2002 F-250 5.4l 4x4 ... I am getting a P0171 code only, with strong fuel smell. No P0174 code. So it has to be something effecting just the one bank? Sprayed engine with starting fluid, no charge in idle. Replaced upstream O2 sensor, no change. Truck was running fine, and then just started this all at once.
View 5 RepliesWhat may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
My truck has been doing this for a while now but it has progressively gotten worse from about three months ago when I went through some deep water. I don't believe it had to much to do with the water, I just think that the water is what didn't deal the situation and lead to the problem becoming more prevalent. But continuing, yesterday it got down into the high 20's and my engine started acting up (rumbling coughing, surging while at/leaving complete stops) and then it finally through a code for once and I head over to the neighborhood AutoZone expecting to get a lean code (because when the engine is acting up really badly I can unplug the fourth cylinder fuel injector without the engine acting any differently) but instead I received the p1152 (bank two lack of switching (rich)) code....
At this point I believe it is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, but without a good diagnostic obd2 reader or a fuel pressure gauge I'm not sure what to do. I'm currently in college, money is low, and I'm trying to take an accurate shot at the part that needs to be replaced so that I don't have to buy more than one part. Of course AutoZone says o2 sensor but I changed both about five months ago.. I've been chasing this diagnosis around for way too long now. (It's on a 2002 ford f250 5.4l super duty)
My truck threw a check engine yesterday, P1151 and P1152. What could be the problem? 04 f350 with 5.4 with 142,xxx on her
View 14 RepliesJust bought a 2002 F-250 Crew Cab. It has the factory style running boards with the lights at each end. None of them where working so I changed the bulbs and still nothing. I decided to follow the wiring to make sure everything was good and found that neither one of the boards are plugged into anything. They both have about a 2' loomed harness with a plug on the end of each board and it is zipped tied to the frame. But there is no wiring nearby to plug it into, I have checked everywhere. I can run extra wiring no problem if I can find out where they are supposed to plug at.
View 14 RepliesI have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
View 11 RepliesI have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.
It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
What could be wrong?
CEL came on last night, OBD code PO420, truck is an 06 f250,5.4? Btw, truck running rough, no power on acceleration, in gear at idle, runs rough....
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 f250 5.4 with codes p0171 and p0174. I have replaced fuel filter, MAF, Checked for vac leaks by smoke and water test.
I don't have a way to check fuel pressure on this thing since it must have been to much trouble to put that test port on the fuel rail!!!
My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.
Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.
I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.
I just purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 It has really high miles on it as it was a landscaping companies fleet truck. I'm sure that it was pretty well serviced as it has 300K miles on it and it's still running pretty decent.
I picked up the truck and I have to get the smog done soon. It idles with what I can only describe as a slight miss and it runs and drives great. seems to have plenty of power for the miles that's on it.
There is no active CEL on but I scanned the OBDII system and found a P0171 Lean bank 1 code in the pending codes list of the scanner. I guess this year engine doesn't have an EGR Valve or DPFE sensor because I've looked high and low for it and there non existent on this engine.
I've checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner all over the place and it makes no difference and all the vacuum lines and connections look okay.
When it's running It does sound like a vacuum leak right behind the top of the plastic throttle body but I can't find it, I don't know if this big *** engine just sucks that much air or what.
Like I said I need to smog this thing soon and I don't want it to fail if it's missing or has another issue. The fuel injectors look new and one coil pack looks like it's a replacement...
I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
2007 E450 Van. Dash light came on. OBD2 reader indicates: P2196 Ford - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch Sensor Indicates Rich
I need to find out which sensor to replace. It looks like I need to replace Bank 1, Sensor 1, but I am not sure where it is located. My guess it's located on the manifold, but I'm not sure if it's driver or passenger side.
A friend says, "Look in the owners manual for the van and find out which cylinder is cylinder number 1. Cylinder 1 is always on Bank 1."
The owner's manual has no indication of where cylinder one is located. I do not have a service manual.
I am not highly technical, but I do think I can replace the sensor myself, or at least I would like to give it a try.
I have a 04 f250 with aprox 95k on it 5.4L I knew I was over mileage for a due oil change I haven't been driving it much it crossed my mind, as I am usually very adamant about changing fluids. I went to check my oil and only a smudge of oil on the dip stick. I know this is not good but the truck runs fine, no noises, no knocking, not a chatter from the valve train. Oil pressure was good everything seemed fine did I get lucky? I know it wasn't good I am not going to let that happen again everyone think I dodged the bullet?
View 9 RepliesMy 1999 f-250 superduty shows overheating after it runs for awhile but it doesn't actually overheat the gauge just shows it. What it does is drops down to four cylinders. Is my heads blown or could it be something else it has 260,000 on the engine.
View 2 RepliesI have an 2003 F250 7.3 Diesel 4wd. Yesterday I knew I was low on fuel but I don't think I ran out of diesel. My gauge was above the "E". 50 miles left on my overhead readout, but you never know. All of a sudden the truck misfires and is running very rough before it dies on me. I get it towed home.
Thinking that it possible I ran out of fuel and screwed up my fuel pump, I bought a new fuel pump and fuel filter, installed them and I have the same symptoms. I am guessing I lost my prime, who knows. I have 180,000 miles on it and haven't ever had engine problems.
I bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-250. I have checked power to the rear harness and all is good except for the tail/running lights.
Is there a fuse for the tail lights? I have checked the manual and don't see one called out. And the relays under the hood are labeled stop lights/turn signals and those are working fine.
I will see if I can trace the brown wire from the rear harness backwards, but it may be a simple fuse.
I have a 2005 ford f250 with the factory installed brake controller and towing package,until recently all was well,I tow a fairly large travel trailer and last time I hooked the trailer to the truck I noticed the running lights on the trailer were lit, I checked to make sure that I did not have the parking lights turned on or the headlights. I did find posts about the running lights not working and was surprised to find there is a relay somewhere on the central junction fuse block that was integral to the cfb and not user serviceable. Could my problem be that this relay failed in the closed position or am I not going in the right direction in my quest to find this problem. Also looking for a diagram of where this relay is located on the central junction fuse block? I would also consider doing a work around solution rather than having to replace the entire fuse block.
View 7 RepliesHave a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
View 6 Replies