Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - No Power / Speedometer And Tachometer Swinging Back And Forth
May 8, 2016
I have a 2002 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Last week, I replaced both my batteries. When I tried to start the truck, the electronics when a bit crazy. Speedometer and Tachometer swinging back and forth. Then when it did start it ran rough and after a minute it shut off. All electrical functions are completely dead. I finally unhooked the batteries and went in the house to cool off. When I came back, rehooked up the batteries, it started right up and everything acted normal. Everything was normal until last night, it started fine and was idling for about 5 minutes and it shut off. Absolutely, NO electrical power, even tried to jump start and still no electrical activity. Unhooked the batteries waited about 15 minutes, hooked them back up. It started just fine.
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I have a 2002 V10 F350 6.8L that I recently purchased at auction and am fixing up. I've made good progress already and replaced many of the suspension components so that the tuck drives straight. It does however have an oil leak that seems to manifest of heavy acceleration.
I'm not sure exactly where from as I have not crawled under the car, but I can see a drip land right on the Y pipe coming out the exhaust manifolds. There is enough of a drip to create quite a smoke storm under the hood. Any common areas to look for?
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Does this look like a bulb may be burnt out?
It is dark between 5 o'clock on the speedo and 8 o'clock on the tach.
Where are the dash lights and what type are they?
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Buddy has '96 Dump Truck. I think it is an F650 but there a no markings. It is small as dump trucks go, but has air brakes and an automatic transmission.
The speedometer goes back and forth full scale as if a speedometer cable were bad. Problem with that is, my buddy says it has an electronic speedometer.
About the only thing I can think of that would cause that problem is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
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My 02 F350 steering lost all resistance. I can almost spin the steering wheel to each stop. What would cause that? Recent front brake rotor/caliper/pad replacement is the only thing the truck has had done since I've owned it. (2 months now). It's way too loose to be safe.
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2005 6.0 F350 dually, speedometer quit working and the ABS light came on. I replaced the speedo sensor in the diff, but to no avail. Hear a lot about the cluster, however nothing with the ABS light on.
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 with 7.3L diesel and a manual transmission. While driving home yesterday my gauges (fuel, temp, volts, oil pres) stopped working. Within a couple min the speedometer and the tach also stopped working, but the truck was still running fine. Within a couple miles the engine stopped running, just like I had turned the engine off.
After having it towed home I checked all the fuses, none are blown, but there is no power to fuse #16 (15A, instrument cluster, high beam head lamp). Also in the fuse box under the hood, again, no fuses are blown, but fuse #9 (left head lamp low beam) and #11 (right head lamp low beam) have no power to them.
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I have a 2002 F-350, 7.3 that is not charging. It has no power coming in on the big supply lead on the back of the alt. I traced the cable back, and it goes to intake heater solenoid. Cable is good, but intake and glow plug solenoids both have no power coming to them. I am guessing there is an open circuit between solenoids and starter. My question is, does the power come right from the starter, and is there circuit protection in there someplace?
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I have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
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The interior lights, radio, and power window gauges and the ignition buzzer on my 2002 F350 quit working. What could cause this? Everything else still works.
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This is and 6.0L 04 135000 miles. I was pulling a load up a hill when the turbo back fired this was no fart hose blew off at bottom of rad, hose clamp was gone. I reattached hose but now I have lost some power and getting poor fuel mileage. I think turbo is making a howling noise at higher rpms I pressure tested the system does not seem to be any leaks, I'm assuming there something wrong with the turbo, but is it possible the hose clamp was sucked into the rad?
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I have a 2002 F450 2WD AT with the common Dana 80 4.88:1 posi rear diff. If I change the ring & pinion to 4:10 do I need to change the carrier or does my current carrier fit 4:10 & lower [4.63,4.88, 5.13 etc]? Will I need to adjust my speedo readings & if so how is this accomplished? Electronically via the diagnostic port?
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
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I have a 02 F250 V10. When I am pulling a trailer and began to travel over 50 MPH the truck feels like its moving left to right almost like its sliding on ice. Its worse the more weight I am pulling. When I am not pulling anything there is no issues. The trailers I am pulling are gooseneck trailers. What would cause this.
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My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
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I have a 02 F350 V10 4x4. Tonight I went out to go to a friends house and the truck started fine but when I push in the brake it will not release the lock on the shifter. You can hear a click noise when you push in the brake pedal.
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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