Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 - Parking Lights Stay On When Truck Is Shut Off
Mar 22, 2017
I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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I Have a 2002 F 250 That I recently changed the fuel pump. and now I'm having a tail light problem. when i start the truck, my tail lights and plate lights comes on (dim). if i turn my head lights on the truck stalls out. if i step on the brake or put the truck in reverse it stalls out. if i put it in drive it runs just fine. i checked my fuses and relays and the problem is still there even when the relay and fuse for the lights are out. when i turn the truck off all the light go out.
can't seem to find any info on this problem anywhere.
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I was wondering if there was a DIY mod so I can have my foglights on with my parking lights and my high beams..
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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Parking brake light stays doesn't come on when the parking brake is engaged. The light DOES come on when starting the vehicle and the gauge cluster cycles through its start up procedure. Couldn't find a fuse that would fix my issue...does one exist?
Truck is an '02 F250 w/ 7.3TD and 6 speed manual.
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When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
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My 2011 F250 has no front or rear running lights working, mirror side marker lights not working and fog lights not working. I have checked all fuses including 30amp trailer light fuse and they are good. The fuses in the passenger kick panel are not getting energized.
I replaced the switch with a friends from same truck and no luck there. The headlights, dash lights and turn signals work fine. Here's the kicker, when I back feed 12V to the yellow/blue wire at front running light it turns them all on, including mirror lights. I've switched out relays in the box under hood and that didn't work.
When I pull the switch on dash to turn on the fog lights the indicator in the switch doesn't work either, they are both listed on the same fuse but as I said, the fuses have continuity across the blades but when I test the socket there is no voltage going to them. I have not connected a trailer to see if those are out yet but will do today.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty v10 with the manual transmission... It has aloud squeak from under the truck when Im slowing down or maintaining a certain speed. The squeak goes away when I accelerate or if I push the clutch in. It does have a vibration to it when im speeding up. And shakes bad sometimes when I let off the clutch from a stop..
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It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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I just changed out my IAC. Truck is still idling too high. When I squeeze the host to the IAC it idles down. When I unplug the IAC the truck immediately dies.
Does the IAC talk to the the Throttle position sensor? Should this be my next part to change?
2002 F250 5.4L ....
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Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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I have no 4x4 lights on in cluster when turn the key in the on position and it doesn't engage when I turn my 4x4 selector. And I don't hear anything in the relays .
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Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 Crew Cab. It has the factory style running boards with the lights at each end. None of them where working so I changed the bulbs and still nothing. I decided to follow the wiring to make sure everything was good and found that neither one of the boards are plugged into anything. They both have about a 2' loomed harness with a plug on the end of each board and it is zipped tied to the frame. But there is no wiring nearby to plug it into, I have checked everywhere. I can run extra wiring no problem if I can find out where they are supposed to plug at.
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