Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - Blinking OD Light And Code P0741
Nov 12, 2013
My buddy has a 2002 F350 CC Longbed with a 7.3. Last night the overdrive light started blinking. He said he drove it today and it takes about a mile or so for the light to come on but then it is a steady blinking. Truck has about 254K miles on it. He said other than the blinking light everything seems normal. How to figure out what this issue may be?
I got AE hooked up on his rig.
When I pull (ALL) codes this is what I get:
When I pull (Current) codes I get this:
I tried to clear the code and the light stopped blinking, but he said it started blinking again on the way home.
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99 F350 7.3l with 4R100 trans. About a month ago I took out a monster trans that had about 60k on it and it was burnt up. No warranty. ..customer bought another monster. After the install when going into 4th the torque converter would instantly lock making it feel as though the truck was falling on its face. Monster had me do some data logging and from the info I provided they determined it had a bad solenoid pack. They sent a new one out...when I went to install the new pack I noticed when I dropped the pan that the fluid was iridescent looking...a bolt for the valve body was in the bottom of the pan and lots of material stuck to the magnets....
Needless to say that trans only lasted about 2 weeks after putting the solenoid pack in. Fast forward to today..got trans number 3 from monster under warranty. After the install everything seemed good. About 30 mins into highway driving the od light starts flashing. ..subsequently the P0741 code. I did put 2 new wire pigtails on the front and rear speed sensors. The pigtails were a ford service part but they were a bit different in design. I am pretty sure the wires are correctly oriented..if not would this cause the issue. I really am leaning towards a bad solenoid pack again. My buddy thinks the TC isn't seated properly....where do I start? Also has an edge programmer on it..but it's been on the same map all this time
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I currently am driving a 2001 F-350 V10 SuperDuty, and recently the battery light was blinking. I replaced the alternator in it, but it didn't work. I thought it was bad so I went and got another and it still didn't work. Turned out that the alternator wasn't big enough. I then went BACK and got a larger alternator, and it still won't work. Now the battery light is solid, and I'm getting absolutely no charge out of the alternator. I checked all the fuses and nothing is wrong. It seems like all the things you think could be wrong are running perfectly fine! What could be wrong. The truck will start, and idle, but will run off the battery only.
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had a problem with their OD light blinking and shift problems. This past week my od light started blinking and when I shifted into drive, it was stuck in overdrive. When I shift into 1st it would go to 2nd and stay there. So basically I had 2nd and overdrive. I started replacing sensors like the VSS, and checking the wiring warness. Took it to a transmission garage and they told me it was toast. Then I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new tranny. After replacing the tranny it did the same thing with the same codes showing. Then I got smart and checked the fuses. Of course it was as simple as a blown fuse causing all the trouble. In my truck it was fuse 23 under the dash. A 20 amp fuse that was listed as engine control. Im not saying that in every case if the OD light starts blinking it's as simple as a fuse but in my case it was, so lesson learned. Always check the fuses first.
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I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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My dad gave his 2005 Ford F-350 truck with the gas 5.4L (?) I drove it home. If i floor it it misfires badly, or if the RPM's get over 3000 it misfires then about 3800 it stops and keeps going. but i can't give it to much gas....
The spark plugs where replaced 2 years ago along with the cat converters. I can hear some very fait manifold gasket leak ...
A few days ago it was raining and it had a bad misfire with blinking CEL. but it never threw a solid CLE. can i still put the codes on it to see what cylinder it is? Are these issue related? Where should i start?
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Blinking instrument panel. When I turn my key on in my 99 F350 power stroke everything inside the cab just starts blinking like crazy motor turns over just fine but it won't start.
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So my right blinker is blinking really fast, after working fine for about a week. Nothing changed. I checked all bulbs and they're working fine. I repeat: ALL BULBS ARE GOOD. Truck has a service body on it with LED brake lights. Thought maybe the LED lights didn't have enough draw for the system to detect a good bulb, but left side works fine. Swapped bulbs from left side to right, still right side blinks fast. I even removed left rear brake light and it still flashes normally.. So not sure what's going on. Light control module??
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My 2002 f350 diesel recently started acting up, the first sign was when my park brake light came on and the chime came on. I mucked around with a few things but still wont go away, while I was doing this a buddy noticed i had no brake lights at all and under further inspection no signals either, not even the clicking noise you usually hear also the cruise control has stopped working as well as the little screen mounted to the roof near the rear view mirror. I am fairly clueless with electrics (I don't even own a multi meter) but i do want to figure this out, i have noticed that fuse 20 was burnt and after replacing it it pops pretty much right when i push my foot on the breaks or signal.
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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Having a problem with my truck and I'm stuck. About 9 months ago my 4wd stopped working. Turn the switch and no light or noise. I took a look at fuses and everything was good there. I let it go but now I need 4wd. Today I checked every fuse and all of them were good. I moved to the relays checked them and they were good but for the heck of it replaced them. Checked for power at the pins. The one that needed power had power. Next I went to the switch had 12 volts there. Pulled switch and test with a multimeter and ohms were good. Went. Down to the motor and tested for power there not power to the motor. Is there anything else I'm missing Esof not working. 2002 f350 7.3 auto....
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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For the last few weeks I have noticed my transmission overheating a bit, nothing bad, but I have just been running around town local so no drives over about 15-20 mins.
Well, Friday night I went out to see a friends band play about 40 mins away, My trans temp climbed steadily the whole way out there, peaking at 226 by the time I got out there. I kinda took my time getting home hopping bars to give the trans a break to cool off.
