Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 - Driver Side Front Power Window Will Only Go Down And Not Up
Jun 6, 2009
here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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On my way home today I heard wind coming in around my drivers side power window. Its not seating itself straight in the weather stripping. The window is tilted toward the front of the truck. Do I need a new regulator? Or maybe re- epoxy glass to bracket? The window still operates, its just crooked. Also I haven't had those door panels off before..
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My drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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Cat like noises coming from front driver side tire .. honestly sounds like a cat ..it gets louder the faster I go ... what it could be ?
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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1999 f250 passenger window went down but will not go up. Neither switch will make it go up. I was wonder if both switch could have went bad? Any way to test a switch?
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I have a 1999 f250 crew cab. About 6 months ago my drivers side window quit working in the up position(lucky me) and last week I got around to fixing it . I just ordered a new window motor instead of the whole regulator and installed it and it worked perfect for 4 days and today it suddenly quit again. What would cause a window motor to go out again so quick? Everything else seems to be fine and there is power to it so I'm assuming it's the motor.
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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I have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
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So today pulling out of the gas station I turned my steering wheel to the left and I heard a high pitch squeal from the drivers side. It wouldn't do it again unless I was just creeping, nothing going down the road. I did a few searches on here but they all are if the truck is moving say 30 mph or better. I know I need to replace my ball joints. 99 F250, V10, 4X4, extended cab.
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The driver's side mirror on my '06 250 (tow, heated, power, signal) got cracked... and of course whoever did it didn't stick around!!! Two questions...
Is it possible to replace just the glass? Or am I looking at replacing the entire unit?
Would you have a part number, or a link to a good online catalog?
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Have a 15 250 diesel and my drivers side door has a rattle in it. Seems to be coming from around the area were the mirror buttons are. Removed that little panel and applied some silicone around the edges and seemed to work for a bit then back to noise. Seems to go away when cab heats up good or warm outside.
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