Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - Popping Sound Coming From Exhaust And Lose Power
Sep 3, 2014
I have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
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I have an 07 350 6.0 was plowing last night toward the end of the night i herd a popping coming off the front end of the truck. My esof does not work so I manually lock the hubs and then turn on the 4x4 from the dash when I want 4x4, ok so after the few pops I heard while slightly turning I straightened out and all seem ok till I pulled outta the parking lot started driving and i had a noise kinda sounded like driving on a flat while at speeds at around 25-35mph so I got out unlocked the hubs drove it and it drives fine unlocked. so what I've done so far is while hubs unlocked climbed under it spun the front driveshaft by hand and spins freely. When the truck is rolling with no issues i locked the hubs left the switch in 2wd turned the wheel and started to make a turn and POP loud and shakes the truck violently it feel likes the steering and the truck is binding when trying to turn.
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Is it common for the exhaust to have a periodic high pitch tinny sound?
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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With the tranny in neutral and clutch out is when it is the loudest. With the clutch in their is 0 noise. The sound is a spinning clacketing sound best I can describe. The clutch is 2yrs old and was installed by a local shop using all OEM parts, the fluid level is perfect and looks brand new. The sound has come on gradually over the past 6 months but now can be felt thru the floor at the top of the gears as a rumble. The funny thing is that their are no performance issues like grinding,popping out of gear,hard shifting,etc.
This is not rolling gear mesh it is very loud clacking clunking sound coming directly from the tranny, not the transfer case, nor rears or u joints. This is standing still. Sometimes it will be a little less loud if I roll to a stop in neutral with the clutch out as opposed to gearing down to a stop push clutch in goto neutral and letting clutch out.
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Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
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My Uncle has a 1999 F250 with 260K miles. Engine, fuel and exhaust systems have never been touched. Saturday he pulled his 26 foot horse trailer throughout WA with no problems. Sunday he went to take the truck to town and noticed that he suddenly had a lack of power, and some smoke (possibly blue-ish) coming from the exhaust. He has been told "injectors" by a couple people, "turbo" by some, and "injector harness/valve cover gasket" by others.
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My 02 F350 steering lost all resistance. I can almost spin the steering wheel to each stop. What would cause that? Recent front brake rotor/caliper/pad replacement is the only thing the truck has had done since I've owned it. (2 months now). It's way too loose to be safe.
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The Truck: 2011, 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 6' box, 6.2 with 6R140, currently 40K miles. It did have an 8' plow on it. An 80 year old gent plowed his personal 200' driveway with it for 2 winters before I bought it. You can tell the truck was taken care of, or I wouldn't have purchased it. I have all the service records. He had his local dealer do all of it. Plow and all the controls were removed prior to my purchase.
Scenario: Trucks cold (summer ambient). Driveway has a grade down to road. Doesn't matter if I am nosed or backed in. Start up, back/pull out of driveway on to flat road, and very slowly take off. The 1-2 shift produces a lose thunk sound and sensation, very faint not loud. Almost Like a lose motor mount. Only will do it once, only on the first start and 1-2 upshift. Ive tried to reproduce it after the first occurrence, no luck. If you gas it under the same circumstances it wont do it.
It doesn't necessarily feel like an internal trans problem. More of a "somethings just lose enough to shift or move" problem. Sounds like somethings hitting the frame, core support, cab floor on this slow 1-2 up-shift. Its upfront passenger side. I've spent several hours under it looking for lose items witness rub marks etc...to no avail
Again it only does it after it sits or upon the first start in the AM or when leaving work PM. Not when its warm.
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Just noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
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My 1999 F250 V10 has started to lose power off and on. It will run fine then when I stop at a light or sign, then when I take off it runs like I pulling something heavy. If I stop again it goes back to normal sometimes. 161000 miles. No check engine light is on. Motor idles perfect and sounds great. I don't know anything about motors...
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All of a sudden steering is WAY to easy i can flip it one way or the other with my finger. Front end is tight no lose tierods etc and no play in steering box when you turn it the steering turns immediately.
Thinking power steering is going bad maybe over pressure? Repair will be a pain has central hydraulics lines all in way. 2000 F450 7.3 ....
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I have a 2002 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Last week, I replaced both my batteries. When I tried to start the truck, the electronics when a bit crazy. Speedometer and Tachometer swinging back and forth. Then when it did start it ran rough and after a minute it shut off. All electrical functions are completely dead. I finally unhooked the batteries and went in the house to cool off. When I came back, rehooked up the batteries, it started right up and everything acted normal. Everything was normal until last night, it started fine and was idling for about 5 minutes and it shut off. Absolutely, NO electrical power, even tried to jump start and still no electrical activity. Unhooked the batteries waited about 15 minutes, hooked them back up. It started just fine.
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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I plan on putting a catback exhaust on my 2016 F350 6.2 gas engine. I have always loved the sound of Flowmaster exhaust but over years have started to become slightly annoyed with the drone in the cab. Is there a exhaust system out there that is capable of sounding like Flowmaster but without the in cab drone.
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I have a 2002 F-350, 7.3 that is not charging. It has no power coming in on the big supply lead on the back of the alt. I traced the cable back, and it goes to intake heater solenoid. Cable is good, but intake and glow plug solenoids both have no power coming to them. I am guessing there is an open circuit between solenoids and starter. My question is, does the power come right from the starter, and is there circuit protection in there someplace?
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The interior lights, radio, and power window gauges and the ignition buzzer on my 2002 F350 quit working. What could cause this? Everything else still works.
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So as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
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I hear a whoosh whoosh whoosh sound coming from the exhaust when its warming up in the morning. What is happening?
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty 4 dr w/ full lenth bed. has v10. had oil cooler problem, motor oil in coolant. fixed that, then rad started leeking, replaced that. now blowing freeze plugs on block. replaced i on drivers side rear, now popped one on pass side. whats going on? i know oil pressure is more than water, did the oil cooler leak losen the freeze plugs? What size freeze plugs they are? no parts house around here knows.
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My 02 diesel has started popping out of park if i do not make sure it is completely in. Is this usually just loose bolts on the shift tube or something bigger?
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