Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 2wd Leveling Kit - Front End Sagging So Low?
Jul 5, 2011
I recently purchased a 2002 F250 Regular cab long bed 2wd. I'm tired of the front end sagging so low, so I've been looking into a leveling kit. I was wondering whether I should go with 2" or 1.5" for the kit. I tow about 2000 lbs. 3-4 days a week and do not want the truck to look like it is squatting too badly. However, I really would like it too look more level.
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I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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My 2002 F250 is knocking loose the front end assembly--the gasket is worn out. So I was shopping around and was considering a beefed-up front end assembly.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
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2002 Ford F250 4x4 Superduty Lariat (4 door). Just changed the locking hubs to a new set of Warn manuals. I began to periodically hear what sounds like a rumbling/bearingish/howling kinda sound. Happens when you hit a bump at any speed...then howls till you hit another bump..goes away..then process repeats. Come to a complete stop, and the sound usually goes away till you hit another bump. The hubs are "free" at this time.
Heres the weird thing...when the noise starts...I switch it into 4 wheel drive on the dash...the sound instantly goes away. Click it back outta 4 wheel drive (hubs are still unlocked this whole time) and the sound is gone. drive some more down the road, maybe hit a slight bump, and the sound returns. Switch it back into 4x4...sound instantly goes away. Its not really in 4 wheel drive, cause the hubs aren't locked in...but that cures it till I take it back out. What could be causing this howling ? Its getting worse, and you can feel a slight vibration in the floor now when its doing it.
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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I have a 02 F250 4x4 5.4. As I drive and when pulling into a driveway I hear a clunk that can be felt in the floor and the steering wheel. I've replaced the wheel bearings and seals, shocks, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends at the gear box and "right hand inner". The other two tie rods are tight and so is the track bar. I cannot duplicate the sound if I jack it up and move parts around with a pry bar. I can however move the steer box sector shaft upwards about an 1/8. I've adjusted the screw but it didn't do anything. Could it be the steer box or the springs? I've even mounted a GoPro underneath but everything moves and I can't tell why it is.
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I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
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I have a 99 v8 with a 8" lift. I just added a front leveling (mini spring pack) to replace the lifting block (death trap). Anyways after I installed the 2" spring pack and removed the 1.5" block the truck will not go into 4wd. Did I do something wrong? I did not unhook anything. I just unbolted the spring and shocks, lowered the axle down, then installed the new springs. By the way it has the warren aftermarket manual hubs (lock or free). I can hear the t-case engaging and the light says its in 4wd.
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I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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I had my leveling kit installed today. Bilstein 2" leveling coils, adjustable track bar, 4" rear blocks, and shocks front and rear.
I have 295/70/18 tires on stock wheels that didn't rub anywhere before. Now at full lock to the left the drivers side tire just barely rubs on the radius arm. How is that possible? I was planning on getting 35s soon when these wear out but it seems like those would rub even worse.
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2015 F350, Want to do a leveling kit. Are the spacers good enough or should I do the track bar relocation too?
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Put in 2.5" leveling blocks under front coil springs. Now I hear a clunk nearly every time I turn to the right. Why this might be?
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I have a 2002 f250 4.2 diesel with a 5 speed manual box and i want to put a 7.3 in it. Does it fit?and can i make the 5 speed tranny fit?
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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At work weve got an 02 F250 Lariat CC, and the overhead console has gone out. I looked in the owner's manual, and there was no fuse listed for the overhead console. Is there anything that I can do to fix it, or should we just go out and buy a new one?
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
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