Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 Truck Wanders All Over Road
May 1, 2016
It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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2000 Super Duty 2wd. My truck has a lot of slop and wanders down the road. My rotors are also warped and after they get warm they shake like crazy. So I plan on new rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, dust caps and rear rotors, calipers and pads for the rear. I will also be doing factory wheels and new tires and shocks all the way around.
My questions is to rebuild the front suspension and do it to last what all will I need? I see some moog kits but I do not think they are complete for what I need. I only have 126,000 miles with a sound motor and tranny so I feel she is worth it. I know how to work on the truck but the suspension is my weak spot. At 126,000 miles I feel it is a good investment
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty v10 with the manual transmission... It has aloud squeak from under the truck when Im slowing down or maintaining a certain speed. The squeak goes away when I accelerate or if I push the clutch in. It does have a vibration to it when im speeding up. And shakes bad sometimes when I let off the clutch from a stop..
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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I just changed out my IAC. Truck is still idling too high. When I squeeze the host to the IAC it idles down. When I unplug the IAC the truck immediately dies.
Does the IAC talk to the the Throttle position sensor? Should this be my next part to change?
2002 F250 5.4L ....
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Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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I have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
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My truck seems like it wanders when driving down the road. Could it be the fact that I haven't gotten used to the electric power steering? The truck is a 2013 F150 screw 6.5 bed 4x4 5.0....
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My truck wanders all over the road especially on the highway. The stealership said everything on the front end looked good and tight. I just recently had the front end aligned by an alignment shop, but the wandering still occurs. Is my last resort to try and tighten/adjust the steering box? I have owned and driven bigger lifted trucks before and they were no where near as bad. I realize this truck isn't meant to drive like a sports car, but it should at least drive in a straight line. I am at a loss and it is becoming very frustrating to drive most times.
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I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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My truck is a 2002 F350 CC dually longbox 4x4 7.3 auto that I bought last fall. On the street it is very well behaved although I suspect it is not giving me as much power as it should be, as compared to my previous 95 powerstroke.
Off road, slow crawling, the throttle is very jerky. Under acceleration it is smooth, but if I try holding a low throttle position, the rpm rises and falls. I am certain this is a bad TPS, and may also be contributing to my perceived low power on the street.
I have googled my brains out and it seems there is a cheap replacement TPS for earlier trucks but the 2002 has the 5 wire combined TPS and IVS, which reportedly is not replaceable without replacing the whole pedal assembly. To complicate matters I have the adjustable pedal assembly
So are there any options other than buying a complete pedal assembly from ford? Can I save some bux and retrofit a non-adjustable pedal assembly? I saw a youtube video where a guy put a newer 6.0 pedal assembly in but he was short on specifics about what exactly he gained doing this.
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I have a 2008 f-250 4x4 extended cab, I picked up a set of black rock steel wheels 17x9. I now have 265 70 17s on my truck. will these wheels work and with what size tires.
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What is the proper tire pressure for these trucks (F250)?
Sidewall says max is 80 PSI.
Door jam says 71 PSI.
This is coming from a guy who has traditionally driven passenger cars and trucks. I've never even gotten CLOSE to advertised max PSI ratings. 71 seems awful close to max PSI.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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