Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 V10 Won't Start / Rough Idle
Feb 25, 2014
I have a 2002 F350 with a V10, this just started happening where at times the truck will turn over but won't run... after a few times of trying to start it I pull the key out let it sit for 5 seconds then put the key back in and runs perfect..... now at the gas station the other day it started but ran like it was on 4 cylinders... I turned it off and restarted it and runs perfect. Heading to Kansas next week to pick up my boat and don't need problems....
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
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I bought a 1999 f350 v10 about a month ago took it on a 1200 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. Truck ran great till I got Kansas. The truck started to lope after I got fuel at a fuel station. Did not get any check engine light on. I check for vacuum leaks did not find any. I change all the coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve and fuel filter. Clean the intake and put sea foam in the fuel tank and the truck still idles rough. Change the egr vavle. Truck ran great till I got 10 miles down the road then the truck started to lope again. So I'm getting really frustrated over this truck.
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2002 f-350 diesel 4x4 7.3l. It stalls out a few times lately( and starts right back up) and it runs rough like there is an air bubble then smooths out. Changed 1 fuel filter and the pcv valve. 96,000 miles.
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1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
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I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
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I have a 2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 with the Triton V10, I'm up to 232,000 miles so far and fairly happy with the old girl. Just this weekend, I noticed some hesitation when at idle and even more rough running when under slight load. The misfire/hesitation is worst when going up a slight hill, when the truck is accelerating at low RPMs.
I am getting zero trouble codes or freeze frame conditions on my scanner. What should be my order of diagnosis? Vacuum test at line from PCV to TB, COP test? EGR inspection? Plug inspection? Also, how do you test a coil if resistance is not a reliable method?
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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I pulled the battery cables this weekend to install a flatbed on my 02 f350, I did do some welding on the frame of the flatbed during install and the bed was in contact with the truck frame which is why i removed the batt cables in the first place, now after my project is finished i have reconnected batts only to have my gauges bounce around and an audible clicking under the hood when I try to start, gauges bounce back and forth several times, odometer comes on slowly.
2002 f350 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto
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OK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
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Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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I have a 99 F350 with a V10. I just replaced all the spark plugs and a bad coil which solved the very bad misfire I had going on. I also just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter.
When I start the truck, it idles just fine, nice and smooth. After sitting there for a short bit, maybe a couple minutes, it starts to idle rough, not so rough that it's about to shut off, just a little rough. This lasts maybe a minute and then goes back to nice and smooth and stays that way.
I've thought maybe the EGR valve or Idle air control valve but I'm not sure if I'm way off or sort of close.
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I just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
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2007 f350. About 2 weeks ago my truck started smoking really bad, and I took it in to have it diagnosed. It was 4 injectors that were bad, so I had them replace all 8 and also install a bullet proof oil cooler. From the moment I got the truck back, it did not seem to idle as well as it used to, and over the next week, it began to blow a good amount of white smoke and run very rough.
But the weird thing is when I took it back to the shop to have it diagnosed, the minute I pulled into their driveway, it ran perfect, and they were unable to pull up anything. The next morning, I started my truck for work and as I drove down the street, the truck ran extremely rough, and seemed to be running in 2 cylinders. I shut the truck down, restarted it and it ran a little better, as I limped it back to the shop.
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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