Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 - A/C Clutch Not Staying Engaged
Sep 8, 2013
So I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
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I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
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So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
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I have a 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty ABS light comes on stays on till I shut the truck off and restart it this happens about once or twice a week
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This must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
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And now for something completely different....This just started, Close either door and the dome light and cargo light stay on much longer than they used to. Timed it and they do finally go off after about 1/2 an hour. Everything else seems to be functioning ok. I searched the forums and didn't come across anything the same, however I got the impression that there is some kind of solenoid/switch that controls this function. 2002 f250 XL 4x4 Regular cab.
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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I'm getting a random 'no start' fault which I think is related to a clutch position switch. The dealer tells me the clutch pivot bushing and master cylinder push rod are worn out, which is causing the switch not to close when the clutch pedal is depressed.
1993 F-350 7.3L Diesel 5 Spd 4x4, Std Cab, 8 Box.
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
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My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
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I have a 02 F350 V10 4x4. Tonight I went out to go to a friends house and the truck started fine but when I push in the brake it will not release the lock on the shifter. You can hear a click noise when you push in the brake pedal.
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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2002 F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel.Transmission trouble. Came off interstate - took foot off throttle at yield and hit gas as turn was clear. Did it fast and felt like hit wall. Immediately lost transmission engagement. Trans did not reengage until below 20 MPH. Tried to speed up and disengaged at 20 to 25MPH - just free wheel - engine wine. Went to 1st gear and would come up normally. Shift to 2nd and could get up to 30MPH and probably higher - didn't push. Shift to drive and trans disengage. No trans fluid leakage and level looks good and clean. What to look for? 126K miles.
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
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