2002 5.4 super duty. My truck had started to ping, and knock worse over time. I did some research on this site, and I decided to remove my K&N air filter. Replace it with a traditional paper filter. Then I cleaned my mass air flow sensor. The results were great, no more knock and ping.I will check the MPG next to see if I get any improvements.
View 1 RepliesMy truck was in 4x4 and would squeal all the time on and off. Here is the situation today, this has happened prior but i just didn't post on here until it lasted for 30 miles on the highway.
4x4 system:
-MM hubs
-all stock minus the hubs
-Pass side vac hose melted against tire (doesn't matter with the MM hubs but too much info is not a bad thing)
-Replaced u-joints in November
-the screeching when not engaged predates the MM hubs that i installed, it occurred when i had my auto hubs locked last year because they would not disengage
Trip:
-average of 45mph
-30 miles from NH to MA (route 3)
-truck was operating up to temp
When it occurs:
-Under Acceleration
-15-45 mph
- when going from stop-30 it makes a hollow tapping noise instead of the screech
- when hubs are locked and t-case is NOT engaged it screeches for about 1 miles and then stops
Sound in the video occurs within the first 8 seconds, its faint in he video but very loud in person. Highway didn't look that bad in the video but i was in a plowed sctretch other than that the last 25 miles were through about an inch of snow and slush.
It seems like recently almost every time I start my truck it beeps 5 beeps 5 times. so it beeps 25 times. what could this be and how do i get rid of it. I wear my seatbelt so it is not that. There has to be a relay or something to stop the dam thing from doing it.
View 14 RepliesI'm assuming I might have a coil going but I'm not sure. Yesterday morning and this morning I started my truck and it was fine, I backed out the driveway again truck was fine. I put it into D and pull forward it was fine till I hit about 1300rpm, then it felt trike the truck was stumbling, I went a little faster to 1500/1600rpm and it stopped, as soon as I slowed up and then hit the go pedal it started again at around 1300rpm and stayed till 1600rpm and then it went away. So this is twice now two days in a row this has happened the exact way and only in the morning and goes away with no problems. I hooked up my SCT X3 and there are no codes and when it stumbles I have no lights come up. What I should do?
View 14 Replies2005 F-350 6L diesel .... Put new batteries in it a week ago.
Been running good then the radio quit a couple of times. It came back on after truck was restarted. This morning I go to town and the battery light comes on. I stopped and started about 5 times and on the 6th it wouldn't start.
I got a boost and started home it , started to try and quit when I was almost home. Was so dead the power windows wouldn't even work. Have it on the battery charger now and it starts right up but the battery light is still on and the ABS light is on.
So I went to start the truck this morning around 8:00 and it was 7 degrees outside, when the truck started the oil light came on and oil gauge was on low? So I turned it off right away. few hours later I tried it again and still nothing I thought maybe the oil was frozen. After I started the truck the oil was higher on the dipstick so I am assuming the oil pump is functional. What could be causing this? Could it be the the gauge is not working? The truck is a 2000 F-350 V-8 5.4 gas. I'm hoping it is something simple I am suppose to work this afternoon
View 14 RepliesI have owned a 2003 v10 triton f-250 now for 8 years and when I first got the rig I was getting 11.5 mpg mixed driving. As the years and miles went on the mileage got worse and worse and now I'm lucky to get 4.5 mpg.
View 14 RepliesWell shoot, not even 120k on the odo and I've had my first major problem with the truck, and the one thing I hoped wouldn't be an issue, especially since I don't work my truck hard and 95% is driving unloaded highway as a daily driver.
Last time I drove it coming home from grocery store there was a big racket from down under (transmission area). It instantly didnt feel right - there was a slight drag even when the clutch was in, but rolled fine when I pulled it out of gear entirely. Was VERY difficult to go into first gear. Other gears shifted ok but some of them felt hard too. Would not go into reverse at all!. Slight bit of clinking noises every time I started from a stop, but made it home ok and things seemed to ease up as I went. Today, seems to be shifting fine, reverse works and everything.
