Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 - Clunk In Front End / Felt In The Floor And Steering Wheel
Mar 19, 2017
I have a 02 F250 4x4 5.4. As I drive and when pulling into a driveway I hear a clunk that can be felt in the floor and the steering wheel. I've replaced the wheel bearings and seals, shocks, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends at the gear box and "right hand inner". The other two tie rods are tight and so is the track bar. I cannot duplicate the sound if I jack it up and move parts around with a pry bar. I can however move the steer box sector shaft upwards about an 1/8. I've adjusted the screw but it didn't do anything. Could it be the steer box or the springs? I've even mounted a GoPro underneath but everything moves and I can't tell why it is.
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2002 Ford F250 4x4 Superduty Lariat (4 door). Just changed the locking hubs to a new set of Warn manuals. I began to periodically hear what sounds like a rumbling/bearingish/howling kinda sound. Happens when you hit a bump at any speed...then howls till you hit another bump..goes away..then process repeats. Come to a complete stop, and the sound usually goes away till you hit another bump. The hubs are "free" at this time.
Heres the weird thing...when the noise starts...I switch it into 4 wheel drive on the dash...the sound instantly goes away. Click it back outta 4 wheel drive (hubs are still unlocked this whole time) and the sound is gone. drive some more down the road, maybe hit a slight bump, and the sound returns. Switch it back into 4x4...sound instantly goes away. Its not really in 4 wheel drive, cause the hubs aren't locked in...but that cures it till I take it back out. What could be causing this howling ? Its getting worse, and you can feel a slight vibration in the floor now when its doing it.
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2007 F250 4WD 5.4l ... when I turn sharply in either direction I am getting a light clunk sound similar to when you are in 4WD on blacktop and try turning. The engine also seems to wanna stall when I cut the wheel too sharp.
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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The other day I got in my truck and started down the driveway when I realized I had no brakes, I slowly backed up and parked it. I haven't driven the truck for approx. 2 weeks and it seemed fine then. The master cylinder is full, there are no signs of leakage from wheel cylinders or lines. Today I unscrewed the left front zert and no fluid came out. My pedal goes all the way to the floor.... Whats going on, and if its a easy fix?
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So now, what I'm noticing is a bit of a clunk in the steering. It's minor, very minor... but like any problem they usually start that way. The sound is very faint, you can't hear it under the truck, only slightly in the cab but you can feel it in the steering wheel, not so much when driving but when sitting still in a parking spot it's pretty obvious if you rotate the wheel back and forth. You can also feel it in the floor. Sometimes I'll notice this if I hit a bump while I'm driving.
Here's what I know, if you grab the tie rod, either end, you get a slight bit of rotation. Not just one end moving, but the whole thing has a small amount of forward back rotation (I'm not sure if this is normal) I had my girlfriend turn the steering wheel while I checked different components and there didn't seem to be any left right play on the tie rods. The boots look good on the tie rods ends, pic included, looks of similar quality of drivers side.
Then the kicker, here's where I noticed the gobs of grease on the top end drag link, pic also included. This was the last link I looked at, and I guess least expected.
So I guess I'm thinking this drag link is bad, but this is my first stop on the advice train. I wiped off the boot that was covered in grease on the drag link and it looked like its in fine enough condition but I also seriously doubt the shop that added the leveling kit just decided to slob grease all over the outside of this drag link boot. I have my truck oil undercoated before every winter but, that was some bit ago, and this looked more like grease to me.
Truck background: 2012 F250 6.7, I'm at 42,000 miles, 34in tires for most of that, and more recently added a 2 inch leveling kit (40,000 miles) and replaced the suspension all around and added a dual stabilizer. I had some noise coming from the drivers side wheel-well a while back and found that one of the end links on the sway bars was simply loose. Tightened up and all good to go. At 30,000 I got some death wobble. Replaced tires, the stock stabilizer had also gone bad, and had an alignment. Everything good since, but I'm thinking some of these problems now might be remnant of the bad tires.
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I took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
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I have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
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Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
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While I was trying to park, I heard a clunk, wheels stayed in the same position. The steering wheel is loose as hell, it literally feels like its buttered up and wont turn the wheels at all, what to buy to fix it? I am thinking I just need a new gearbox....
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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just bought this f250 seems to walk on the road alot, had it looked at has new balljoints, he says everything seems tight except there is lots of play at the gearbox, is it recommended to have it rebuilt or buy a reman, was told that even the reman seems to be the same way
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My 2010 6.4 F250 seems has a loose steering wheel. The steering of the truck hasn't changed nor has there been uneven wear on the tires. It doesn't drift if I let the steering wheel go. Had the front end inspected and was told it's all good under there.
YET, my actual steering wheel is loose. I can grab the wheel and wiggle it front to back and side to side. It FEELS like the bolts that hold the steering wheel to the column are loose. What was the cause/repair? Is this something I can repair myself or a local shop? Or is this a dealer fix?
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I have a F250 SD with a 6.0 diesel. My steering wheel is loose. I tested and know for sure is not a problem inside the cabin. Fallow the line thru the linkage to the steering box by the left front wheel. I found an adjustable switch there. Just on top of the steering box. It has a lock nut that must be loosen to adjust what it looks like a hex. Very hard to reach. I have watch some Youtube videos but on different vehicles.
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I've got an 04 f250 4x4 crew cab. I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides and also the drag link. My alignment was off from the bad ball joints so I had it aligned after I did all of this. Now the steering is really weird. Its like something is to tight. I can barely keep the truck straight because every time I barely move the wheel I seem to be going one way or another and getting it straight is nearly impossible to the point I look like a drunk driver. I can turn the wheel to go around a curve and let go of it and it will stay that way until I turn it back. It won't return itself. I'm kind of lost.
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My 2002 250 just got ball joints, bushings, sway arms, 4 wheel alignment and new tires to top it all off. Did All this to correct the shakes, shimmies, popping and grinding in the front end. Now they say I need a steering stabilizer up front. Does any other than ford make a bolt on one and haw much and where can I get one.
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I have a 2004 superduty 250 4x4 with the 6.0. I am having a violent shake in the steering wheel mostly and can feel it in throttle at about 45 to 60 and at 72 there is s growel. Have changed tires, wheels checked all ball joints tie rods wheel bearings ujoints. Don't matter brakes on or off, od on or off nothing changes it. I really don't know what else to check.
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I had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
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So I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
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I have been having trouble with my 2002 F250 SD, the steering at low RPM is next to impossible.. If i put it into N I can rev the engine and it gets "easier" but not very. I do not want to replace the pump and find out that it wasn't the problem...
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I have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
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