Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - How To Remove Spark Plug Wire Bolt
Apr 10, 2014
Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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I have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 SD with 5.4L Automatic for a project with my daughter. After removing the fuel rail and the coil pack on the driver side I noticed two spark plug holes had oil in it almost to the top of the plug. I'm guessing it is a bad rocker cover gasket that is allowing oil to leak into the plugwells? Nothing I could find on the internet relating to this.
After removing the rocker cover the silicone gasket was intact but wet with oil. I purchased a replacement Felpro gasket but now understand they might need grommets for the crazy bolts Ford uses to hold the cover on the head.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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About a week ago I blew #10 spark plug out of my 1999 super duty. I was able to screw it back in, though it only has 2 1/2 threads now, and was able to put 12 ft/lb's of torque on it. I am driving it around and it is running fine but i am wondering if i am sitting on a ticking time bomb thats gonna blow at a random time, and if so what should i do about it. Should i just run it until the plug fully blows out, or is there an easier and cheaper fix that i could do if i fix it before the threads are fully stripped out. I have heard about Time Serts, but without pulling the head i would be scared of having a metal shaving get down into my cylinder and scratch the hell outta it.
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I installed a reverse camera to my new Pioneer in-dash nav head unit this morning. I wired (at the rear of the truck) the power signal lead to the reverse wire at the trailer connector. I also need to wire a reverse signal input into the back of the head unit. I really do not want to run a power lead from the rear of the truck to the cab. Is there a wire under the dash I can tap into, or could I use the wire going to the backup alarm that’s somewhere under the dash (if I can find it). 2010 F350 deisel, crew cab, 4WD, long bed.
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I am putting work lights and LED warning lights on the back rack of the 2014 F350 diesel in work. Where are the wires for the upfitter switches, and are they prewired into the fuse box, or do i have to hook them up?
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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What is the spark plug pattern on the 460 n where the wires go on the cap. And also how to time it.
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I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
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I am changing the plugs in my 98 e150 today and I was thinking it was a .54 gap and 13 ft/lbs to tighten them. That sound about right?
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I am getting ready to make a set of front shackles for my truck for a temporary lift solution to fit my 35s until i can afford a complete suspension lift kit. I cannot for the life of me find the size of the hole for the bolts. I don't wanna drill it too big then have play in the shackle. My stockers are still installed so I don't have those to measure just yet. Need to verify the diameter hole i need to drill? and stock shackles look to be about 5.25" center to center, from what i can measure with them installed on the truck? so 2" lift, the new shackles will need to be about 9.25" center to center, right? (add 4", nets a 2" lift?)
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The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
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I have a 2006 F250 5.4L. I was getting a noticeable misfire after not driving the truck for a while. Mode 6 revealed that cylinder #8 was misfiring.
I took off the coil/boot and there was coolant on the tip of the boot and some at the bottom of the spark plug well.
I cleaned everything up and put everything back together and that took care of that problem when I started the car. I also stuck a wad of paper towel by the intake manifold nearest spark plug number 8 and tightened the manifold bolts down a little. Some of them were not as tight as others.
I went back today and started the vehicle and it has the same problem again!
I took a look at the paper towel and it was totally dry! There is no coolant around the top of the spark plug well - only in the bottom of it. Where is this coolant even coming from? There are no coolant lines near cylinder #8. Is this a head gasket leak?
I have taken a look at the head gasket and that doesn't seem possible since the head gasket does not seal around the spark plug well at all as far as I can tell.
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My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
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Installing a back up camera and need to locate reverse lights on driver's side at rear bumper. What color wire is for the reverse lights on a 2003 F-350 (truck in my sig)?
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
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I've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
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