Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 E350 Start To Flatten Out And Smoke Out Of Exhaust During Acceleration
Jul 16, 2016
I had a post a couple of months ago about this E350 van I purchased with the 7.3. It would leave me stranded every few weeks and I replaced the injector oil pressure sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This truck has a intermittent running problem that cannot be pinned down to hot or cold.
It runs and idles well but sometimes during acceleration it will start to flatten out and smoke out the exhaust. Giving more accelerator pedal powers through the flat spot and the truck runs smooth. It does not do it every time. It does it hot or cold, wet or dry, city or highway, If this was a gas engine I would be replacing the fuel pump or checking a fuel starvation issue but the white smoke tells me that it has unburned fuel.
A cylinder contribution test passes fine. I monitored engine data with a Snap On Verus pro and compared oil pressures with another 03 7.3 I have and they are too close to the same. It starts fine, no issues there. It may take off great one time and buck and smoke the next. I swapped out the throttle position sensor with the other 7.3 and no change. I swapped out the injector control module and no change.
I've thought about injector Orings but I would think the problem would be consistent. I've changed engine oil, checked fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, and drained the fuel system to be sure no water is in the separator. This engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. If you floor the accelerator in park it will rev up, flatten out, smoke and buck for about 2-3 seconds, and then take off like normal. I pulled a trailer with it a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed at all. I have a 6.5 GM that seems to have more power than this.
I thought maybe a sticking injector and I added a half gallon of two cycle oil to the fuel to see if that might work. It hasn't. It just seems like it is flooding at a certain rpm and clears itself after a couple of seconds. There are no codes being thrown in the pcm. I am at a loss.
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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I have a E350 5.4 with 200,000 miles and it ran great before winter, this spring I fire it up and it got a miss I drive it anyway it starts to clear up and now the 1289 code. Everything looks fine coolant engine temp. I wonder if you can bypass the Cylinder Head Temp sensor. I am thinking the engine management is causing the miss to cool the engine.
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Got a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
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2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
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I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
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I have a 06 6.0 Powerstroke 6 Speed every time I get on it or even try to get going I have no power and I have pure black smoke blowing out the exhaust somebody told me to change the fuel filters which I did which they were pretty nasty then after I did that I seem to still have the same problem so then they told me to check the EGR valve put injector cleaner in it to clean the injectors which I have not done a gr or injector cleaner yet just wanted to know, what it could be or what I can do to prevent the black smoke I have no power either...
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My Uncle has a 1999 F250 with 260K miles. Engine, fuel and exhaust systems have never been touched. Saturday he pulled his 26 foot horse trailer throughout WA with no problems. Sunday he went to take the truck to town and noticed that he suddenly had a lack of power, and some smoke (possibly blue-ish) coming from the exhaust. He has been told "injectors" by a couple people, "turbo" by some, and "injector harness/valve cover gasket" by others.
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My truck is a 2000 7.3 doesn't smoke on start up but once it gets to temperature it does. I'm not going through any antifreeze, just oil and it's coming out the exhaust. The truck still runs great starts right up every morning without being plugged in. Any opinions?
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I have installed a delete kit and a H&S chip on my 2009 F350 6.4 powerstroke , I installed the mild tune and run in street level. When I accelerate fast from 20 to 70 it puts out a little black smoke but as soon as I let off to maintain speed it starts blue smoke really thick and runs rough , it will eventually stop after 5 or so miles but if I accelerate it will puff blue each time for a bit longer. What could be the issue?
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I have a 2008 6.4L F-250 and occasionally when I come to a stop I can see a faint white smoke coming out from under the truck and the hood. The smoke has a heavy diesel exhaust smell. When I step on the pedal nothing comes from the exhaust and it does not happen all the time. What is going on?
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My 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
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I just bought a 2002 v10 crew cab, everything great form the first 3 months, but then my coolant sensor stopped working, changed it, and the same thing! Only works a couple of times, and the truck started to rough idle a little, and now I have black smoke coming out of the exhaust!
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I recently purchased this truck and have towed a couple of times with it. It has 98,000 miles and I do not know if the automatic transmission fluid has been changed. Should I have it flushed or drop the pan and change it? I have a lift so doing the change is no problem, although it might be worth it to pay a transmission shop to do it.
Also, I hear what appears to be like a heat shield rattle or something that sounds kinda like an exhaust leak during loaded acceleration. What to look for to locate the noise? One last question, the air bag light is on sometimes then off sometimes. Any known air bag light issues? I love the truck, hate the gas mileage!
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I had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
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I have a 2002 f250 powerstroke 7.3, while driving it smokes pure white smoke and feels like its loading up and will start shaking if I floor it, it will rev slowly popping like its loaded up then cleans out runs good for a 1/4 mile than same thing. My temp gauge stopped working and it just seemed to get worse. Stuck it on a scanner and it didn't have any codes but was saying the engine temp was -211f. I got a new sending unit didin't fix any of the problems.
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i have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
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Is it common for the exhaust to have a periodic high pitch tinny sound?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 50 or time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times. I have good batteries and a charger on it working along, 3-4 trys in 5-10 second burts or longer if it doesnt lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. 2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml..
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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