Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Stuttering And Shaking At 1300 - 1700 / Radio Stays On?
Jun 24, 2013
I just bought my first truck ever, ended up with a 2002 F250 SuperDuty V8 5.4. I'm fairly handy with vehicles but can't seem to figure out the issues I'm having. I searched the threads and have tried a number of this solutions, but to no avail.
1) The truck runs smooth above roughly 1700 RPM, but between 1300&1700 there is a distinct stutter and shaking of the entire truck. Although the check engine light does not come on the Scanner indicates a misfire in cylinder #3 and I've replace the plugs and coil, but it's still there. Fuel filter has been recently replaced and seafoam run thru the tank and vacuum line. The mechanic at the local mom & pop shop said it is most likely a damaged valve in #3. Am I missing anything? Do you think a valve job is necessary?
2) When I got out of the truck tonight the radio stayed on, I tried the WD-40 fix (no luck), additionally checked the fuses (all in proper condition). Not sure if this relates but the auto door locks started acting up as well and the door ajar light stays on all the time. I saw a post about a "VSM" but what or where that is.
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My 2002 F250 Crew/Diesel/4X4/lariat has ever since I bought it, had an electronic problem.. sometimes I start it, the heat coil light stays on, sometimes the radio won't work, the windows won't work.. then about 2 minutes later, they work, my back up alarm always comes on turned off... sometimes my fuel gauge registers weird, ....
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I have an 06 350 that at one time the dash went out and I lost pw,radio, all gauges.I replaced the dash and all works, but now the radio stays on after I pull the key and lock the doors. It does not have key fob plus the dome light wont come on when door is opened. Radio stays on for about 20 min if I don't turn it off .
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I have a 2003 Ford F-450 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. The problem I am having is the dome light stays on, the map lights will not turn on, I have no door ding with the key in the ignition, and the radio wont turn on. If I press the clock button on the radio the clock comes on but the radio will not come on when I press the power button. What it may be? I already hosed the door latches with lubricant and that changed nothing. I checked all the fuses they are good.
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My 02 f250 started shaking violently until when I accelerated and the mechanic said it was the wiring harness in the computer. He said it was caused because of over revving I think it was just because the harness was old. Is it because of over revving? Will it happen again?
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I have a 2002 F250 with the 5.4 triton engine. Automatic transmission. When I reach 35 mph (sometimes sooner) the truck will shake horribly when I reach lower rpms. It will do this up to 65 mph and then it mostly stops. Completely taking my foot off the gas will stop the shaking, as well as shifting into neutral.
I know for sure that the truck has a cylinder 3 misfire as well as a minor exhaust leak, could either of these be causing it? Don't have the money to fix either of the problems for another couple weeks, is it safe to drive until then or should I play it safe?
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I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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I just bought this truck and for some reason sometimes the power windows and radio will not work for awhile then it will start working. I replaced the relay on the accessory and I still have power to the dome lights and instrument cluster. I am kind of at a stand still on this matter. I have read that there is quit a few problems like this and not very many explanations to resolve it.
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02 f350 xl with factory cd player. I have power going to the unit like the clock but will not turn on completely. I have checked all the radio fuses and they are fine. I also swapped another factory radio from another one of my trucks and it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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My radio, power windows and map lights all at the same time work intermittently. I have changed the relay. No blown fuses. Sometimes they all work and then for no reason that I can tell, they all go off. right before they all come back on (which you never know when it will happen) I hear a click in our around the fuse panel.
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The truck. 2005 super d 6.0l. 200,000 miles
The problem. After start and warmup, and then a couple of miles driving, I make a slow 90 degree turn after a stop sign. The wheel in my grip seems to go stupid for a very short time. It responds by jerking and kind of stuttering. Yet it does this only once per trip. Also it does not do this every trip. Just sometimes. After the stutter the steering is Normal. There is no vibration at speed, and no wander from side to side. Everything seems solid and straight.
So what's going on? Should I start by draining the reservoir with a hose and refilling, repeat repeat, to "flush out old fluid". Or is my pump or steering box headed for a fail. Maybe hubs or knuckle joints.
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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My 2005 yukon runs rough between 1300-1700 rpm, seems to run fine at all other rev's, doesn't matter what gear I'm in, (trying to troubleshoot put in low to see what it would do, same problem) if it's in the rough zone and I punch it it smooths out and runs fine, I've tried injector cleaner (Techron), premium gas, but it still does it....
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The brake light stays on all the time. It started 5+ years ago going out intermittently, then began going out more frequently for longer as the years went by, until now, where it stays on continuously (except for one small miracle where it cam back on during a short drive around town). I don't normally care if it stays on, but for the first time in 7 years I'm going on a long road trip and can not engage cruise control with the light on.
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My second Super Duty, a 1999 7.3 at random leaves the starter engaged after starting! Turn key off, starter disengages. Solenoid or ignition switch or? Batteries are good, and crank times are quick, but a while ago before replacing starter there were some periods of long cranking.
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So when i shut my truck off the heater will occasional keep blowing. it also has a string of LED type lights inside the dash by the speedometer, those also stay on sometimes. It's happened before and we thought we had it fixed. We had a whole new fuse box put in and some kind of module. What could be the problem? I am thinking maybe some kind of wiring?
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my blower keeps blowing even when i turn off the system, it does stop when the motor is off but comes back on once i start the truck...relay is fine.
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2005 F250 4x4, manual locking hubs, ABS light stays on. Plugged it up, front sensors had a bad signal. Replaced both front sensors, still had light. Pulled out the sensors, cleaned the sensor rings the best we could with a little screwdriver. Installed the sensors, cleared the codes. Drove the truck a few miles, light came back on. Plugged it up, same codes. Removed the sensors and there was grease back on the sensor rings. Cleaned it up again, ran through the motions, drove it, light comes back on. Is there supposed to be grease on the sensor ring? It keeps coming back in every time it is driven. My next guess would be the hub bearings are going bad?
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I have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
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