Now for several years I've had a noise that I couldn't figure out. I am guessing it's related because it sounded like was coming from tranny area. Often, when starting out from a stop, there was a bit of clinking noise like a couple tin pie pans rattling together just as the clutch started to go. I kept thinking it was loose heat shield or something clanking just under the initial vibration of getting going. Never did find anything loose. I'm guessing it's internal.
I've called a couple local shops and so far no one wants to mess with it. Dam this sucks i hoped the MT would be more reliable, not the first thing to go. I myself have never messed with any aspect of a transmission, though I not opposed to learn however I was hoping to take this on an out of state trip end of May, and I'm not going to have much any free time between now and then.
I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
View 13 RepliesSo a few months ago I would occasionally hear what appeared to be a slight squealing noise from a pulley when I started my truck. It was very intermittent, so I didn't think much of it.
After a few weeks, I realized I was only hearing it on colder mornings - it would also go away rather quickly. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope, and figured I'd get to it on a slow day.
Today, I finally broke out the scope and tried to figure out the source. Didn't really find any pulleys making noise, and I did notice that when I shut the truck off, it squeaks for a second or two as it comes to a complete stop.
My dream of finding a bad pulley or perhaps a power steering pump was crushed. I had hoped to do a little Easter wrenching and put this noise to rest. So, I did what any good mechanic would do - I Googled the issue.
I'm reading that it could be the belt. Certainly wouldn't bother me too much as that is an easy fix. The belt isn't too old - about 4 years and 20 - 30K on it.
I took a few pics of the belt and can take a video of start/stop ....
I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
View 9 RepliesAll week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
View 10 RepliesI have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
View 2 RepliesI know there are tons of threads on this and ive spent hours reading through them. but there are a few differences to mine.
2005 F350 6.0l regular cab long box. 4" lift on Duratec 33". Wheels balanced, driveshafts balanced, all u-joints checked and 1 was replaced (made no noticeable difference), all new brakes and rotors recently(due to wear)
When im not towing, vibration is noticeable between 60-65, but its only slight and i can live with it. Its felt in the seat and not the wheel.
There is also a very low grinding/pulsing feeling that happens as i am slowing down from highway speeds starting at around 10 mph until I completely stop. Its not the brakes and feels driveline to me. Can only be felt at these very low speeds while decelerating/coasting. Feel it in the seat and not the wheel. Not the end of the world but i have a feeling its related to my high speed issues. It is not felt on acceleration and I don't feel it when I am moving around parking lots/etc. ONLY when decelerating from highway speeds.
When I am towing the vibration randomly gets really bad right around 65mph the whole truck shakes and its very uncomfortable. It doesn't matter if I am on the gas or not, hill or no hill. If i slow down to 60 it goes away. It is very rhythmic with road speed (3 pulses with a slight pause)
Been doing a lot more towing lately and its bugging me. I keep falling back on tires, but not quite ready to bite the bullet on new tires as the ones on it still have tons of life left.
My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 super duty v10 with the manual transmission... It has aloud squeak from under the truck when Im slowing down or maintaining a certain speed. The squeak goes away when I accelerate or if I push the clutch in. It does have a vibration to it when im speeding up. And shakes bad sometimes when I let off the clutch from a stop..
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford F250 Superduty with a 7.3 diesel. Brakes started sticking on it. I replaced all the calipers cause the boots were starting to crack but not leaking. All four brakes are still sticking. I can drive a little ways and then the brake peddle feels funny and they start dragging all four. I can loosen the bleeder and brake fluid will spray out and release the brakes for awhile.
View 4 RepliesMy 02 diesel has started popping out of park if i do not make sure it is completely in. Is this usually just loose bolts on the shift tube or something bigger?
View 4 Replies2001 F450/6.8 gasser. Auto trans. This strange thing just appeared from nowhere. Start the truck, put it gear. As soon as the truck starts to roll, the chime begins to sound. If I continue on, it'll beep 80 or 90 times before stopping. As soon as brakes are applied and the wheels stop turning, chime disappears. Happens in forward or reverse. No lights appear in the cluster. A check with an Actron scanner shows no codes or MIL. Seat belts are buckled.
View 4 Replies