Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - Drivetrain Noise Noticeable At Around 50 MPH
Sep 30, 2015
Drivetrain noise I cannot diagnose. I have a 2002 F350 diesel and have noticed over the past couple thousand miles a noise from the drivetrain that is hardtop identify. It is not brake related ( new and unaffected by brake application) and not rpm related. Most noticeable at around 50mph. Not tires and they are new and noise persists.
Front end has been apart for new hubs, brakes, rotors, wheel bearings. Noise continues. It has an oscillating quality and is somewhat like a lower pitch whine which gets more prominent as speed increases. Wondering about bearings associated with drive shafts? Are there some things I can check underneath to diagnose the issue?
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I have a 04 F350 srw , 6.8 . Recently developed loud whine from the rear . I had the differential (10.5 sterling ) completely rebuilt . It quieted way down . But I still had a couple of high pitched whines . Took it back and had the rebuilder ride with me . At first he couldn't hear it ( it can be faint but gets louder under a load , I pull a 40' trailer and didn't have it with me), when he finally started hearing it he said it might be a planetary making a little noise, just watch it . So I made a short run (450miles RT) . Same noises but I noticed that sometimes when I stopped and got fuel , it would quiet down for 50 or so miles . I got to thinking maybe it could be a rear wheel bearing going bad and the sound transferring through the axle to the drive line . It only did it accelerating ( before and after rebuild ) and got louder going up a hill .
Today I drove it in to town and parked it ( still the same ) and a couple of hours later after a cold front came through ( maybe 10 Deg. temp change) I got in and the noise was about 90% gone , but at 45 to 60 mph. it vibrates . Let off the gas , vibrates ,, Put it in neutral- vibrates, revved the engine in neutral - vibrates and no change from rpm diff. . As long as its rolling between 45-60 , it vibrates . Hit the brakes- vibrates.. I have had 3 mechanics check it out ( 2 good ones and one that the other 2 take what they cant figure out ). Left them all scratching their heads. Checked the driveline and I changed one U joint (prior to the short run ). All seems tight .
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I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
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I have an '02 F350 PS. Recently I have been hearing a crackling noise coming from under the dash on the drivers side sometimes at idle but more often when driving. Th strange thing about it is that the noise stops as soon as there is any pressure on the brake pedal. The noise sounds electrical in nature but I can't be sure. I want to crawl under the dash to try and ID the source but it is not consistent and I have not been able to do so when I hear it. What it might be?
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I have a 2002 F350 Triton V10, Automatic 4x4 Lariat. I have a tapping noise in my motor, and I've had people tell me it could be the timing chain slapping around, a rod or lifter. The tapping noise gets quieter after the motor has warmed up, but gets louder when given gas. I've been told to try thicker oil, pure gasoline (no ethanol), The truck runs fine for the most part except for a vacuum leak on the top part of the motor underneath the throttle body. I have someone that says they can work on the motor and so on. But I don't know where to look to buy the parts for the motor, and what I should have replaced, while he's got the motor out and apart, so far he said he'd change the lifters, timing chain, the vacuum leak.
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02 f250 SD 5.4 zf6 manual xcase ext cab long bed...
When I'm cruising down the highway it's most noticeable. 5th gear anywhere from 65mph+ I'll let off the gas and it'll make a "errrRRRt" until I press the gas again. I've recently installed new :
- Front u joints, ball joints, hub assemblies, rotors, calipers, pads
- Rear drive shaft u joints
- Front diff fluid
- Trans fluid
- Tcase fluid
- 4" zone lift kit
All of these things did nothing to effect the noise. it seems to be coming from between the clutch and rear shaft (either clutch, trans, tcase). I don't think it is a motor noise or suspension noise.
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Having a problem with my truck and I'm stuck. About 9 months ago my 4wd stopped working. Turn the switch and no light or noise. I took a look at fuses and everything was good there. I let it go but now I need 4wd. Today I checked every fuse and all of them were good. I moved to the relays checked them and they were good but for the heck of it replaced them. Checked for power at the pins. The one that needed power had power. Next I went to the switch had 12 volts there. Pulled switch and test with a multimeter and ohms were good. Went. Down to the motor and tested for power there not power to the motor. Is there anything else I'm missing Esof not working. 2002 f350 7.3 auto....
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I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
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I have a 02 F350 V10 4x4. Tonight I went out to go to a friends house and the truck started fine but when I push in the brake it will not release the lock on the shifter. You can hear a click noise when you push in the brake pedal.
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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2002 F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel.Transmission trouble. Came off interstate - took foot off throttle at yield and hit gas as turn was clear. Did it fast and felt like hit wall. Immediately lost transmission engagement. Trans did not reengage until below 20 MPH. Tried to speed up and disengaged at 20 to 25MPH - just free wheel - engine wine. Went to 1st gear and would come up normally. Shift to 2nd and could get up to 30MPH and probably higher - didn't push. Shift to drive and trans disengage. No trans fluid leakage and level looks good and clean. What to look for? 126K miles.
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
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I have a 2002 F350 V10 and one night I turned the headlights on and when the ignition switch was turned to the off position the lights would go off. When the ignition switch is turned off the lights come back on. I changed the ignition switch but the problem still exists.
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My daughter came home a bit ago and told me the backup lights on my '02 F350 were on. Pretty odd because the keys were in my pocket at the time.
When I opened the door to the truck, I noticed a faint electrical smell and noticed the fan for the environmental controls was running as well.
I'm guessing the light issue is probably a sensor or something at the transmission but why would the blower be running as well?
Early last week I finally decided to try and figure out why my cruise control hadn't been working and discovered fuse F2.34 was blown. Replaced it and went through the test procedure described here: [URL] ....
No issues and the cruise is working again. I had to take it on a road trip for work the following day and didn't have any issues for almost 1,000 miles.
I drove it last night and didn't have the issue. I drove it again this morning to several places and everything was fine.
I've got a tuner with a code reader. Would something like the above problem register a code?
I've not stuck my head under the truck yet (it's cold and dark out.) What sensors I might need to check out? Is there a testing procedure available to ID the faulty component?
The battery is disconnected for the night, but I'd sure like to get this thing sorted before I hit the road for work again this week.
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My 02 F350 steering lost all resistance. I can almost spin the steering wheel to each stop. What would cause that? Recent front brake rotor/caliper/pad replacement is the only thing the truck has had done since I've owned it. (2 months now). It's way too loose to be safe.
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2002 f350 7.3 ... problems started all of a sudden one day. I have an edge evolution tuner in my stroke. I have it set to make all of my shifts firm. One day it started shifting really sluggish between 1st and 2nd gears only. It don't do it all the time, but it does it more often then it doesn't. I have also noticed when i come to a complete stop and then start out again it seems that it doesn't downshift all the way back to first and when i hit the gas it seems to kinda be stuck between gears and it barely moves until i get the rpms up before it will ease its way into 2nd and the converter locks up.
It shifts a through all the other gears just fine nice and firm like it should, its just the shift between 1st and 2nd. Im wondering if maybe it might be the speed sensors or maybe the tranny filter is getting clogged up? The fluid in it is still nice and red and up to the level it should be. I just bought the truck in october and the fluid was nice and red when i bought it, but who knows if they changed the filter. I have had NO tranny problems with it up until a few days ago when this little problem started.
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