Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 Will Not Start In Below Freezing Temps At Random
Dec 18, 2013
I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Turns over just fine but Acts as if a frozen fuel line. I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks in the lines or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that.
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2000 f250 V10 ...
Problem: More often than not when the key is turned to run (?), prior to engaging the starter, the fuel pump does not turn on for its 5 seconds. I have installed a fuel pressure tester gauge to watch the fuel line pressure. It was a little shaky to diagnose because if the line had pressure/fuel from the previous run it will start and run a short time and then die from lack of fuel. Unless the fuel pump activates when the key is turned to run, prior to full start, then there will be no fuel coming from the pump. No start. If you work the key to run a few times until the pump engages its good to go. The truck has never died while driving, once it gets that initial pump activation it runs good until the next start up cycle. When the pump does work it builds up to good "book" pressure and holds it at 39 when the engine is shut off.
We have put off changing the fuel pump for obvious reasons but can not see how it could be the problem since it has never quit once after we get it started. Are we wrong? We know the fuel shut off is on as it will run. We have changed the key lock tumblers, the ignition switch and the fuel pump relay. (behind the radio). Next up is to re-seat all the fuses and relays in the main fuse panel box under the hood. I just read that today on FTE. Is there a test we can do or some engine codes we need to look for? This problem is getting old fast.
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I've been battling this high temp issue for a bit now. Here's the recap on my truck.
2005 F250 6.0
120k miles
Edge insight CTS2
New factory Oil cooler
motorcraft coolant -system flushed
Stock EGR- No leakage
Deltas 3-5 degree apart no A/C on
A/C works great!
-Issue- When I turn the A/C on city on normal driving no loads or towing. The temps have gone up as high as 230 eot 230 etc. Ambient temps 83-90F ....
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Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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2002 F250 V10....
Ambient temp is 4-9 degrees
Step-son borrowed truck. I started it at 9 in the morn and moved it to a different parking spot on street. No problem starting.
Step-son came at 11 and took truck. It started no problem.
He drove it to work. At 5 p.m. would crank, but not start. A jump got it running.
On charger all night. Would not crank this morn. Would not crank even when jumped.
Are we looking at a bad battery or something else?
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Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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My 2002 F250 with the 5.4 (215,000 miles) has a loud tap upon start up, only on the passenger side, heard best in the wheel well. It only lasts about 30 seconds to a minute. It occasionally rears it's head driving around town but only intermittently. Just drove it 275 miles, at 13mpg, truck runs fine, just annoying.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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Truck Specs:
2008 f250 super duty 5.4l
78xxx miles
4x4
Automatic
Issue:
P0300 (random misfire detected)
P0307 (cylinder 7 misfire)
Let's start from the beginning...
I was getting the notorious 5.4l ticking sound. After doing research on this issue. I found that it could be a few different issues including:
Cam Phasers
VCT solenoid(s)
Loud injectors
Valves
Exhaust leak
Loose spark plug
The list could possibly go on, but these being top concerns or issues to look into.
I took it to my mechanic and wanted him to research the ticking problem. This was my primary concern due to it was getting worse over time. I didn't want to do more damage than what was possibly already done. I told him to go ahead and change the spark plugs while you're checking into what's going on. (I know those plugs can break and I didn't want to do that.)
At any rate... the plugs got changed to motocraft brand (I know the trucks can be finicky with the parts you put back into them so I went with the motocrafts to avoid any complications.) After the plugs were changed, he told me that the ticking was caused from a blown exhaust manifold gasket (yay me... not internal parts or anything too serious. Sweet!)
I had to reschedule to get the gasket done, but knowing what it was now I wasn't too concerned about driving it. So I did. The new plugs are also in the truck at this time. I drove it the next day and right away.. I noticed a misfire. Thought maybe the plug was bad. I told my mechanic about it and he said... Sounds like a COP to me.
So I get a new COP. Okay.. easy fix. Installed it and still got a misfire. Told my mechanic and he said get another COP. So I'm thinking.. "Okay.. get a new part to fix a new part.. sounds logical.. lol" so I do what he thinks might be best. I replace the COP with another new one and it's still misfiring. The new cops are also motocraft brand as well.
