Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - Crackling Noise Under The Dash
Mar 2, 2017
I have an '02 F350 PS. Recently I have been hearing a crackling noise coming from under the dash on the drivers side sometimes at idle but more often when driving. Th strange thing about it is that the noise stops as soon as there is any pressure on the brake pedal. The noise sounds electrical in nature but I can't be sure. I want to crawl under the dash to try and ID the source but it is not consistent and I have not been able to do so when I hear it. What it might be?
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4x4 dash indicator light stopped working on my father's 2002 F-350 V10 about 8 years ago and I'm trying to see if I can fix that problem.
Unsure exactly when this problem began, but when a mechanic replaced front wheel hub about 8~9 years ago, automatic hub lock stopped working. Back then, I thought that is why 4x4 indicator stopped working.
When I removed hub to replace ball joint 2 years ago, I discovered yellow O ring was not installed and that was the reason why automatic hub lock stopped working. Now I installed new O ring and vacuum seal, automatic hub lock works. However, 4x4 indicator on the dash still does not work.
I thought may be bulb went out, but when I tested dash bulbs with self test mode, 4x4 indicator light turns on. Also I believe that lamp is LED not regular bulb.
When I pulled DTC, I get P1879 - Powertrain Transmission Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure. From what I searched this indicates failure at vacuum solenoid for front hub locks, but it is working fine. What is going on?
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I have a 2014 f250 with the my ford touch radio. In February I had to have the audio control module replaced because it was shorting out internally. Since then I've had a crackling noise in my speakers when the radio is turned up over half way. I'm about to drop it off at the dealer for the 3rd time and I'm going crazy!
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I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
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I have a 2002 F350 Triton V10, Automatic 4x4 Lariat. I have a tapping noise in my motor, and I've had people tell me it could be the timing chain slapping around, a rod or lifter. The tapping noise gets quieter after the motor has warmed up, but gets louder when given gas. I've been told to try thicker oil, pure gasoline (no ethanol), The truck runs fine for the most part except for a vacuum leak on the top part of the motor underneath the throttle body. I have someone that says they can work on the motor and so on. But I don't know where to look to buy the parts for the motor, and what I should have replaced, while he's got the motor out and apart, so far he said he'd change the lifters, timing chain, the vacuum leak.
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Drivetrain noise I cannot diagnose. I have a 2002 F350 diesel and have noticed over the past couple thousand miles a noise from the drivetrain that is hardtop identify. It is not brake related ( new and unaffected by brake application) and not rpm related. Most noticeable at around 50mph. Not tires and they are new and noise persists.
Front end has been apart for new hubs, brakes, rotors, wheel bearings. Noise continues. It has an oscillating quality and is somewhat like a lower pitch whine which gets more prominent as speed increases. Wondering about bearings associated with drive shafts? Are there some things I can check underneath to diagnose the issue?
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Having a problem with my truck and I'm stuck. About 9 months ago my 4wd stopped working. Turn the switch and no light or noise. I took a look at fuses and everything was good there. I let it go but now I need 4wd. Today I checked every fuse and all of them were good. I moved to the relays checked them and they were good but for the heck of it replaced them. Checked for power at the pins. The one that needed power had power. Next I went to the switch had 12 volts there. Pulled switch and test with a multimeter and ohms were good. Went. Down to the motor and tested for power there not power to the motor. Is there anything else I'm missing Esof not working. 2002 f350 7.3 auto....
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My 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
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I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
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I need to remove the panel to the left of the dash that has the headlight switch and AC outlet in it.
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2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
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I did this years ago in my 04 Mini Cooper, although there were no vacuum lines, just about a 30 wire wiring harness. simple enough, extended each wire 1 by 1 so it reached where i needed it to be for the new location.
How hard would this be to move it? i haven't even taken the control panel out of the dash yet, i will do that tomorrow and see what's back there, it's been a while since i removed one so i don't recall what the wires were like, if there were vacuum lines, etc.
Until tomorrow when i can look for myself, if there is enough slack in the entire harness/vacuum lines/etc to move it slightly up/down/left/right, but in the same general area? I don't really want to move it, but here's the reasoning. my Joying android double din head unit doesn't fit. it fits in the opening in the dash behind the bezel:
And I've trimmed the little "lips/tabs" on the bezel radio opening completely off, there's nothing else to trim, and the plastic trim around the face of the radio prevents it from sliding in flush with the bezel, so the face of the screen is parallel with the face of the a/c controls, like the stock radio is.
kind of hard to tell but if you look close where the sanding marks are, it's completely flat with the main part of the bezel. normal double din installs in 99-04's i believe you only have to trim either the top/bottom, or the side tabs depending on the unit/stereo installation kit/trim pieces, but usually double dins will fit after trimming these tabs. this android unit is slightly larger due to the plastic trim around the screen (not removable, it's part of the actual screen) so that's why i'm having a hard time.
The only thing i can think of is to completely remove that plastic "bar" that's right in between the radio and the a/c controls, the one that's sort of rounded on the front. if i remove that, the radio will fit, but then it will cut into the a/c controls. now i'm not sure if i can maybe trim more bezel off directly under the a/c (there's not much of the bezel left directly under it to even trim) and move the a/c down just enough to allow the radio to fit right above it....or do something more in depth, and relocate it completely, either somewhere else on the dash, maybe in my future full length custom console i plan to build to house a subwoofer or two, as well as cup holders etc....or, which i think would be my favorite but the most work, and probably not even worth it because i THINK there's vacuum lines on the controls, is to move it to the overhead console like the same exact control is mounted in my excursion (which controls the rear air). i think i even have a spare excursion console that i could use so it houses the controls like stock and looks 100% factory rather than fiber glassing etc...i'd really like that option, it'd give me more space in the bezel to mount my clarion 1/2 DIN equalizer near the radio (which i probably can't if i leave the a/c in the dash) and it would keep me from possibly putting the a/c in the console, that's a last resort for me i think.
This is sorta neat how they moved it, i'd assume there may be enough play in the harness to move it here without having the cut/extend anything? that's what this thread is for essentially, so i can find that out .. I also don't know if i want to even put the a/c there because I'm not 100% sure yet, but i may bring my console (at an angle/curve) all the way up to that point on the dash where my console build will meet the dash. Not sure if I'm going to stop it below that point and retain the stock pull out cup holders and little cubby, or just remove that completely and bring the console to the bottom of the actual bezel. Looking for any pics of the back of the a/c controls (again, 2004 f350, non digital controls, same as in that last picture above). As well as info on how to go about extending things if it's doable without being over the top work to complete it.
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This is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
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I have checked the fuses on my 2000 f- 350 for the dash lites. They are ok. I have turn signals n all but no dash lites ?
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Every time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
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How to take the panels off? I need to remove the passenger srs module for the light bulb repair. It's a 2003 F350 XLT SWR 4X4.
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2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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I have a 2004 350. Turn signals quit working don't come up on dash either but when I turn the flashers on the left turn signal on come on that's on the dash and the lights. I replaced the turn signal relay that's under the radio. The old one would buzz when I turned the turn signal on but nothing would come up the new one clicks as it should but I'm still not getting turn signals lights on dash nor the light it's self. The flasher is still like it was only the left one comes on.
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