening more and I know that's when you start hearing noises that you normally wouldn't pay attention to.
View 1 RepliesI'm have a 2011 6.7, 180,000. I have noticed a high pitched whistle, not an turbo whine, that disappears after the boost drops to less that the first mark on the gauge 5-10psi??? It stays consistent in tone, the mileage is good, power is good normal 6.7!!.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 6.0, edge programmer, and egr delete. I had the hpop replaced back in July. I have a straight piped exhaust system as well. I have always noticed a loud whistle at idle from the turbo but yesterday when I started it there was not whistle at all. When I drove it it would still build boost but not like it used to. I have to really get on the throttle to build boost like it should. Is it my turbo going bad?
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