Okay... next step.. he claims it may be a VCT solenoid issue. At this point I don't care.. I just want my truck fixed. So he replaces the driver side solenoid. Still misfiring..
So after doing some research on the scanner... we locate some issues that are the exact symptoms I'm having. Misfire.. at low rpm.. during cruise control.. and a sudden at idle.
This information states for this drivability issue.. to spray injector cleaner/carb cleaner into the engine and possibly clean it out. Makes sense. He did this as well as changed the fuel filter. Also did a pressure test on the injectors to make sure they were good. They were. After spraying and cleaning it out, it was taken for a test drive and it seemed okay... but not perfect. The next day.. the misfire came back.
He said that if the misfire returns, that I need to contact the dealership and see if there is a pcm update. The dealership said there probably is but can't tell me until the computer is hooked up to it. (Of course there is a charge when it's hooked up) again.. whatever.. I just want it fixed. The truck is scheduled to go in next Wednesday for that. If that doesn't fix it, my mechanic said cam phasers possibly bUT still not sure for sure..
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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I have a 2002 F250 SD V10 4x4, that just started to randomly misfire [does not matter if the vehicle is in motion or in park]. I scanned the OBDII and found pending code P0720 (Output Speed Sensor). The CEL, O/D light, nor the ABS light illuminate. The speedometer functions normally.
This occurred Saturday after we got 12-18" of snow. I cleaned out the driveway, took a short drive (~ miles) & parked the truck (no symptoms). Later we went to 2 stores and then on the way home, the misfire started. The next day the misfire continues.
I have been searching & come up with the same posts that say the issue is not the OSS. It's usually a bad COP or bad wiring @ the OSS. The symptoms are not the same as when I had a COP go bad (only misfired under load between 1500 & 2500 rpm).
Personal issues: My truck does not fit in my garage, it's dark (and usually below 30 F) before I can get to look at it in the evening. Also, we are supposed to get another foot of snow tomorrow night.
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2006 F350 V10 and what was a random noise after sitting for long periods and starting has become a much more common noise, start the truck and just when you're ready to put it in gear it makes a snarling noise for 1/2 a second that first few times I thought was a cat in the radiator fan.
It is completely random when it will do it now hot or cold and sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side of the truck or possibly in the center and haven't been able to have it produce the sound with me outside the truck.
After listening to the sound hundreds of times and comparing it to other things it sounds to me a lot like air in a high-pressure oil system, almost the same sound as my farm tractors with air in the hydraulic systems.... No leaks and all fluids are full and clean, The truck runs like new other than the random start up noise and I don't like not knowing what going on exactly on anything mechanical!
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quick question about tranny Temps. My truck is a 16 F250 CCSB 4x4 6.2. I just moved to North Carolina from Florida. It is 100+ degrees every day and my transmission maintains a range from 196 to 203. I know that is perfectly normal.
We were driving around NC yesterday (unloaded) and the Temps outside were in the high 60's. We were in the truck for a total of 2 hours so everything was up to temp. My transmission was ranging from 190-199. I thought the transmission thermostat keeps the tranny at least 196.
So my question for the cooler weather guys...is it normal for your tranny to get as low as 190 during normal operating temps?
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I have a 2002 f250 4.2 diesel with a 5 speed manual box and i want to put a 7.3 in it. Does it fit?and can i make the 5 speed tranny fit?
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We have been having near zero temps for several days and it occurred to me that there may be some amount of water in the water separator in the rail mounted fuel filter (not enough to send a message, but maybe some amount). I only have 3,000 miles on the truck. So, just wondering if a small amount of water is going to hurt anything in the filter or filter housing if it freezes? Should I drain the filter in freezing weather even though enough water hasn't collected enough to activate a message?
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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My radiator has been leaking very little for some time and it is stock after 250k so im sure it is plugged....my engine has been running 202 .... My tranny only goes over 200 while towing...otherwise if is under 190
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