Did some diagnosis today, first thing I did was unhook the line going to the rear of the transmission and did the bucket flow test. I fired it up and fluid came pouring out of the line which goes into the rear of the trans, nothing really came out of the rear of the trans, it was all out of the line.
So that tells me that its getting flow through the coolers. I didn't measure the amount like some do, but I can tell you it looked like a strong steady flow.
I made sure the fluid levels are proper as well which they are, it was maybe a 1 quart low which shouldn't effect anything. I also inspected the coolers and everything appears to be clean with no airflow restrictions. Took it out for a brief drive again and it climbed up to 147, maybe 5 miles out 5 miles back. Ambient temp is 62 today.
I am getting multiple codes on my Edge Evo which I have had set to stock settings since I bought the truck. Codes I get that concern me relevant to the trans are P0741 and P0743. Both seem to relate to the torque converter.
I feel like my RPMs are a bit to high at highways speeds so I am wondering if I have a TC that is slipping a bit while driving. I did notice a bit of a metallic pearl in the fluid that came out. Aside from that I feel like the trans is shifting ok, though sometimes I have to let off the gas to get it to shift into 4th.
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The problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
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Truck : 2000 F250 XLT A/T 6.8L v10 4x4
Issue : O/D off light is flashing on the shift lever. In a drive gear (R, OD, D2, D1) there is very low power when giving it gas, more so from a stop. In P and N, I can rev the motor with no obvious issues. In O/D, I can't even get forward momentum going from a stop when on a slight incline. When on flat ground and in O/D, flooring the gas only gets me going a few MPH and RPMs don't go above 1500ish. When selecting 1st or 2nd, the truck still struggles a bit from a stop but does get up and going.
What happened leading up to the issue : I was on the freeway driving about 80MPH without cruise control se,t and with O/D on as usual, when the blinking O/D off light caught my attention. Not knowing at the time that this was a transmission problem light, I started pushing and holding on the O/D on/off button to try and get it to stop. Probably about a minute later, I realized I was losing speed even when giving more throttle so pulled over to the shoulder. I shut the truck off and restarted it, noted the Service Engine Soon light was now on, then I put it in O/D and gave it gas but only got going a couple MPH which it sounds like the engine was choking/struggling. I then tried D1 and D2 and, while still struggling a bit from stop, was able to accelerate up to 35+ MPH.
OBDII Codes:
P0743
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Circuit Electrical
P0750
Shift Solenoid A
P0755
Shift Solenoid B
P1747
Pressure Control
Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0443
EvaPorative Emission
System Purge Control
Valve Circuit
P0135
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 1. Sensor 1)
P0155
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 2. Sensor 1)
Troubleshooting : Transmission fluid check looks good (full and red)
Checked fuse 23 of the Central Junction Box
Held a ground wire to bottom of Transmission pan and to the frame while I started the truck, O/D light still flashing
Wiring looks good coming to the plug on the driver side of the transmission
More info:
- No "Service Engine Soon" or blinking O/D off light prior to all this happening.
- I don't believe I'm getting 1st gear. I don't recall if I got my speed up to 30+ MPH while in D1, but while in D2 I never noticed a shift from stop to ~35MPH. At 35MPH, my RPMs were around 2500 I believe.
- While cruising at 35MPH in D2, shifting to O/D results in lost power. I had to stay in D2 all the way home.
To do (I believe):
1. Check shift solenoids (looking for DIY info)
2. Check shift solenoid pack (looking for DIY info)
3. Check TCC solenoid (looking for for DIY info)
It sounds like there are a couple shift solenoids to check as well as a solenoid pack (how best to check these out, I'm still looking for)?
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ive got a 2000 v-10 excursion with 111k. Never had a problem like this before but last week I was driving home an noticed the theft light blinking while I was driving. Got home shut it off. next morning went to start it and nothing! when the doors open it makes a clicking noise under the dash. if I jump it the truck will start right up. If the batt is disconnected them re-connected it will start once until turned off and then nothing until its disconnected again. I ve got an elk hunt in 2 weeks and need to figure it out!
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My Ford 250 Super Duty, it is a 2008 model. I can't get it to start and the anti-theft light keeps blinking. At least i think it is an anti-theft light, a blinking red lock on the instrument panel. I bought this truck from an auction so I don't have a manual, neither do I have a key set with the push button stuff on it. Just 2 electronic keys. Someone suggested unhooking the battery overnight, and someone else suggested pressing the valet button. I found a button under the dash, I have no idea if it is the right one.
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My truck is acting up. Last night when I was parallel parking I noticed the RPM was jumping, I then noticed the OverDrive switch was blinking. I turned off and turned it back on and the issue went away. This morning on my way to work, it did exactly the same and it automatically corrected itself. The overDrive ON/OFF light keeps blinking.
My truck : 7.3 Diesel, Auto trans, 86 K Miles, Super Chip.
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1. About march 1, my check engine light came on- took it to oreileys for a scan and said Speed Sensor A (cannot remember code), I was not overly concerned to fix it very very busy.
*Drove about 800 miles no further issues except the annoying CE light*
2. ABS comes on a few days ago
3. Today the truck, 4 miles from home decides it wont let RPM's get above 2500, and 40mph. It slightly hard shifted once.
Truck has 97000 miles and is a 1999 V10 has NEVER had any tranny shifting issues or engine issues....
4. Check tranny fluid when we get home it does not smell burnt and is red- its not even that warm...
I have read a couple places that a VSS can cause this? But I never noticed my speedometer acting up EXCEPT for the day the CE light came on- which there was a lot of ice and tires were spinning and speedometer said 0.
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